Jeep JK Wrangler Unit Bearing Replacement Write-Up

siphon6

siphon6

New member
wayoflife said:
Welcome to WAYALIFE! I see that you've been on here for a while now but glad that you've finally decided to post up. As far as the SKF hub bearing goes, is there a specific reason why you would recommend it over Timken?
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SKF hub bearings are put through rigorous testing to make sure they meet or exceed OE specifications. These tests have proven life expectancy of 100,000+ miles, built using OE sensors, premium seals since SKF acquired Chicago Rawhide some 10+ years ago, 100% tested to the actual OE specs per part number, precise bearing preload from the factory. Here is some more info: http://www.skf.com/binary/30-147232/457284.pdf
 
OverlanderJK

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
siphon6 said:
SKF hub bearings are put through rigorous testing to make sure they meet or exceed OE specifications. These tests have proven life expectancy of 100,000+ miles, built using OE sensors, premium seals since SKF acquired Chicago Rawhide some 10+ years ago, 100% tested to the actual OE specs per part number, precise bearing preload from the factory. Here is some more info: http://www.skf.com/binary/30-147232/457284.pdf
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Welcome! :standing wave:
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
siphon6 said:
SKF hub bearings are put through rigorous testing to make sure they meet or exceed OE specifications. These tests have proven life expectancy of 100,000+ miles, built using OE sensors, premium seals since SKF acquired Chicago Rawhide some 10+ years ago, 100% tested to the actual OE specs per part number, precise bearing preload from the factory. Here is some more info: http://www.skf.com/binary/30-147232/457284.pdf
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Wow, you posted up a link to PDF and everything. You really seem to be an authority when it comes to these SKF hub bearings! Also, you still haven't explained why these are better than Timken. Why are they inferior?
 
siphon6

siphon6

New member
wayoflife said:
Wow, you posted up a link to PDF and everything. You really seem to be an authority when it comes to these SKF hub bearings! Also, you still haven't explained why these are better than Timken. Why are they inferior?
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Timken does not build their hub bearings to the standards of which I mentioned in my prior post - per part number testing, OE ABS sensors, premium seals, factory preload, tested to 100,000+ miles, etc.
 
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wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
siphon6 said:
Timken does build their hub bearings to the standards of which I mentioned in my prior post - per part number testing, OE ABS sensors, premium seals, factory preload, tested to 100,000+ miles, etc.
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Okay. So then why come on here to tell everyone to get SKF over Timken if they are built the same way? :idontknow:
 
siphon6

siphon6

New member
wayoflife said:
Okay. So then why come on here to tell everyone to get SKF over Timken if they are built the same way? :idontknow:
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Oops typo..."does not", fixed my post. I did not want to get on here and bash another brand, just trying to provide insight to what goes into a premium SKF hub unit bearing.
 
olram30

olram30

Not That Kind of Engineer
siphon6 said:
Oops typo..."does not", fixed my post. I did not want to get on here and bash another brand, just trying to provide insight to what goes into a premium SKF hub unit bearing.
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I just contacted skf and asked if they could hire you. You'd make a good salesman since you're so knowledgeable on their bearings.
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
siphon6 said:
Oops typo..."does not", fixed my post. I did not want to get on here and bash another brand, just trying to provide insight to what goes into a premium SKF hub unit bearing.
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Okay, since you seem to be an expert here, how exactly are Timken unit bearings made?
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
Eddie, when installing your new unit bearings did you find that your abs wire was shorter than stock? Mine is noticeably shorter and I'm worried that at full droop it's not going to be long enough
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
cozdude said:
Eddie, when installing your new unit bearings did you find that your abs wire was shorter than stock? Mine is noticeably shorter and I'm worried that at full droop it's not going to be long enough
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Yes. It is shorter but even at a full droop with my DTD's that have 14" of vertical travel, it still had enough length to it. Of course, I have long since pulled the plug off the frame and re-routed the line so that I could get more length out of it and would recommend you do the same. I think in 2011-up, the speed sensor lines were made a lot longer and on the 2012-up, they are long enough to get routed under the shocks.

Anyway, if I can make them work with my droop, you should be fine. :yup:
 
cozdude

cozdude

Guy with a Red 2-Door
wayoflife said:
Yes. It is shorter but even at a full droop with my DTD's that have 14" of vertical travel, it still had enough length to it. Of course, I have long since pulled the plug off the frame and re-routed the line so that I could get more length out of it and would recommend you do the same. I think in 2011-up, the speed sensor lines were made a lot longer and on the 2012-up, they are long enough to get routed under the shocks.

Anyway, if I can make them work with my droop, you should be fine. :yup:
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Ok great! Good to hear! I still have it routed the same as factory but I guess I will reroute it now and not have it attached to the shock tower just to be safe. Thanks!

Side note- my old was was a royal pain in the ass to get off lol look how rusty it is compared to the new one
ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1407799314.278767.jpg
 
Bierpower

Bierpower

Hooked
14. Install the axle hub nut and tighten it to 100 ft. lbs. of torque. To do this, place a pry bar between the wheel studs while using a breaker bar to tighten the nut.

When I was fixing cars we always avoided prying on lug studs. Any flattening of the treads can eat your lug nuts and make the threads weak. We always mounted the brake rotor and caliper, then put a screwdriver down through the center of the caliper into the cooling fins of the rotor. With this method you also have both hands on the torque wrench helping to avoid knuckle busters. Not trying to bash your methods just something we practiced. Also if your in that rust belt you can loosen your three bolt in the back and give them a few whacks with a punch and hammer if it's stuck in there real good. That was usually enough to unseat the bearing for me.
 
H

Hammerman

New member
2008 JK rubicon unit bearing replacement

The Timken assembly will work as a replacement on my 2008 rubicon JK. what vendor would you use?
Timken HA590242 Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly.

Thanks for the write up.
 
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A

Ace McDuck

New member
I'm next...

Just destroyed my RF bearings, at least the final blow, on a 3 hour highway trip - "implausible right front speed signal received" on my OBD reader, ABS & TC shut off. (I'd like to know what exactly constitutes "implausible" - any Jeep engineers know how fast implausible is for a 2012 JK??)

When I got home I jacked up the front end & the right side wobbled like the lug nuts were half off.

I'm picking up a Timken assembly tomorrow & will be following your write-up. I'm expecting some BFH exercise since the frequent mud and rust up here in the Great White North have already welded parts of my Jeep together. :)
 
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