need you expertise in picking out the right Jeep!!

[JKBombshell]

Hello fellow enthusiasts! i need your knowledge in some decision making that i will have to face in the (hopefully) near future.

ill save the story of why i have not been able to get the ride of my dreams for almost 3 years, for the "GIVE US A WAVE" section.

my question is... what should i get sport or Rubi? pros and cons of each, and if you had to do it all again what would you do and why?

ok some details and future plans...
-i know i want a JKU. (because.. family man)
-auto trans (so my wife can drive it)
-normally i love to get top of the line, fully loaded, all bells and whistles. my Modo "buy once, Cry once" and "don't ever settle"
how ever, now that i got my build pictured in my mind and the parts list almost complete, after doing research i dont know what would be the best way to go with.

-some plans i have..
Shoes 37" on 17" or 40" on 17" (still debating)
well, need i say more? lol with that alone most of the under body is going to need to be replaced.

i was stuck on rubi because of the navi, heated seats, leather, keyless entry, electric start. along with some things that come stronger on the rubi then the sport that i may not need to replace right away. also later i decided leather wont last very long with kids, and in the long run most likely be getting some aftermarket seats front and back and well i can make the new ones heated if i really want to. electric start i can add after market as well. not sure about keyless entry yet. would love to have it.

so with this and much more should i just save the money and buy a fully loaded sport (saving the money and using it for upgrades? or a mid loaded rubi? and still replace most of it a few years down the road?

other questions i have.
-can i add a factory keyless entry later if it does not come with it?
-do they offer dana 44 in the sport? ideally i wanted to get a rubi because of 4;10 gears option so i can run 35's/37's with light off-Roading while im saving for the bigger axles.
- would the stock axles on a Sport 3.73 axle ratio handle 35 or 37s?

i maybe way over thinking this. and thats because i never really owned one and i dont know what exactly all the differences between the two are other than the features the dealers list or underline in there adds.

i have noticed most of the builds on here start out as Sport. but those builds usually are fully built with in a year. and well my time line is way way longer. driving a jeep that is not capable to do at least some of the bunny trails is heartbreaking. thats why i figured well rubi is more capable. but man thats almost 10K on things ill be taking off later anyway...

sorry if this is way to long and over written. i pretty much typed up most of my thought Process.

 

[wayoflife]

Trust me, I have done it both ways and when I had a chance to do it again, I got another Rubicon. Trust me, the 4:1 transfer case, e-disco, axles with lockers that you can sell later and all the interior amenities that are available to you are all worth the extra expense.

 

[thardy]

Welcome to the forum! :standing wave:

Personally, I would go with the Rubi based on what you're looking for. If you go with the Rubi, you'll get the D44 front (verify it has 4.10s, a lot of them these days are coming with 3.73) which, with adding c-gussets, should handle wheeling 35s with no major issues, and would probably last a good while on 37s based on what you're describing. If you get one that has the 3.73, I personally wouldn't go bigger than 35s without re-gearing. Again, just my :twocents:

 

[Canvas JK]

Not sure if you can get a D44 front axle for a sport.

Since you want to run 37's out of the box I would recommend getting Rubi installing C gussets. If you are looking at a 2014 plush Rubi the automatics come with 3.73 gears and would have to special order it with 4.10 gears. If you are really planning on 37's it is highly recommended to regear to 5.13's. Wayoflife did a write up on Rubicat and regearing to run 37's. Additionally you will need a taller lift and I would recommend the EVO Enforcer 4 inch or Double D long arm.

You mentioned wanting to run 40's eventually that would eventually require new front and rear axles to Pro Rock 60's which would mean new wheels. If you are going to go 40's I would also recommend getting a 20 inch rim as to me it looks better with 40's. BTW the price difference from 37's to 40's is almost $2000 just in tires alone. You would be able to run 40's on a stock D44's but the regearing would make your ring and pinion the weakest link. Check out the WAYALIFE video The Dusy and you will see what I am talking about.

The build part is going to be up to you on how much you want to spend on building your Jeep to do what you want.

R/
Will

 

[Templar]

I would do the Rubicon for the reasons listed in previous posts.

