Passenger knuckle hub bolt

Jackal01

New member
Why are you changing your knuckles? If your passenger knuckle that the drag link hooks to is good and still in stock form I'm looking for one


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Drilled the hole for the Synergy DLF too large. Somehow it has managed to work fine these past few months. Got death wobble last week. Determined it was the DLF hole in the knuckle. Synergy couldn't explain it either or really speculate how it stayed in place, "functioning" as designed.
 
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JKbrick

Active Member
Drilled the hole for the Synergy DLF too large. Somehow it has managed to work fine these past few months. Got death wobble last week. Determined it was the DLF hole in the knuckle. Synergy couldn't explain it either or really speculate how it stayed in place, "functioning" as designed.

Ok thank you, I drilled mine also and I've been chasing bump steer and shitty steering to the point I took my lift off and put the track bars back down and factory drag link back on. I put the bushing in from the bottom but my factory drag link does not seem to go in as far as it should from the bottom. So I'm just thinking of replacing the knuckle


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jeeeep

Hooked
Ok thank you, I drilled mine also and I've been chasing bump steer and shitty steering to the point I took my lift off and put the track bars back down and factory drag link back on. I put the bushing in from the bottom but my factory drag link does not seem to go in as far as it should from the bottom. So I'm just thinking of replacing the knuckle


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if it quits raining I hope to get mine swapped out over the next few days, definitely over the weekend. the passenger knuckle should be in good shape.
 

Jackal01

New member
Finished late last night. Installed the new unit bearing and hub on the passenger side with new bolts. Installed the new knuckles (Reid). I went with Reid because I would have bought them with the PR44 next year so why buy knuckles twice? Installed the Synergy DLF and Tie Rod. Torqued to spec. The OEM SS is not attached as I still have to drill out the bushing for the half inch bolt for the new bracket. I took it for a test drive last night and everything went well. I came home for lunch today and wanted to get some highway speeds in before our 3 hour trip tonight. