Flighty when hitting certain bumps

I dont post on here often and im not one to claim to know much but what i can tell you from my experiences with jeeps is this.

The so called nut that your mechanic told you he tighten is not suppose to ever be touched that is controlling the backlash in your steering box and there is NO possible way to set it correctly when in the jeep because it is set when using an inch pound torque wrench on the sector shaft as you turn the sector shaft you keep tightening that bolt until your at spec. this is never to be adjusted after set from factory you are suppose to get the box rebuilt or replaced. yes guys adjust that screw myself as well! and i learnt that it ruined my box as well.

My 2012 was having similar issues to what you are feeling, over certain terrain or bumps the steering would react weird at time fighting me and making it exhausting to drive always correcting it and what not...

first had a bad tie rod, then i had alignment done, balanced and rotated tires, bought all new balljoints and wheel bearings and u joints, dropped a shit ton of money and didnt get anywhere and after lots of research and talking to folks they said hey tighten your steering box! ok sounds easy enough read up on how to do it and went for it... it made the "play" in the wheel go away but wasnt so tight that it wouldnt return to center on its own and thats whay they all said to do!

This lasted about 3 weeks then i had play again so they said tighten it more and again then it started to stick and not return and you get the point... I got a brand new mopar box for free sometimes its who ya know not what you know haha put it in lasted 4 wheeling trips and it had the bad clunk and what not... I am not easy on my stuff so yeah ended up just going hydro assist.


So if your wheels are balanced good
tie rods all tight
trac abr bushings good and tight
balljoints good
wheel bearings/ujoints are good
alignment is good

only thing left in the system is your steering box/pump

anyways just take it for whats its worth not saying this is your problem just trying to help
 

toxicwaste29

New member
The steering wheel doesn't return to center I figured it was more of a caster to begin with. The box was adjusted maybe two or three months ago and the steering hasnt loosend up yet. Am I able to lossen the nut almost entirely then go through and tighten the nut back to specs?
 

jeeeep

Hooked
View attachment 120380 View attachment 120381 View attachment 120382


Money is tight however I can spend the money for it to be done right. I did close up pictures so you could see everything however also can do a far away picture showing everything at once if needed. Also can you please tell me where the tension nut is on the steering box and also is there any way of knowing if I set it back to factory settings (torque or number of threads showing)

I know I know dual SS it was a gift so it stays.

Looks like your pitman arm is turned/adjusted too far driver side and it's hitting the frame rail, guessing it doesn't return to center?

IMO seems like there are too many bad "fixes" done to figure out where to start and you don't have the mechanical skills or understanding to undertake the advice given so far to help you get started on solving the issues.

I wouldn't go back to the shop you've been using but you should find another shop to solve and fix it before you waste more money in guessing.

Maybe another member can help identify a good shop for you to go to.
 

toxicwaste29

New member
I have the mechanic knowledge to work on it. The pitman arm couldn't hit the frame rail if it tried because the nut will pass under it. I think its just the angle of the picture. I took another one and will upload it later. If the track bar and drag link are parallel then its just not clicking in my mind why I'll need to flip it with only about 3-3.5" of lift.
 

TheStick

Member
If the track bar and drag link are parallel then its just not clicking in my mind why I'll need to flip it with only about 3-3.5" of lift.

At stock height, your track bar and drag link are not only parallel to each other, they are relatively parallel to your axle as well. The taller you go, the steeper the angle they will be sitting at. This steep angle WILL cause handling issues and a drag link flip or dropped pitman arm WITH a track bar relocation bracket will help to correct this geometry issue.

It was explained here.
 

toxicwaste29

New member
Ooohhh I'm an idiot. I misread it and thought they are suppose to be parallel. Okay I'll flip it. Sorry all who helped
 
Last edited:

toxicwaste29

New member
Are there any drag link flip kits that do not include a drag link bar? I already have a RK drag link bar. Also what is the difference between the track bar relocation brackets? Some are listed around $100 and some are only around $30 and the brackets look different for example the synergy compared to jks.
 

JKbrick

Active Member
The JKS is just a weld on bracket, no drag link. I'll post a pic from my phone it's not on my iPad for some reason
 

olram30

Not That Kind of Engineer
Are there any drag link flip kits that do not include a drag link bar? I already have a RK drag link bar. Also what is the difference between the track bar relocation brackets? Some are listed around $100 and some are only around $30 and the brackets look different for example the synergy compared to jks.

Is your rk drag link able to be flipped?
 

spinuck

New member
He said he replaced the track bar, is it possible that caused some "toe out "? Maybe that's causing the jeep to wander on bumps or unlevel surface.
 
Trac bar has no effect on the teo setting only the relationship to the axle under the jeep so trac bar can pull the axle to the side but your tow is still in spec would have to change the tie rod bar or center link to effect the toe


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
He said he replaced the track bar, is it possible that caused some "toe out "? Maybe that's causing the jeep to wander on bumps or unlevel surface.

No. The tie-rod on a JK is mounted to the knuckles independently and the installation of a track bar will not effect it.
 

spinuck

New member
He said he replaced the track bar, is it possible that caused some "toe out "? Maybe that's causing the jeep to wander on bumps or unlevel surface.

Oops, i meant tie rod. He said he replaced it. Maybe it wasnt the correct length?
 

toxicwaste29

New member
I installed a drag link spacer and flipped my rk drag link; I also installed the track bar relocation bracket. The steering has been a whole lot better and it isn't flighty over bumps anymore. Sometimes it will happen but it is a rarity now. Thanks all for the help.
 
Top Bottom