MedixJK
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Then again, i may leave the 30 for a while and lock the rear. Lol. Fml.
Need some expert input
- Thread starter MedixJK
- Start date
Then again, i may leave the 30 for a while and lock the rear. Lol. Fml.
cozdude
Guy with a Red 2-Door
You could do that and it's what I did. I regeared my 30 but left it open and locked the rear.
As for the axle I would rather see you spend the money on the pr just for the safety aspect of it since the Rubi 44 and the 30 are the same axle outside of the diff being bigger on the 44. It's still gonna bend in the same spot.
JK_Dave
Caught the Bug
You go halfsies with me on a PR44 and I'll gift you my D44. Sound like a deal?
MedixJK
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Lol im not in the position to do anything right really but i guess that would depend on which pr44 package you buy ;-)
BLK HULK
New member
This sounds like a good idea as well, but in the end its not a cheap option.
On our 13, we did gears truss, gussets, sleeves front and gears truss, ARB locker in rear.
Arb locker was not cheap, guess what I needed a ARB compressor(got the dual one), but then you need more things for your ARB compressor. NOT a cheap upgrade.
The guy who installed it did the front first, and charged $700, for gears truss gussets and sleeves. He took the Axles out.
He charged $700 for the rear truss, gears and locker install. And about $200 for a custom bracket and install of the ARB compressor in the rear.
After all the we are still running a D30 in the front and d44 rear with stock axles shafts..
With the money it cost we could have bought a (I like rockjock) currie d44 front.
Guess its all what you want.
Gears $1100 with kit
locker 1600 after taxes
ARB compressor with everything needed for on board air $1000
sleeves 230
gussets ??? don't remember
front and rear truss ??? don't remember about $500 for front and rear
front install $700
rear install $700
close to $5000 after install
MedixJK
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yea i know it. Thats what has me thinking about the best order to procede. I like baby steps.lol
Red Knight15
Caught the Bug
I'm with everyone else, keep what you have and save up for front axle and gears. It sucks starting over, I'm doing it now.
swampdog
New member
New to the forum and to jeeping, but honest, informative responses like these are awesome.
Right Rudder
New member
I wouldn't sweat the T-case ratio at all honestly; I'm under the impression it's no stronger, just different gearing (Vets correct me if I'm wrong here, after a little research I keep confusing myself and am now unsure). I have a Rubi and would sometimes love to be able to put out a little more wheelspin in 4-Lo. I'm sure you encounter your share of slimy stuff doing normal trails/rocks in Ky even if you detest mud and go out of your way to avoid it like me.
I'm sort of currently in the same spot as you minus the enforcer and have so far done all the work myself, wouldn't dream of trading it in.
I'm sort of currently in the same spot as you minus the enforcer and have so far done all the work myself, wouldn't dream of trading it in.
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MedixJK
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i dont want to get rid of it at all. I love it. Sometimes i get ancy and need the proverbial smack in the face. Lol
thardy
Banned
cozdude
Guy with a Red 2-Door
Correct the rubi t case is just geared differently. In low range a sport/Sahara t case is 2.73:1 while the Rubi is 4:1. The Rubi is better strictly for off roading
jkwebbie
New member
Don't sell it!!!! Are you crazy????!!!!
Just upgrade in stages. What I would do is get the ARB twin air compressor with the mount and install it first because you can run it for air tools and airing up. Plus its one of the cheapest upgrades on your list.
Then go with regear and locking the rear with an ARB. If you wanted you could chromo the rear but honestly I wouldn't until you broke a stock shaft. Keep the front open.
Then after that, buy a Prorock 44, 60, junkyard axles, Rockwell's, whatever the hell you want and wheel the sbit out of your Jeep!!!!
Plus you can get a little money back by selling the Dana 30 once you upgrade to a bigger front. It won't be much, but it may pay for a part you really want/need in the future or pay for labor.
Just upgrade in stages. What I would do is get the ARB twin air compressor with the mount and install it first because you can run it for air tools and airing up. Plus its one of the cheapest upgrades on your list.
Then go with regear and locking the rear with an ARB. If you wanted you could chromo the rear but honestly I wouldn't until you broke a stock shaft. Keep the front open.
Then after that, buy a Prorock 44, 60, junkyard axles, Rockwell's, whatever the hell you want and wheel the sbit out of your Jeep!!!!
Plus you can get a little money back by selling the Dana 30 once you upgrade to a bigger front. It won't be much, but it may pay for a part you really want/need in the future or pay for labor.
MedixJK
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I was thinking along the same lines. Prior to any of that though, is a winch, true sliders and a cage lol, not in any particular order.
thardy
Banned
Out of those, I'd say winch first, sliders, then cage.
cozdude
Guy with a Red 2-Door
Agree with this or skip the cage and use that money for the axle and regear
Grubbicon
New member
I say Rockwells... Thats my down fall lol. Dont forget the 49s to go with it lmao.
jkwebbie
New member
Warn Zeon!!!!!!!!!!!
Haha hell yea!!!! There's a guy here in NC selling 49" Iroks for like 2000. They have like 2 trail rides on them lol
MedixJK
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well, im looking at it from a family safety standpoint. On the trail, and as a DD.
Yea that. Lol
