How to change Front AXLE LOCKER SENSOR?

[Tcdawg]

Can someone please tell me why the sensor needs to be out when installed? I cant figure it out.

The sensor needs to be extended out while the carrier is put back in the diff because it has to be on the outside if the dog clutch...after you get the carrier installed, the sensor will go back in to its normal location. You can use a little piece if toothpick to keep it extended during install.

 

[nelsonrullan]

How did you pull out your sensor, mine if pretty stuck, the 19 mm wrench won't work, any ideas?

 

[Hilop]

Resurrecting this old topic.

Does the sensor tip move in and out when not installed with the dog clutch on its own when power is applied or does the sensor work in conjunction with the locker electoral magnet?

I just got my Rubi axles back from regear and the front had a broke off sensor tip and the rear just unscrewed but was intact. I applied power to the intact sensor but it did not move. I just want to see if the rear sensor is good or if they'll have to replace both.

Thanks

 

[JKDream]

Resurrecting this old topic.

Does the sensor tip move in and out when not installed with the dog clutch on its own when power is applied or does the sensor work in conjunction with the locker electoral magnet?

I just got my Rubi axles back from regear and the front had a broke off sensor tip and the rear just unscrewed but was intact. I applied power to the intact sensor but it did not move. I just want to see if the rear sensor is good or if they'll have to replace both.

Thanks

The sensor itself doesn't move with power. The actuating ring on the locker does, and it pulls the plunger outward with it; causing the dash light to come on.

 

[Hilop]

The sensor itself doesn't move with power. The actuating ring on the locker does, and it pulls the plunger outward with it; causing the dash light to come on.

Exactly what I needed to know, thank you!

 

[KYRubi]

Resurrecting this old topic.

Does the sensor tip move in and out when not installed with the dog clutch on its own when power is applied or does the sensor work in conjunction with the locker electoral magnet?

I just got my Rubi axles back from regear and the front had a broke off sensor tip and the rear just unscrewed but was intact. I applied power to the intact sensor but it did not move. I just want to see if the rear sensor is good or if they'll have to replace both.

Thanks

We just regeared my JKR to 5.38s and the mechanic showed me a front sensor that looks exactly like yours. When I engaged the front locker before the regear, I definitely remember it lit up the indicator, but I think it was flashing. I don't use the front locker much at all with just a built D44 and 37s. With the sensor tip broken off like this, would you get any indicator light on the dash when engaging the locker?

He took it apart multiple times and replaced the sensor twice. The problem we're running into now is with the way it had to be shimmed, the plate pulls on the plunger a tiny amount and causes the indicator light to flash intermittently while driving down the road without the locker turned on.

Since I had to switch mechanics for gear work, I'm trying to figure out if the switch was already broken, or if it was broken during disassembly. I really don't need an indicator for it being locked since it is extremely obvious when it's locked. The front locker indicator flashing while driving down the road is very annoying and I want it to go away. Could I just unplug the sensor and seal off the connectors to make sure they don't corrode?

 

[Exodus 4x4]

We just regeared my JKR to 5.38s and the mechanic showed me a front sensor that looks exactly like yours. When I engaged the front locker before the regear, I definitely remember it lit up the indicator, but I think it was flashing. I don't use the front locker much at all with just a built D44 and 37s. With the sensor tip broken off like this, would you get any indicator light on the dash when engaging the locker?

He took it apart multiple times and replaced the sensor twice. The problem we're running into now is with the way it had to be shimmed, the plate pulls on the plunger a tiny amount and causes the indicator light to flash intermittently while driving down the road without the locker turned on.

Since I had to switch mechanics for gear work, I'm trying to figure out if the switch was already broken, or if it was broken during disassembly. I really don't need an indicator for it being locked since it is extremely obvious when it's locked. The front locker indicator flashing while driving down the road is very annoying and I want it to go away. Could I just unplug the sensor and seal off the connectors to make sure they don't corrode?

You guys re-geared and then had to shim the factory locker so much that it effected your position sensor?


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[KYRubi]

You guys re-geared and then had to shim the factory locker so much that it effected your position sensor?


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That's what the mechanic said. He also said that the plunger from the front sensor was broken off and completely missing when he took it apart.

 

[fiend]

Sounds like your guy broke it and is feeding you a line to avoid fessing up. He probably tried to force the sensor in after reinstalling the carrier. You need to put the sensor in first, then the carrier. Or, maybe he tried to remove the sensor before the carrier. That'd be backwards. Either way could break the sensor plunger.


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[fiend]

Sounds like your guy broke it and is feeding you a line to avoid fessing up. He probably tried to force the sensor in after reinstalling the carrier. You need to put the sensor in first, then the carrier. Or, maybe he tried to remove the sensor before the carrier. That'd be backwards. Either way could break the sensor plunger.


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[KYRubi]

I'm guessing that he broke it while disassembling it. Then installed the new one incorrectly which caused it to put pressure on the actuator plate and caused the problem he had with it "losing steering." What he described sounded exactly like the plunger on the wrong side of the plate and pushing on it just enough to cause it to lock sometimes. I don't have hydro assist and it is virtually impossible to turn the wheels if it is locked, especially since it was on pavement. He then reassembled it assuring me that it was on the correct side of the plate but was causing the indicator to flash. He said he ordered another one, took it apart, and reassembled it with a 3rd sensor.

It sounds to me like he broke the first one, ordered a replacement, and then fiddled around with it for another week (had it for 2 weeks just to do the front after it took him a few days to do the rear but I needed it back). He claimed he ordered a 3rd sensor and ate the cost of it, but I'm not sure that is actually the case.

I'm getting really tired of this ordeal considering the other 3 times I've had Jeeps regeared it has never taken more than 2 days for both the front and rear and only cost about 60% of the price that this time cost. This brings me back to my question of if I can just disconnect the front sensor to get rid of the flashing indicator?

 

[Exodus 4x4]

I'm guessing that he broke it while disassembling it. Then installed the new one incorrectly which caused it to put pressure on the actuator plate and caused the problem he had with it "losing steering." What he described sounded exactly like the plunger on the wrong side of the plate and pushing on it just enough to cause it to lock sometimes. I don't have hydro assist and it is virtually impossible to turn the wheels if it is locked, especially since it was on pavement. He then reassembled it assuring me that it was on the correct side of the plate but was causing the indicator to flash. He said he ordered another one, took it apart, and reassembled it with a 3rd sensor.

It sounds to me like he broke the first one, ordered a replacement, and then fiddled around with it for another week (had it for 2 weeks just to do the front after it took him a few days to do the rear but I needed it back). He claimed he ordered a 3rd sensor and ate the cost of it, but I'm not sure that is actually the case.

I'm getting really tired of this ordeal considering the other 3 times I've had Jeeps regeared it has never taken more than 2 days for both the front and rear and only cost about 60% of the price that this time cost. This brings me back to my question of if I can just disconnect the front sensor to get rid of the flashing indicator?

The sensor has to be installed and then HELD OPEN while installing the carrier. Sounds like he could've possibly bent the plate that he mag engages and when it spins with the carrier it's causing the sensor intermittently engage and flash.


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[KYRubi]

The sensor has to be installed and then HELD OPEN while installing the carrier. Sounds like he could've possibly bent the plate that he mag engages and when it spins with the carrier it's causing the sensor intermittently engage and flash.


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Considering it only flashes while moving, this sounds plausible.

 

[Exodus 4x4]

Considering it only flashes while moving, this sounds plausible.

Rubicon axles are so different from the everyday axle because of the sensor thing and believe it or not, very few people actually know how to work on them correctly. I'd suggest you find a shop that can prove they have a lot of experience working on them and then have them tackle this. If the guy is telling the truth about the shim thing, I suspect your backlash is WAY out of spec anyways and needs to be corrected soon. At the very least it will give you peace of mind knowing it's been looked at by someone competent.

Also worth mentioning is unlike the front sensor, the rear locker sensor does NOT need to be held open during installation.


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[KYRubi]

Rubicon axles are so different from the everyday axle because of the sensor thing and believe it or not, very few people actually know how to work on them correctly. I'd suggest you find a shop that can prove they have a lot of experience working on them and then have them tackle this. If the guy is telling the truth about the shim thing, I suspect your backlash is WAY out of spec anyways and needs to be corrected soon. At the very least it will give you peace of mind knowing it's been looked at by someone competent.

Also worth mentioning is unlike the front sensor, the rear locker sensor does NOT need to be held open during installation.


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That's the problem here. Both shops that knew how to do them are now closed. I was only able to find 3 places willing to regear the axles at all. The other 2 said they had never done a Jeep Rubicon, but gears are gears and they could do it. I knew better than to let them touch them. Also, one wanted $750 per axle and the other wanted $900 per axle just for the labor. This guy said he had done a Rubicon before and wanted $400 per axle for the labor, but ended up charging me a total of $1000.

The closest good places I'm aware of now are 70-100 miles away. I'm really not happy about this.

 

[fiend]

Sorry about your experience. Sounds frustrating. Google "synergy JK ring and pinion" and you should find a pretty decent set of written instructions on how to do a ring and pinion installation in a JK. It's for a rear axle but the front is pretty much the same, other than having to disconnect the tie rod so you can access the gears. With the instructions, a decent mechanic with differential experience should have no trouble with the job even without any JK experience.


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[KYRubi]

I wish I had realized that I was going to end up on 37's. I would have just had a Dynatrac 60 with an ARB and 5.38 gears swapped in and sold my D44 Rubicon axle complete. It would have been way less headache and probably have been similar money for a stronger setup.

 

[Exodus 4x4]

I wish I had realized that I was going to end up on 37's. I would have just had a Dynatrac 60 with an ARB and 5.38 gears swapped in and sold my D44 Rubicon axle complete. It would have been way less headache and probably have been similar money for a stronger setup.

It's not the end of the world, and believe me it happens way more than you think. Personally I would recommend you bite the bullet and drive the extra miles to get it done right this time.


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[KYRubi]

It's not the end of the world, and believe me it happens way more than you think. Personally I would recommend you bite the bullet and drive the extra miles to get it done right this time.


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I know. Of course, the pain in the butt is having a friend of mine follow me out there and drive me back while they tear it down, determine what needs to be fixed, and then fix it. Then, a friend has to drive me back out there and follow me back again to get it home.

I may just drive the Mustang for the next week and see if I can find someone closer at the Shop Talk for my off road group next week. Some of them are pretty good wrench turners and I know that at least one has regeared his JKUR himself.

 

[Exodus 4x4]

I know. Of course, the pain in the butt is having a friend of mine follow me out there and drive me back while they tear it down, determine what needs to be fixed, and then fix it. Then, a friend has to drive me back out there and follow me back again to get it home.

I may just drive the Mustang for the next week and see if I can find someone closer at the Shop Talk for my off road group next week. Some of them are pretty good wrench turners and I know that at least one has regeared his JKUR himself.

There you go. Good luck bud.



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