wjtstudios
Hooked
No. I had to have a custom section made after the long arm was added to correct the loop delete.
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Installing Evo Long Arm on half at a Time
- Thread starter phillypete
- Start date
No. I had to have a custom section made after the long arm was added to correct the loop delete.
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jesse3638
Hooked
If you have the work space I'd say go for the install yourself. Having installed a long arm lift myself it isnt the easiest thing to do but you learn a lot. For me it was part of the reason I bought it, to build it too.
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phillypete
New member
Awesome post!!! Thank you!
phillypete
New member
I’m seeing conflicting information in various places. Do I use a 1/2” drill bit or 9/16”?
jesse3638
Hooked
Follow the instructions included. When in doubt start with the smaller bit. It's always easier to make a small larger not the other way around.
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phillypete
New member
Got it... I saw a thread on here referencing 9/16”.
I bought a couple of 1/4” bits to use as pilots hopefully that makes the drilling a little easier.
jesse3638
Hooked
I didn't bother with drilling pilot holes. A good center punch and the drill bit nice and straight going slow with oil and you should be good to go.
When are you going to begin?
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Benito
Caught the Bug
You need both I believe, their is 1/2” hardware you need to drill holes for on the crossmember, and 9/16” holes you need to drill into the frame(on the rear high clearance brackets you need to drill holes in the frame for the control arm bolts) it’s a lot easier to weld everything than it is to drill all the holes to mount the brackets. My self and a buddy that welds did the front in 6 hrs and used a flex pipe for the exhaust until I could put the loop back in. we did the rear the next day in 8 hrs, that was with doing custom lower control arm mounts on the axle to make the high clearance kit work with shocks. we used sawz-all’s and grinders. I borrowed a plasma cutter but my the compressor we had was too wet so we didn’t get much use out of it.
phillypete
New member
I’ve read your thread several times prior to committing and now lead up to the first cut.
The Jeep goes up on the jack stands as soon as I get home from work tomorrow night. The plan as of now is just the front end. If things go well I might try the rear as well, but I’m not going to push it.
Friday Night:
Jack Stands
Wheels off
Saturday:
Cut Passenger Mounts
Test Fit and transfer holes
Paint bracket
Drill passenger holes
Paint frame area
Cut Driver Mounts
Test Fit and transfer
Paint bracket
Drill driver holes
Paint frame
Sunday:
Mount brackets
Install arms
DWiggles
Caught the Bug
Sounds like a solid plan. CUT THE LOOP STRAIGHT UP AND DOWN. :cheesy: NOT perpendicular to the pipe.
jesse3638
Hooked
As many times as I've tried to visualize this my mind still won't let me see it...haha.Sounds like a solid plan. CUT THE LOOP STRAIGHT UP AND DOWN. :cheesy: NOT perpendicular to the pipe.
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phillypete
New member
Well the wife pulled the plug on tonight’s festivities for fear of disturbing our neighborhood. A little more progress than planned tonight. Although a couple of the suspension nuts put up more fight than my diminutive air wrench could handle. Repeated doses of penetrant and full compressor dumps got all expect for the top inside mount freed. Worse case senario i’ll cut right through that bad boy tomorrow.
Our plasma cutter at work has been acting up so I played it safe with the sawzall. The Diablo blades make short work of it, but expect to waste one on each mount you cut.
I was slightly unsure where to cut so it looks like i’ll have some clean up work in the AM. I might try scoring the weld like with a cut off wheel to get things flush.
Our plasma cutter at work has been acting up so I played it safe with the sawzall. The Diablo blades make short work of it, but expect to waste one on each mount you cut.
I was slightly unsure where to cut so it looks like i’ll have some clean up work in the AM. I might try scoring the weld like with a cut off wheel to get things flush.
Attachments
phillypete
New member
A frustrating Saturday.
First I hit all kinds of delays because the sawzall and angle grinder are through my batteries faster than I could charge them. I even resorted to putting them in the fridge to cool them down after a use to get them charging quicker.
Then, as I was cutting off the driver side front control arm mounts I clipped the brake line!!!
Any advice on a fix?
First I hit all kinds of delays because the sawzall and angle grinder are through my batteries faster than I could charge them. I even resorted to putting them in the fridge to cool them down after a use to get them charging quicker.
Then, as I was cutting off the driver side front control arm mounts I clipped the brake line!!!
Any advice on a fix?
jesse3638
Hooked
I meamt to tell you. Use corded tools. While cordless ones are great for convenience even the best batteries won't last long enough.
Sucks about the break line. Didn't your kit come with longer ones? Or you meant the hard line?
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phillypete
New member
TheGrendel
Active Member
Hard line
Definitely sounds like something I would do. :crazyeyes:
jesse3638
Hooked
Looking online there seem to be some couplers which maybe you can find at a local auto parts store. Hopefully it works out. How's progress coming?
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Patrykjkur
New member
phillypete
New member
I got the wheels back on around 5p.
It was a battle but I feel like I could have knocked out both halves if it wasn’t for some hickups.
Pitfalls to be avoided:
- cordless tools: drills are fine, sawzall ok, angle grinder hell no!! Everytime I plugged a battery into that bad boy it sucked the life right out of it! I took lots of downtime in the cutting process to wait for batteries to charge. For the back half I’m going to invest in one or two 60v battteries. From what I here it makes 20v tools run forever. I might also borrow a plug in angle grinder.
- cut closer for less grinding: on the first side I just hacked the shit out of the brackets with the sawzall and then had a ton of work to go back and clean them up. Essentially I cut them off twice! On the second side I used the angle grinder to establish a starting line then use the sawzall to make the cut. With this method I had very little clean up grinding to do.
- lots of pilot drills: I used a small (maybe 1/8th) drill to get the party started then went to 1/4 and finished up with the 1/2. I might even through a 3/8” in the mix for the backside. I’m not sure it made things faster overall, but the periodic sense of accomplishment helped moral.
- slow but firm: the key to cutting steel pressure. Speed builds heat and kills your bit. Use oil to mitigate heat, but even still half trigger is all you need. The drivers side went through like a hot knife through butter because I was able to brace my hands against the driveshaft. I even wedged a piece of wood inbetween my had and the driveshaft, then used my shoulder to apply pressure.
Be careful around the brakelines! Those mother f’ers run right over top the drivers side brackets. I think I might have clipped mine when trimming the exhaust loop. This lead to a trip to several auto parts stored and several hours trying to McGiver my brakeline back together.
Buy extra hardware: the one glaring oversight in the EVO instructions is what hardware goes where. Also it should be known that the Stover locking nuts are a one shot sort of thing if you have to back it off and retighten you just have a regular old non-locking nut. I used washers fairly liberally so I’m going to get a couple extra of everything before I crack into the rear half.