Regarding gearing choices. With my 08 I did the 4.11's and looking back, after upgrading to 37's it was a dog. With my 2015 JKUR I knew I would be going to 37's relatively soon so I ordered mine with 3.73's (did not have to pay the $595 charge 4.10's) and for $950 I have a local shop who will do 5.13's. So for just +$355 or so I think you will get a much better gear ratio - but check a tire size and gear ratio chart and see what you think.

-Mark

 

[JKBombshell]

thanks guys! this is all great info. i was leaning towards the rubi but wanted to make sure i would not be making a mistake one way over the other.

so from what i understand the Rubi comes with dana 44 front and rear, only thing that changes is the gear ratio? if thats the case i might not worry so much about making sure it has 4.10 in it from factory and just rear gear it for the 37" like TemplarAZ mentioned. i didnt want to order one specific because i would be paying almost retail. from what i heard that dealers dont cut you much of a deal if at all when ordering a specific jeep. i just have a list of things i cant live with out and things i would like. since i live in the NW i have quite a bit of a selection from what dealers have on there lot.

and the color i want is black. for the reason that the door jams and engine bay is black. that way i can ether repaint or vinyl any color i want with out having it look funny when i open the door. Example green Jeep with red vinyl would look like Christmas all year long when the doors or hood opens.

so black, white, and the grey ones are the most popular jeeps on the lots. so i get to focus on the goodies in side, with a hefty deals they offer on the lot vehicles

 

[Christarp]

Get the rubi. Also being that you live in portland, I would highly suggest going to browns camp with someone while your vehicle is completely stock! A rubi is quite capable even stock and I think you may be surprised just how much you can do with those lockers.

 

[Slavens]

Rubicon !

Like Eddie eluded too .. There's so many creature comforts that you can only get with the Rubi that make it well worth it. Its very capable from the start and its something you will grow into and no matter what you have in mind now probably will change later the Rubicon allows you to get out on the more difficult trails earlier in the build process.


Good luck with what you decide and welcome to WOL!

 

[jnabird333]

I was the odd guy out that voted to get a loaded Sport, but I will admit that I skimmed your post before having done so. As with many of my replies, I was on the phone while reading/posting.

This said; I’m still torn on my opinion here. If you know you are headed for 40s and are replacing the axles anyway why put money into parts you will be removing? I know this still leaves the electronic sway disconnect and transfer case to tend to, but there are aftermarket solutions for this as well.

I think my tipping point would come down to the reality of when I could make these things happen. And If I am willing to wait for them before I start to play harder. Also, I’m not sure all the options you will find in most Rubicons are available in a Sport trim. If you move to a Sahara, the cost savings becomes near mute.

We have both a Rubicon and a Sport. The 4:1 T-Case is a game changer in my opinion and the electronic sway bar disconnect not only makes disconnecting easy but also reconnecting on the trail. I have reconnected on some off camber descents for more stability, and to intentionally carry a tire over a hole.

I know this doesn’t help you much, but at least you know what the crazy guy that voted the other way was thinking at the time… :beer:

 

[TheStick]

thanks guys! this is all great info. i was leaning towards the rubi but wanted to make sure i would not be making a mistake one way over the other.

so from what i understand the Rubi comes with dana 44 front and rear, only thing that changes is the gear ratio? if thats the case i might not worry so much about making sure it has 4.10 in it from factory and just rear gear it for the 37" like TemplarAZ mentioned. i didnt want to order one specific because i would be paying almost retail. from what i heard that dealers dont cut you much of a deal if at all when ordering a specific jeep. i just have a list of things i cant live with out and things i would like. since i live in the NW i have quite a bit of a selection from what dealers have on there lot.

and the color i want is black. for the reason that the door jams and engine bay is black. that way i can ether repaint or vinyl any color i want with out having it look funny when i open the door. Example green Jeep with red vinyl would look like Christmas all year long when the doors or hood opens.

so black, white, and the grey ones are the most popular jeeps on the lots. so i get to focus on the goodies in side, with a hefty deals they offer on the lot vehicles

I voted Rubi but a couple questions. The difference between 40's and 37's is big for what has to happen to make them work. That is a big decision factor to nail down. Also, how soon will the mods be done? Day 1 or years? If it will take a while I would pay the small price for the 4.10's. I loved the way mine drove with the stock 32's and they still work well with 35's.

