Jeep Lean Fix

[tippedover]

What causes the lean to passenger side?...I've even noticed this in my Anvil after returning from the Rubicon last august...I don't any more weight on the passenger side than I do driver's side


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I have no idea what causes the lean it's half inch at the front and rear. I checked my springs even switched the driver side springs to the passenger side today and still have the lean. I have checked everything else and have no idea. I read on a old project jk post that someone said maybe it has to do with the extra weight and torque to the engine but I can't seriously think the torque you play in that much. Maybe it's everything plus the curve of the road seems ez to fix either way order some spacers.


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[wardawg]

Usually the passenger side springs have a higher numerical value (+1 or 2) compared to the driver side to account for the weight of the gas tank. You should take a look to see what the tags say on the coils. Some lift kits may not account for it like the factory springs do.

I have no idea what causes the lean it's half inch at the front and rear. I checked my springs even switched the driver side springs to the passenger side today and still have the lean. I have checked everything else and have no idea. I read on a old project jk post that someone said maybe it has to do with the extra weight and torque to the engine but I can't seriously think the torque you play in that much. Maybe it's everything plus the curve of the road seems ez to fix either way order some spacers.


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[mudmobeeler]

Usually the passenger side springs have a higher numerical value (+1 or 2) compared to the driver side to account for the weight of the gas tank. You should take a look to see what the tags say on the coils. Some lift kits may not account for it like the factory springs do.

It has nothing to do with the tank. They will still lean even on empty.


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[BobNH]

I knew about this with the TJ, and always assumed it had to do with engine torque twisting over the years. I did not realize it was also a JK issue. I think I found the answer though. He's gotta be almost 2 feet taller....

 

[notnalc68]

Usually the passenger side springs have a higher numerical value (+1 or 2) compared to the driver side to account for the weight of the gas tank. You should take a look to see what the tags say on the coils. Some lift kits may not account for it like the factory springs do.

I've never seen that, in 3 JKs, not to say that they aren't out there, like that. All of mine had identical springs, side to side.


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[catahoula]

I have seen some springs numbers different in the front off by a number. Mine done not lean that I notice as well.

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[notnalc68]

Right. I figure there can be some out there, like that, but none of mine were.


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[jesse3638]

When you get out just walk over to the passenger side and push it to the driver's side and slowly let it come back. Presto no more lean...

 

[kawimoto]

I had this issue and it bothered me for a while.... so much so that I took the time to reclock both rear springs in different setups to see if itd make any difference. sure enough with the passenger side tail clocked pointing forward and the driver side coil clocked opposing to the rear it fixed it. this is on a set of metalcloak coils but Im pretty confident itd fix it or at the very least help it out some. play around with it to see what works and what doesnt

 

[H8ROADS]

I had this issue and it bothered me for a while.... so much so that I took the time to reclock both rear springs in different setups to see if itd make any difference. sure enough with the passenger side tail clocked pointing forward and the driver side coil clocked opposing to the rear it fixed it. this is on a set of metalcloak coils but Im pretty confident itd fix it or at the very least help it out some. play around with it to see what works and what doesnt

This is what I think is wrong with mine and the source of the lean. I'm almost sure it's the springs. Just hasn't bothered me enough yet to get under there and fix it.

 

[Seahawkfan]

This shit is killing me. I have 1.5" difference between driver and passenger side. I have already swapped out rear upper 10" 200 ( EVO bolt-on CO's) to a 10" 250. So it's 10" 250 over 12" 250.
Trying to correct for 1.5" seems like doing it with pre-load is just way too much. I would probably be showing more than 3" of thread on that side.
Going to pull rear springs out soon. Hoping to find out they are fatigued and measure different than the driver side.
I think I'm going to go with a 14" 300 rear lower and 14" 300 front lower. I have about 2.5" or 2.75" of thread showing so I have the room for the 14". I think!
Okay thinking out loud now. I have been thinking what if I were to take a scrap of an old white plastic cutting board which is 1" thick and solid as hell. Using a 3.5" and 3" (or whatever the slider collar is) hole saw and make a spacer that would be about 3/8"ish thick and place it on the long side of the slider. My thinking is that way I'm not using that much of my preload to level my jeep. Or have that big of a difference in preload. Hope this makes sense. What do you think?


