Genrights jk elite kit

mastrcruse

New member
I've been looking into the Elite kit and a few things I've found..

They list that the kit comes with basic coilovers, however, the newer kits now come with IBP coilovers. So less tune than Bypass/Coilover setup but, from what I've read, more tuning available than "ordinary" coilovers.
You don't have to use RockJock axles, however, they obviously "strongly" recommend them.
As mentioned, you have to cut into the tub and switch fuel cells. GR did confirm that the 4 door fuel cell will allow for .5-1" of stretch. They recommended that, if someone wanted more, the 2 door stretch tank can be used on the 4 door with a few modifications to the mounting hardware.
MSRP is $12,000 but can be purchased from other places for around $10.5-11k


My thoughts as I decide between the Elite, DTD, and other options....
1) Elite is overpriced but can be shipped to your door step for someone local to install. Stupid amount of money from local installers being quoted because, as stated in prior responses, no one really installs these.
2) DTD: Gives 14" of travel and is cheaper, however, some question whether they can use larger coilovers and the durability of the cantilever parts. Most don't mention that SEVERAL people run this with only the occasional "gripe" about noise.
3) The third option is Dixie offroad's setup. Dixie's setup look almost like a spitting image of the Elite but uses Fox shocks and has a Bypass/Coilover setup. They will not ship to your doorstep and are the ones that install it (only). The price is more reasonable than the Elite installed


Being totally honest, I've tried to talk myself out of the DTD system (don't ask..not sure why haha). I've heard MAYBE 2 complaints about noise and MAYBE 2 additional complaints about maintenance of the cantilever. Reviews say that you SHOULD be able to to get smoother/more travel out of a 4 link rear vs. the cantilever but I still cannot find one person that actually puts the ELITE/Dixie 4 link setups against the DTD. I've tried asking several times what the pro/cons comparing the Elite setup 3/4 link vs. the DTD setup but don't get any responses. Question about larger coilovers, I believe, has been answered since I thought I read Mel's JKU runs 2.5 or 3" coilovers on the race jeep?

Overall...Its REALLY hard to talk myself out of the DTD and with the XD60 going up front, paired with a UD60 rear...I think it'll do 110% of anything I throw at it. I just don't see any need to spend an extra $10-15k installed for the Elite system.

**Much of my information comes from piecing what I've read and conversations with Evolution, Dixie, and Genright together.
 
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highoctane

Caught the Bug
Why is the use of larger coilovers on the DTD in question? Mel Wade runs the King 2.0 coilovers and 3.0 bypass shocks on Evo 1's suspension. What more could you want? I've seen people ask about running 2.5 coilovers, Mel has said it could be done, but isn't necessary on a JK. Evo 1 is a 5500lb race proven JK. How many Jeep JKs out there with the Genright suspension have completed the Baja 1000, Vegas to Reno race, multiple KOH races, and whatever else Mel has put Evo 1 through?
 
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mastrcruse

New member
Why is the use of larger coilovers on the DTD in question? Mel Wade runs the King 2.0 coilovers and 3.0 bypass shocks on Evo 1's suspension. What more could you want? I've seen people ask about running 2.5 coilovers, Mel has said it could be done, but isn't necessary on a JK.


I agree. Comparing to the kits, all of them use 2.5" coilovers and the DTD uses 2.0. When you are comparing kits and doing research, you look at the differences and question why. No need for them, as you mention, but it was a question that I had answered by Evo...and I received the same response especially with bypasses combo. I thought I saw that Mel runs larger coilovers on the race jeep (evo 1? I think) with the DTD system.
 
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highoctane

Caught the Bug
As fas as maintenance on the cantilever system, it has more moving parts, but it's not a complicated system. It uses heim joints on all the cantilever links, and greasable bushings on the cantilever bell cranks themselves. The heims are basically maintenance free. Check them for play periodically, wipe them down after trail runs to remove dirt from the ball. They are self lubricated teflon lined heims. The cantilever bell crank bushings are greasable. Keep them greased and they shouldn't wear out any faster than a johnny joint.

The DTD is really the best off the shelf suspension out there. I take the kids to school in it and ride comfortably. It's smooth and takes turns like a sports car. Almost no body roll. When I want to hit the trails I can take rough fire roads at ludicrous speed to get to the trail head, air down, and rock crawl with more flex than I've seen from almost any other Jeep out on the trails. No cutting of the body. No relocation of the gas tank. Tons of travel, lots of clearance, and low suspension height, even on 40s.
 
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professorkx

New member
I don't have experience with JK parts from Genright, but I have used their TJ brackets to convert a 1978 CJ5 to 3-link/4-link with the front axle moved forward 4 inches and the rear moved back 6 inches. Their brackets are good quality, and I would buy from them again. I had not done a linked conversion, so used Genright to give me a head start, but will build my own brackets next time. As noted by others, if you are not a builder, you are going to drop an equal amount for labor, so there are better options...
 

mastrcruse

New member
Curiosity got the best of me and I called Dixie about the 14" bypass/coilovers setup somewhat like genrights. $26k plus taxes installed with you providing the axles. Not sure if the DTD's noise and performance is $15k inferior to the genright lol. They talked highly of the DTD setup with the 2 comments being that there is more noise on the cantilever setup and a setup like theirs/genrights would have better geometry in the rear. They were not saying that DTD had bad geometry just that the 4 link was better.
 