As far as purchase, you can haggle just fine on an order. I paid right about 2% under invoice for my Jeep ordered exactly the way I wanted it. 1% under (which in the big picture is only a few hundred different) is basically the standard if you know what you are doing. Just get a USAA or Treadlightly quote and bring it in. No need to actually have the memberships.

 

[Jk909]

I went with a sport because I wasn't really hard core like these guys. A stock sport will do the job for basic exploring. However now that I have some more change in my pocket and the skill to push my jeep harder I wish I had purchased a rubi. It's a better jeep in every way. Upgrades are never cheap so why not just buy the best. At the end of the day you need to ask yourself if your really going to use it. The most bad ass jeep I have ever seen was the stock willys that my grandfather used to take on safaris from Ethiopia to Kenya.

 

[JKBombshell]

I voted Rubi but a couple questions. The difference between 40's and 37's is big for what has to happen to make them work. That is a big decision factor to nail down. Also, how soon will the mods be done? Day 1 or years? If it will take a while I would pay the small price for the 4.10's. I loved the way mine drove with the stock 32's and they still work well with 35's.

As far as purchase, you can haggle just fine on an order. I paid right about 2% under invoice for my Jeep ordered exactly the way I wanted it. 1% under (which in the big picture is only a few hundred different) is basically the standard if you know what you are doing. Just get a USAA or Treadlightly quote and bring it in. No need to actually have the memberships.

over all i think it would be between 2-3 years before i get it about how i want it. mods wise. so it will be a slow build. again my family comes first and with what ever money i have left would go to this project. so in short, years.

also thanks for the info. ill look in to the USAA and or Treadlightly quotes. dont know what you mean by that or what that is. but ill look in to it. sounds very helpful.

thank you

 

[TheStick]

over all i think it would be between 2-3 years before i get it about how i want it. mods wise. so it will be a slow build. again my family comes first and with what ever money i have left would go to this project. so in short, years.

also thanks for the info. ill look in to the USAA and or Treadlightly quotes. dont know what you mean by that or what that is. but ill look in to it. sounds very helpful.

thank you

Here is the tread lightly program. http://treadlightly.org/join/individual/chrysler-affiliates-reward-program/

Being a USAA member gets the same. Like I said, a little negotiating and you should be able to get this easily without actually becoming a member.

 

[Speeddmn]

I voted for the Rubi, if you know you will want to upgrade the axles then why not get more money back from the stock ones... Also if you plan to take your time and build, I've had my jeep since Oct 2010 and it's still fairly stock. Taking your time isnt bad, it allows me to pay bills and take care of my family first. I have the end goal in my head and it is not that hardcore. I dont need much, If I want something to beat on, on the trails I'll get something older or use a quad/side by side.

 

[Tigrcky]

welcome to the forum, saw your wave and it was quite unique! congrats on the little bundles of joy! i voted rubi, this is going to be the route i take in the next year or so, my reasons why. 1 i plan to take up to 3 years or more before i fully mod it the way i want. 2 with the take offs to go up to 40s i can resale them and offset a very small % of my estimated build cost. 3 while im taking the time to go big with the jeep i plan on wheeling it and hands down the rubi sets you up in the best way to get by until you get them goodies that we all drool over. and 4 i have a few friends on here who want my take offs! you guys know who you are :brows:

 

[ClarksAdventures]

thanks guys! this is all great info. i was leaning towards the rubi but wanted to make sure i would not be making a mistake one way over the other.

so from what i understand the Rubi comes with dana 44 front and rear, only thing that changes is the gear ratio? if thats the case i might not worry so much about making sure it has 4.10 in it from factory and just rear gear it for the 37" like TemplarAZ mentioned. i didnt want to order one specific because i would be paying almost retail. from what i heard that dealers dont cut you much of a deal if at all when ordering a specific jeep. i just have a list of things i cant live with out and things i would like. since i live in the NW i have quite a bit of a selection from what dealers have on there lot.

and the color i want is black. for the reason that the door jams and engine bay is black. that way i can ether repaint or vinyl any color i want with out having it look funny when i open the door. Example green Jeep with red vinyl would look like Christmas all year long when the doors or hood opens.

so black, white, and the grey ones are the most popular jeeps on the lots. so i get to focus on the goodies in side, with a hefty deals they offer on the lot vehicles

I vote for the rubi. I have a stock 2dr rubicon(at least for the next month or two). I can always take you out to Browns camp and you can see how capable they are right out of the box.