Thanks

 

[bobfriesenhahn]

This shit is killing me. I have 1.5" difference between driver and passenger side. I have already swapped out rear upper 10" 200 ( EVO bolt-on CO's) to a 10" 250. So it's 10" 250 over 12" 250.
Trying to correct for 1.5" seems like doing it with pre-load is just way too much. I would probably be showing more than 3" of thread on that side.
Going to pull rear springs out soon. Hoping to find out they are fatigued and measure different than the driver side.
I think I'm going to go with a 14" 300 rear lower and 14" 300 front lower. I have about 2.5" or 2.75" of thread showing so I have the room for the 14". I think!
Okay thinking out loud now. I have been thinking what if I were to take a scrap of an old white plastic cutting board which is 1" thick and solid as hell. Using a 3.5" and 3" (or whatever the slider collar is) hole saw and make a spacer that would be about 3/8"ish thick and place it on the long side of the slider. My thinking is that way I'm not using that much of my preload to level my jeep. Or have that big of a difference in preload. Hope this makes sense. What do you think?

View attachment 401166 View attachment 401167
Thanks

It seems useful to get a scale and measure the weight at each corner, with a similar thickness spacer under the other wheels. Otherwise you really don't know what is going on.

Perhaps someone has posted "factory" corner weights for a similar Jeep which can be used as a comparison.

 

[jeeeep]

This shit is killing me. I have 1.5" difference between driver and passenger side. I have already swapped out rear upper 10" 200 ( EVO bolt-on CO's) to a 10" 250. So it's 10" 250 over 12" 250.
Trying to correct for 1.5" seems like doing it with pre-load is just way too much. I would probably be showing more than 3" of thread on that side.
Going to pull rear springs out soon. Hoping to find out they are fatigued and measure different than the driver side.
I think I'm going to go with a 14" 300 rear lower and 14" 300 front lower. I have about 2.5" or 2.75" of thread showing so I have the room for the 14". I think!
Okay thinking out loud now. I have been thinking what if I were to take a scrap of an old white plastic cutting board which is 1" thick and solid as hell. Using a 3.5" and 3" (or whatever the slider collar is) hole saw and make a spacer that would be about 3/8"ish thick and place it on the long side of the slider. My thinking is that way I'm not using that much of my preload to level my jeep. Or have that big of a difference in preload. Hope this makes sense. What do you think?

View attachment 401166 View attachment 401167
Thanks

I'm still new to coil overs but in what I've learned from various posts and adjusting out my coils, I'd consider going with a 12" 250 upper being that's the primary and you need the pre-load.

My thinking is going with a 10" higher rate would still make the 10" coil not as effective as it should be and too much preload on a 10" would make the secondary your only working coil

There is a process to calculate spring rates but I'm still in process of understanding and making sense of it all.

I'd use Eibach coils, also Summit Racing is making coils that are inexpensive as you test, just be sure to get the proper ID coils.

 

[wayoflife]

This shit is killing me. I have 1.5" difference between driver and passenger side. I have already swapped out rear upper 10" 200 ( EVO bolt-on CO's) to a 10" 250. So it's 10" 250 over 12" 250.
Trying to correct for 1.5" seems like doing it with pre-load is just way too much. I would probably be showing more than 3" of thread on that side.
Going to pull rear springs out soon. Hoping to find out they are fatigued and measure different than the driver side.
I think I'm going to go with a 14" 300 rear lower and 14" 300 front lower. I have about 2.5" or 2.75" of thread showing so I have the room for the 14". I think!
Okay thinking out loud now. I have been thinking what if I were to take a scrap of an old white plastic cutting board which is 1" thick and solid as hell. Using a 3.5" and 3" (or whatever the slider collar is) hole saw and make a spacer that would be about 3/8"ish thick and place it on the long side of the slider. My thinking is that way I'm not using that much of my preload to level my jeep. Or have that big of a difference in preload. Hope this makes sense. What do you think?

