Gascap and CEL...a different problem

[NFRs2000NYC]

Hmm...800 miles should be more than enough..maybe take it to your local Jeep dealer for an inspection, so they can scan and hard clear any codes that are stopping the emissions scan.

 

[loscann48]

Hmm...800 miles should be more than enough..maybe take it to your local Jeep dealer for an inspection, so they can scan and hard clear any codes that are stopping the emissions scan.

Noooo, not a local Jeep dealer...any thing but that! The last time my Jeep was at the dealer was April of 2013...the day I signed the paperwork and free her for the dealers. Unfortunately I may have to but the bullet and head there. My registration expires the same day as my emissions (in 11 days) and I can't renew without passing.

 

[jeeeep]

damn, another small leak or the epoxy didn't set properly and still has a leak? you could do a smoke test leak but I don't think any of the autoparts stores have smoke machiens for use.

you could call some shops and find out how much for a evap smoke test, at least you'll find out where it's leaking.

 

[sipafz]

It's been my experience and understanding that once the CEL comes on it stores the code(s). They stay stored until they are cleared by a device or by disconnecting the battery. The stored code(s) will not go away even after the CEL shuts off on its own and miles driven after has no impact unlike a TPMS. After a battery disconnect the emission sensors should reset immediately. If the don't then they are not working properly or something is triggering them. My advice is to disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes, reconnect and check for codes.

 

[Moochie]

In my case it was the emission control monitors that were slow to complete their self testing.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/obd_monitor_not_ready.htm

 

[jeeeep]

ECU reset from quadratec:

1. Disconnect the battery by removing the positive battery cable. Remember, the positive battery cable.

2. Ground the positive cable to the negative cable for 30 seconds to erase the electric charge in the capacitors.

3. Reconnect the positive cable to the battery.

4. Turn the key to on but do not start.

5. Turn the headlights on.

6. Turn the headlights off.

7. Turn the key off.


The ECU has now been reset to its factory settings. For the next 50 warm-up periods the ECU will re-learn the engine and driving habits for your driving conditions and the newly installed parts.

 

[loscann48]

Thanks for the info and suggestions from those who have fought this fight. I may have it this time. My Torque OBDII wouldn't clear the codes but the Superchips Flashpaq did (but reset the drive cycle) All codes associated with the Evap system have now seemed to clear and now I need to wait for my O2 sensor to complete its test cycle. I'm starting to think this might be more than a leak in the evap system though, so we will see. When I cleared the codes and the ran a system check, I received a new code... Don't remember the code but it was "right headlight lowbeam voltage". Never seen that one before and haven't done anything with my lights in over a year.

 

[jeeeep]

Thanks for the info and suggestions from those who have fought this fight. I may have it this time. My Torque OBDII wouldn't clear the codes but the Superchips Flashpaq did (but reset the drive cycle) All codes associated with the Evap system have now seemed to clear and now I need to wait for my O2 sensor to complete its test cycle. I'm starting to think this might be more than a leak in the evap system though, so we will see. When I cleared the codes and the ran a system check, I received a new code... Don't remember the code but it was "right headlight lowbeam voltage". Never seen that one before and haven't done anything with my lights in over a year.

if you have LED lights you'll get that code, I've had it since replacing the stock headlights with LED

 

[TonyViv]

I had the same cracked piece. what worked for me was taking the inside of a pen(the ink tube) and cutting off about an inch and half off the top where there was no ink and pushed in the holes to reconnect the plastic. The OD was the same as the ID of the nipple. Pushed it in was tight and didn't need any sealant.. Been like that for a year with no codes and if it breaks easy fix again.


Tony

 

[loscann48]

I had the same cracked piece. what worked for me was taking the inside of a pen(the ink tube) and cutting off about an inch and half off the top where there was no ink and pushed in the holes to reconnect the plastic. The OD was the same as the ID of the nipple. Pushed it in was tight and didn't need any sealant.. Been like that for a year with no codes and if it breaks easy fix again.


Tony

Great thinking MacGyver. My fix wasn't as cool but it worked. I used the JB Weld putty, it set like steel.

 

[TonyViv]

JB weld was my first thought but was afraid it might mush into the hole or I wouldn't be able to fix it if it didn't work. With more thought, Im thinking our ideas could mix.. Use a very small piece of tube just long enough to act as a sleeve and allow the plastic parts of the tank to touch and then use the JB to make a permanent fix... maybe

 

[thombull]

I found that the part broke because the line runs below the emergency brake cables and during full flex they pulled on the line causing it to break..... So do yourself a favor and run the line above the emergency brake cables before you put it back together.

 

[TonyViv]

I will definitely look into rerouting it...

As an afterthought, I wonder since it is an emission part if it would be covered by the mandatory 8 year 80000 warranty?

Tony

 

[thombull]

I've seen others have success with taking it to the stealership for the repair under warranty..... But if you did like I did when you followed instructions while installing a lift.....make sure that the bracket that holds the emergency brake cables in place is installed. So they don't say that it broke because of something you modified or removed.