As far as price goes. Don't even bother with any local dealerships. I personally have found them to be a pain to deal with. Each dealership carries a certain type of wrangler, and that what they will try and push on you. Ex, the suburbs have a lot more saharas with that stupid dragon package.

I would recommend Smolitz Motors out of Bend,OR. Ask for Steven. He's a very knowledgable jeep guy, and will find the exact jeep you want. Nothing more and nothing less. If he can't he will order one for you (that's what I did). Plus even ordering my jeep I still got several thousands off of list price.

Pm, if you wanna talk details.

 

[Templar]

Regarding the purchase of a Jeep, I also find the dealers in my area (AZ) to be awful. Of the three Jeeps I bought brand new, I ordered two of them through a out of state dealership - the savings was that-much-better, and it was no hassle. For my 2015 JKUR, I ordered it the way I wanted from a dealer out of state, I paid 5.5% under invoice + I got another $500 incentive from Jeep for just requesting a brochure on the wrangler. If you have not already done so, I suggest going to Jeep.com and request a wrangler brochure. If you do not get the rebate in the mail by the time you go jeep shopping, or by the time you go to pick up the jeep you order from the factory, have the dealer check to see if you have an incentive. If your lucky you can get another $500 off. That $500 does not affect their bottom line what-so-ever. Good luck with your purchase and build and welcome to wayalife.

 

[JKBombshell]

this is all great info, i will have to reference this page back when im closer to the time of getting my jeep. just need a few things to happen first.
1. get my raise
2. save 5-10k for down payment. (i want a comfortable monthly payment.)
3. pay off one debit i have. (photography related)
4. (this one soesnt have to happen but if it does i will be getting my jeep sooner) get a second job. maybe something i can work for about 6 hours nights or swing.

 

[JKBombshell]

I vote for the rubi. I have a stock 2dr rubicon(at least for the next month or two). I can always take you out to Browns camp and you can see how capable they are right out of the box.

this sounds so tempting. maybe as a return favor ill take some sweet pictures of your jeep while we are out there. maybe even call it "The WAL NW Photoshoot Run"
and maybe get some other local guys to go as well?? make it a little get together. ill be able to check out what every one has and meet some local guys.
i guess i could be down for this :wings:

 

[JKBombshell]

Regarding the purchase of a Jeep, I also find the dealers in my area (AZ) to be awful. Of the three Jeeps I bought brand new, I ordered two of them through a out of state dealership - the savings was that-much-better, and it was no hassle. For my 2015 JKUR, I ordered it the way I wanted from a dealer out of state, I paid 5.5% under invoice + I got another $500 incentive from Jeep for just requesting a brochure on the wrangler. If you have not already done so, I suggest going to Jeep.com and request a wrangler brochure. If you do not get the rebate in the mail by the time you go jeep shopping, or by the time you go to pick up the jeep you order from the factory, have the dealer check to see if you have an incentive. If your lucky you can get another $500 off. That $500 does not affect their bottom line what-so-ever. Good luck with your purchase and build and welcome to wayalife.

so i did a little bit of digging. not sure if im correct or not but if some one is getting 5.5% under invoice with a JKUR thats about $4-5k less then msrp. am i correct?
i found a website that lets you pick the options and pretty much build your jeep then it tells you what the invoice is, and the MSRP. so i took invoice took out 5.5% got that number then added back in the difference between MSRP and Invoice. to get a general idea of what im looking to pay compared to the MSRP of the car.
this way i found its about 4-5k less then msrp. correct me if im wrong.

this is still early for me to get in to details, but if i have a over all idea of a good price and i then would know how close i am to getting my first JKUR.