Thanks

Couple of things. What are your fronts set at? I ask because if your driver side front is set too tall, it will cause your passenger side rear to droop. Also, a "JK Lean" is annoying but totally normal. Have you tried installing adjustable sway bar links front and rear? You can control some of the lean with them as well.

 

[Seahawkfan]

Couple of things. What are your fronts set at? I ask because if your driver side front is set too tall, it will cause your passenger side rear to droop. Also, a "JK Lean" is annoying but totally normal. Have you tried installing adjustable sway bar links front and rear? You can control some of the lean with them as well.

Yea I know it's common. But 1 1/2" is a little much. Just bugs me. I could always just jack it up with reverse break check before I through it in park and shut it down. You know use the torque in the opposite direction.
Do you mean preload? I have 2 1/8" thread showing up front. Not yet on the links.

 

[Seahawkfan]

I'm still new to coil overs but in what I've learned from various posts and adjusting out my coils, I'd consider going with a 12" 250 upper being that's the primary and you need the pre-load.

My thinking is going with a 10" higher rate would still make the 10" coil not as effective as it should be and too much preload on a 10" would make the secondary your only working coil

There is a process to calculate spring rates but I'm still in process of understanding and making sense of it all.

I'd use Eibach coils, also Summit Racing is making coils that are inexpensive as you test, just be sure to get the proper ID coils.

I think I will start with a 12" 250 rear upper. Thanks
I'm going with the Eibach from Accutune spring swap.

 

[Seahawkfan]

Couple of things. What are your fronts set at? I ask because if your driver side front is set too tall, it will cause your passenger side rear to droop. Also, a "JK Lean" is annoying but totally normal. Have you tried installing adjustable sway bar links front and rear? You can control some of the lean with them as well.

Well shit I actually achieved driver side lean. Eddie thanks for the tip on the sway bar links. Had some EVO links laying around, they are about 2 1/2" shorter than what I have on it. Now I just need to fine tune it. I just need to find someplace to buy some hex bar. (I think that's what it's called?) I think an inch or so longer will do the trick. Happy camper now. No issues on the road, drives straight and handles great.
It's nice to walk up to it and not see that fucking lean.
Question for you. While going through the cabinets in the garage I came across these coil over coil bearings. They came with the coil overs for my 51 Chevy. Have you heard of anything like these in the offroad world? I was thinking maybe throw these on both top and bottom of the sliders and see if maybe it would quiet things down.?
Thanks again.

 

[dchew]

Well shit I actually achieved driver side lean. Eddie thanks for the tip on the sway bar links. Had some EVO links laying around, they are about 2 1/2" shorter than what I have on it. Now I just need to fine tune it. I just need to find someplace to buy some hex bar. (I think that's what it's called?) I think an inch or so longer will do the trick. Happy camper now. No issues on the road, drives straight and handles great.
It's nice to walk up to it and not see that fucking lean.
Question for you. While going through the cabinets in the garage I came across these coil over coil bearings. They came with the coil overs for my 51 Chevy. Have you heard of anything like these in the offroad world? I was thinking maybe throw these on both top and bottom of the sliders and see if maybe it would quiet things down.?
Thanks again. View attachment 402125

Not sure what you mean by "quiet things down," but AGM makes a slider for coil overs. They are well-made, not cheap and arguably not necessary. 3-piece construction with a replaceable liner sleeve. I used them with my original coil over setup and they worked fine.

Dave

 

[Ddays]

Beat me to this ^^
Agree, not cheap and not functionally needed, but they is quiet
Those coil bearings would probably last one trip offroad being that they're not sealed.

 

[jeeeep]

Not sure what you mean by "quiet things down," but AGM makes a slider for coil overs. They are well-made, not cheap and arguably not necessary. 3-piece construction with a replaceable liner sleeve. I used them with my original coil over setup and they worked fine.

Dave

View attachment 402127

have these on my coil overs, much quieter than the stock units that came with the coil overs