Long Arm Lift Kits

[StrizzyChris]

hahaha I love it...I was going down the thread clicking on the multi-quote bar to talk about how TJ arms are tiny compared to the fairly long factory JK arm so all information from owners of only a JK should be thrown out(unless they know about suspension mods on older jeeps)

also that Long arm does not mean longer range of motion or "travel" of that arm. then I got to posts 11,15,18 and 19...that'll tell you everything you need to know!

Last word of advice from my meager little brain....a TJ on 33-35's is about like a JKU on 37-40's....THEY ARE HUGE for that smaller frame and body...its like putting a big set of C-cups on a 5'1" 100lb blond

 

[Skirmish]

I'd better tell my buddy with 37's on his LJ that he is running 42's then. Yikes!

 

[wayoflife]

I saw someone mention earlier that a longarm system gives you more travel. This is NOT true. Suspension travel comes from spring/shock length. The long arms keep the suspension angles in check throughout the arc of the suspension's travel. A benefit is a better and smoother on road ride. If your current short arms are binding, maybe because of the use of rubber or urethane bushings that don't flex(like factory arms, Rough Country arms, Sky Jacker arms, etc), instead of flex joints like a johnny joint(Rock Krawler arms, Offroad Evolution arms, Teraflex arms, Full Traction arms), that is an issue with the current short arms you are specifically running, not all short arms have that problem. While switching to longarms will solve your control arm binding issue, switching to a high quality set of short arms with johnny joints or a similar flex joint will also help you take full use of your shock travel and get back flex you are losing due to control arm bind. But, like Eddie said, once you reach a certain lift height, like 4" on a TJ, or say 5" on a JK, those short arms will have a pretty steep angle to them, and at that point a longarm swap would help you greatly. Below those heights, quality short arms will do great.

I've seen long arm kits that use crap bushings and bind during the arc of the suspension's travel. The SkyJacker JK longarm is the kit I saw. It used stiff urethane bushings, and had minimal flex for what a 4" longarm kit should have. Another I've seen is the Rubicon Express longarm. A buddies JK had the 4.5" RE longarm, and it would practically tear the bushings apart while flexing because it was binding so hard. These are all issues with bushings, not the length of the arms. With a quality flex joint, you likely won't have these issues. Eliminating binding is what allows you to take full use of the length of your shocks, to get maximum flex.

Someone please correct me if I am wrong.

What you are saying is spot on. Long arms WILL NOT give you more flex, it'll just correct your suspension geometry and give you a better ride and one that you will notice most ON PAVEMENT. I will say however that polyurethan bushings will provide better flex than clevite bushings (bonded rubber) but, not by much. As far as RE long arms go, what you were seeing were the results of radius arms more than anything. Radius arms are great for big vertical travel like you would see in a desert race truck but its design forces it to be in a state of bind the minute you try to articulate it. Because of it, I have seen RE bushings get detroyed after one wheeling trip.

 

[StrizzyChris]

I'd better tell my buddy with 37's on his LJ that he is running 42's then. Yikes!

or at least ask him if u can take a look at its undercarriage :brows:

 

[Hightower]

What you are saying is spot on. Long arms WILL NOT give you more flex, it'll just correct your suspension geometry and give you a better ride and one that you will notice most ON PAVEMENT. I will say however that polyurethan bushings will provide better flex than clevite bushings (bonded rubber) but, not by much. As far as RE long arms go, what you were seeing were the results of radius arms more than anything. Radius arms are great for big vertical travel like you would see in a desert race truck but its design forces it to be in a state of bind the minute you try to articulate it. Because of it, I have seen RE bushings get detroyed after one wheeling trip.

Eddie am I correct to believe that when you are trying to go up and over an obstacle on the trail a short arm suspension will have the tendency to push your front wheels down under the obstacle and long arm will do the revers?

 

[Skirmish]

or at least ask him if u can take a look at its undercarriage :brows:

You mean like this?


Or go to 5:52 of this video. We had him roll over a gopro so you can clearly see his undercarriage. If you keep watching you can see the two other TJs that were with us that run on 35's, one of them recently swapped for 37's but I haven't seen them yet.

http://youtu.be/vFdnSc_unio

Out of the 30 or so rigs that regularly run in our club the only 33's are on a JK. All the TJ's have at least 35's. The LJ on 37's is the only one with a long arm kit.

 

[Renagade119]

hahaha I love it...I was going down the thread clicking on the multi-quote bar to talk about how TJ arms are tiny compared to the fairly long factory JK arm so all information from owners of only a JK should be thrown out(unless they know about suspension mods on older jeeps)

also that Long arm does not mean longer range of motion or "travel" of that arm. then I got to posts 11,15,18 and 19...that'll tell you everything you need to know!