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highoctane

Caught the Bug
Curiosity got the best of me and I called Dixie about the 14" bypass/coilovers setup somewhat like genrights. $26k plus taxes installed with you providing the axles. Not sure if the DTD's noise and performance is $15k inferior to the genright lol. They talked highly of the DTD setup with the 2 comments being that there is more noise on the cantilever setup and a setup like theirs/genrights would have better geometry in the rear. They were not saying that DTD had bad geometry just that the 4 link was better.

My Evo Lever doesn't make any noise driving on the street. I hear noise from the Johnny joints on the control arms, and if the sway bar bushing get dust in them they start to squeak. Keep the bell crank bushings greased and they are quiet. As far as geometry, the DTD has 14" of bind free suspension travel. Their better geometry is just something to brag about on paper that doesn't necessarily equate to better performance on the trail.


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Irish JK

Caught the Bug
I agree. Comparing to the kits, all of them use 2.5" coilovers and the DTD uses 2.0. When you are comparing kits and doing research, you look at the differences and question why. No need for them, as you mention, but it was a question that I had answered by Evo...and I received the same response especially with bypasses combo. I thought I saw that Mel runs larger coilovers on the race jeep (evo 1? I think) with the DTD system.

In my limited experience, there is no comparison between JKs running 2.5" coilovers and a DTD system with a 2.0 coilover and even "just" a 2" bypass. Totally different setups.
 

mastrcruse

New member
My Evo Lever doesn't make any noise driving on the street. I hear noise from the Johnny joints on the control arms, and if the sway bar bushing get dust in them they start to squeak. Keep the bell crank bushings greased and they are quiet. As far as geometry, the DTD has 14" of bind free suspension travel. Their better geometry is just something to brag about on paper that doesn't necessarily equate to better performance on the trail.


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Thanks. If that's the case, my RK long arm kit squeaks and I've gotta keep it greased up so that's no issue whatsoever. Sorry for the stupid question, but since it has 14" of suspension travel, does this mean they use 14" coilovers/bypasses?
 

hinrichs

Caught the Bug
I could be wrong, cuz I read it somewhere, but isn't the coilover in the DTD setup mainly to keep the jeep at the height it needs to be and the bypass shock is really what does a lot of the work, or even all the work? This is why you only need a 2.0 coilover. Mel went to the 3.0 bypasses since he runs at such a higher speed and races his jeep rather than most of the guys who are running the DTD to crawl with.

I can't really comment on the genright suspension in any way, sure it looks cool I guess, never knew it was so damn expensive to have installed since I never read much about it. I did have their tire carrier and was very happy with it till I ended up getting some corner skins and asking for a very simple request from them. The TJ carrier uses 2 separate pieces on the hinge side, instead of being one plate like on a jk. I wanted to buy just those mounts to make my life a lot easier in the end if I sold the carrier.....yeah they confirmed they are the same and would work, but won't sell anything separate. I think I responded "Sorry for wanting to make you more money and providing people with another mounting solution"
 
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highoctane

Caught the Bug
Thanks. If that's the case, my RK long arm kit squeaks and I've gotta keep it greased up so that's no issue whatsoever. Sorry for the stupid question, but since it has 14" of suspension travel, does this mean they use 14" coilovers/bypasses?

No, it uses 12" coilovers and shocks up front, but the slightly laid back angle of the coilover and shock allows those 12" coilovers and bypass shocks to provide about 1" of vertical wheel travel for every .85 or so inches of shock travel. I believe it's called installation ratio, IIRC. Shock travel = vertical wheel travel x installation ratio, or to put it another way installation ratio = shock travel/vertical wheel travel. Which means the Evo DTD has an installation ratio of .857. So for every .86" or so of shock travel you get 1" of vertical wheel travel.

In the rear with the Evo Lever design, 8" coilovers and bypass shocks are used. The cantilever bell cranks are a 2:1 ratio bell crank, so from those 8" coilovers and bypass shocks you get 16" of vertical wheel travel. The Evo Lever system uses limit straps to limit suspension droop, and to 14" of total vertical wheel travel. This is because the Evo Lever without the limit straps, will droop enough to cause driveline u-joints to bind, which would in turn cause them to fail.
 
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jeeper52

LOSER
Not sure what happened to my original post but I'll say it again. I was also considering the Genright elite kit over the evo double throwdown. The deciding factor for me was the amount of work that needed to be done on the genright and i felt it was over my head to try and do it myself that is why i went with the evo double throwdown and that was still a big challenge. My brother however did go with the Genright elite kit and loves it. Ive ridden in his jeep several times and can honestly say his has a much smoother ride than mine. Ride height is about the same, mine might be a little higher to stay out of the bump zone on the bypass shock,Stability seems about the same, mine has more flex/travel but also has a fair amount of rear steer that goes with it. His with the triangulated 4 link has basically no rear steer. As far as costumer support i think both companies have a lot of room to grow,both have a chip on their shoulder and a bad attitude when you call and ask questions. At the end of the day bith are great kits but in my honest opinion neither are worth the kind of money they cost. If i were to build another jeep i would scale it back save a lot of money and aggravation and do the plush ride coil kit with the king 2.5's on 37's and still be able to do most every trail around. If you dont want to risk body damage on trails that buggy's are built for or driving high speeds in the desert than coilovers and bypasses are a unnecessary and expensive upgrade. Just my opinion though.
 
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