Thanks for following up, Drew. :thumb:
New-to-me 2008 JKU, help me identify lift, broken coil spring
- Thread starter plext0r
- Start date
Thanks for following up, Drew. :thumb:
:yup: I wonder if you guys look through my pics again, are the bump stops already correct for the 3"+ lift or do I need to add bump stop extensions? I imagine the brake lines are already set up properly since we've flexed out the Jeep and nothing's broken, but I'll take a closer look tonight to ensure there is no wear.
Thanks for all the advice!
In my budget-conscious world, is there any reason I need to spend $420 on a pair of EVO adjustable lower control arms or would I be fine with the Rock Krawler ($279) or something else? I understand the EVO's are adjustable in place. Are the others as well? The price difference could basically pay for an AEV ProCal I planned to purchase.
thardy
Banned
To be honest, I don't know too much in regards to adjusting the control arms. As long as you got the new style Rock Krawler arms that do not have the rubber bushing on the frame side, I think you'd be ok going that route.
thardy
Banned
If you haven't already bought springs, here's a pretty good deal on some plush rides!
http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=28874
http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=28874
Thank you, but I had already pulled the trigger on a set. My son and I have been slowly working to remove the front springs and we found two spacers, the procomp(?) 1.75" spacer and a 3/4" additional spacer at the top of the front spring. Is this 3/4" spacer stock or should we remove it as well? Sorry for the newbie question. Also, if you look at our brake lines, it appears they installed some sort of lowering bracket on the front but kept the stock lines. Can you verify? Should I go ahead and replace the brake lines with longer ones at this time? Thanks.
MR.Ty
Token East Coast Guy
The 3/4 spacer is stock and you should leave it in. As for the brake lines, I think you'll be find with the drop bracket I would just zip tie the slack to the body of the shock. If you are getting new shocks as well, I'd try to find a place that you can flex your Jeep and check to make sure your brake lines are not about to break.
:thumb: Thanks for that tidbit.
The only reason I thought about this is I cannot let the axle droop fully; I'm supporting it on jack stands while working since the brake lines are too taught to allow full droop after disconnecting the track bar axle-side. I was hoping to allow droop and pop out the springs, but I resorted to renting some spring compressors. I don't think there is any slack that will need to be zip tied to the shock.
MR.Ty
Token East Coast Guy
Ah since that's the case then yes I'd get longer brake lines as well. I think they are fairly inexpensive from Crown.
Something like this?
Also, I've not seen mention of extending the ABS cable. Does it have slack somewhere so it can be extended and zip tied to the new brake lines without causing issues?
EDIT: never mind, I found this excellent write-up.
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We tried removing the front passenger-side lower control arm and found out the previous owner had cam bolts installed on the frame mount. We were able to remove the nut and washer from the inside, but the cam bolt won't slide out. When we try to back out the bolt using a breaker bar, the washer moves ever so slightly, but I think it's tied up against those tabs that stick out. I've tried hitting it out with a 5 lb sledge but it's not budging. I've soaked it in PB Blaster and called it a night.
I guess I'm going to purchase the Synergy cam bolt elimination kit since the Jeep is in my garage and I don't weld. :doh: Any other options?
EDIT: Better picture of the mess.
I guess I'm going to purchase the Synergy cam bolt elimination kit since the Jeep is in my garage and I don't weld. :doh: Any other options?
EDIT: Better picture of the mess.
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I found similar washers on Amazon and since I'm a Prime member, I can get them fairly quickly.
http://www.amazon.com/Morton-TW-5SS-Stainless-Steel-Washer/dp/B00GV3FDUW/
I also read about folks cutting out the seized cam bolt and I wonder if I'll need to do something similar as it appears the cam bolt has rusted to the stock control arm bushing sleeve.
http://www.amazon.com/Morton-TW-5SS-Stainless-Steel-Washer/dp/B00GV3FDUW/
I also read about folks cutting out the seized cam bolt and I wonder if I'll need to do something similar as it appears the cam bolt has rusted to the stock control arm bushing sleeve.
Rebel JK
New member
Something to consider with these being stainless is welding them will suck. The synergys are standard (zinc coated) steel and will weld with standard mig easily. Stainless should be tig welded and im not sure what filler rod you would use for the 2 dissimiliar metals. (lca bracket being standard steel)
@RebelJK, thanks for the tip. I cannot find the zinc coated steel washers close by and cannot wait until the middle of next week to get them. I plan to just get the stainless ones for use without welding. I believe they won't slide around due to the raised nubs on the LCA bracket. If I have further problems with the LCAs, I'd have to get someone to help me weld a steel plate over the existing oblong hole for my new 9/16" bolts.
Rebel JK
New member
My jk came with the dreaded cam bolts as well. After the 2nd or 3rd time having to re adjust after a little wheeling, i ended up just welding the "cam washers" to the lca brackets. My cam washers are almost 50% thicker than the bracket thickness so I wasnt worried about those failing. Then use a bur tool to round out the square side of the hole.
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Excellent idea on reusing the cam washers.
Rebel JK
New member
Regardless of which washer you go with, you want to make sure your axle is strait before you weld it up, especially if you don't have adjustable lowers. Be prepared to smoke your bushings if you do more than tack in place, drop arms and finish weld. A little heat may be your friend on removing the seized bolt, but you'll probably need bushings either way so not a big loss.
I purchased Rock Krawler adjustable lower control arms, so I just need to remove the stock control arms and lovely cam bolts no matter the damage to the existing control arms.