Last word of advice from my meager little brain....a TJ on 33-35's is about like a JKU on 37-40's....THEY ARE HUGE for that smaller frame and body...its like putting a big set of C-cups on a 5'1" 100lb blond

So what youre saying is that if I put 33's or 35's on my TJ than I look badass as hell? :rock:

 

[StrizzyChris]

So what youre saying is that if I put 33's or 35's on my TJ than I look badass as hell? :rock:

Well at the least you'll find me outside in the grocery parking lot rubbin on its headlights :brows:

But in my opinion, hell yeah! I had a YJ with 33's and it was really good looking. My buddy had a TJ with 35's and it was SICK!
I personally wouldn't go over a 35" on a pre-jk but again thats strictly personal preference!

And for the record I'm not a big tire shrewd. Im planning my build around 40's.

 

[Renagade119]

Gotcha. Well, who knows, maybe Ill put 33's on it. Im not sure yet :thinking:

 

[StrizzyChris]

I would Google TJ 35" tires and just start getting ideas, and see if you like the style. Then find some builds and see what all it takes

You mean like this?
View attachment 10878

Haha ok this thread is getting a little jeeporn-ish!

 

[wayoflife]

Eddie am I correct to believe that when you are trying to go up and over an obstacle on the trail a short arm suspension will have the tendency to push your front wheels down under the obstacle and long arm will do the revers?

Short arms with big flex will cause the axle to swipe back and that will essentially do what you have described. Long arms will help keep your axle articulating properly and help prevent that from occuring.

 

[sch0143]

33s or 35s

Gotcha. Well, who knows, maybe Ill put 33's on it. Im not sure yet :thinking:

I am at the same cross roads your at with my tj, i was debating between 35s and 33s, I am going with 35s because your going to run 33s and be happy with them at first then your gunna wanna go bigger, but i say spend the money once and be done with it , i am looking at a a 3.5 in rock kawler long arm lift

 

[Lobo6]

Long or Short....33 or 35?

I have a 1997 TJ and was faced with the same dilema. Like many folks on this site, I went through the cost of installing my lift in increments....i.e. budget boost, short arm, different short arms that articulate and finally a long arm kit.
Knowing what I know now, I would "invest" in a quality short arm kit and run either the 33's or 35's depending on what your budget says. There are plenty of short arm lifted TJ's out there that have conquered many a trail and returned home unscathed!
As far as a long arm kit, the previous responses have been great. The Wayalife admin pretty much nailed it. All I can add is that with a longer arm "frequency of movement" is much reduced and translates into less stress on the frame and a better ride for the occupants. Think of the short arm needing to move farther (up and down) to go over a 6 inch bump vs a long arm that due to leverage, barely moves. The nice thing that a long arm kit does give you is articulation, depending upon spring set up. It does allow for more suspension drop or sag, when the wheel travels downward. However....once you enter "Long Arm Land" all of the details need to be addressed! Correct springs (size, weight capacity, progressive load, etc.), shock location and length, bump stops, limit straps, driveline upgrades to include proper pinion angle as well as length of travel. It requires more attention to more details to get it set up.
Once it's set up, the ride is much better and the stability offroad is increased.
There are many kits on the market and much confusion! Talk to different owners and see what they say are strengths/weaknesses.
I run a Rock Krawler long arm suspension and love it that the arms are solid steel, not tubes! The suspension has done everything I have asked it to do without any issues. I just do not care for the krawler joints due to the lack of a decent lube system. They have zerk fittings and you do not grease them. You remove the fragile zerk and put 3 in one oil into the joint. I look at other joints and they are actually "greaseable"! I can oil my joints before a trip and need to re-oil them again once I'm home.
Needless to say, I am now looking for new joints!
Good luck with your lift and if I can be of any help let me know.
PS- I plan on keeping my TJ and have no plans for a JK.

 

[ssh6314]

Another thing to consider. While you may be in school and on a budget. ( we where all there once, and a lot still are. Money is scarce ) you can get a lift that is say a complete 3/3.5 inch lift. But that is upgradeable. Most Rubicon express lifts are like this. You can get the 3 inch lift. And later. Buy there 3 inch long arm upgrade kit. Which just adds the long arm components to your existing 3inch kit. It will end up coating a little more to buy the 2 separately. But, it gives you that ability to go long arm a few years from now. Without getting a whole new kit. Just my 2 cents.:beer:

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