How to change Front AXLE LOCKER SENSOR?

KYRubi

New member
The sensor has to be installed and then HELD OPEN while installing the carrier. Sounds like he could've possibly bent the plate that he mag engages and when it spins with the carrier it's causing the sensor intermittently engage and flash.


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I just did a really short test drive and I think you may be right. From stopped, without it flashing, I can inch it forward until it starts flashing and stop. It will continue to flash until I inch it forward a little more.
 

Exodus 4x4

New member
I just did a really short test drive and I think you may be right. From stopped, without it flashing, I can inch it forward until it starts flashing and stop. It will continue to flash until I inch it forward a little more.

The plate can be removed and straightened, but you have to tear everything down again. You could possibly open the diff cover and roll the carrier until you find the spot and then try to bend it back but I'm never so lucky that things work out that easy.


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KYRubi

New member
I did another experiment. I went to the back yard and tried engaging and disengaging the lockers and going in forward and reverse. Now, the front indicator is no longer flashing and everything seems to work. Could the actuator plate have been slightly cockeyed and causing the issue?
 

CJ5_Tom

New member
Details on Rubicon front locker sensor

IMG_4457.jpg

My front locker sensor is also not working. I just got this 2014 Rubicon in April, and when I took it off road in July, the front locker light began blinking when I unlocked the front diff, and continues to blink. I purchased a new Mopar sensor, and will r place it myself when the weather cools off some. I just ordered one of the borescope cameras that work with my smart phone, so I can try to look inside the diff and see if I can tell what is going on with the switch, before disassembling it.

While I had the new one to play with, I took dimensions, switch contact info, photo, etc. Thought it might help someone later. This switch changes state with about 1/3" travel. It is normally closed (Unlocked), and the contact opens when put into 'Locked'. It is spring return to pull it in to N.C. Contact.

Now, I am also looking for confirming information on best way to replace.
1. If I just loosen carriage and pull out just enough, and change out locker switch, will it damage the seals, so they will need replacing?
2. I will probably remove both spindles and pull out axles just enough to remove carriage and replace switch. These axles have had the gears replaced in the past, but I do not know history of who did it. Should I plan on replacing the seals while doing this work? They are not leaking now.
3. Would I need to spread the diff housing, so the carriage comes out more easily. I had made a tool before, for my CJ5, when I took it apart. But I will need to find it now, since it has been many years.
4. What else should I do/inspect while this is disassembled? I will, of course, clean it out, look for metal in bottom, inspect gears, and will probably check gear tooth contact pattern. For sure, I will count gear teeth, and see if I can find part number on ring gear, for future reference.

Thanks for any help,
I am new to JK's, and this forum.
 
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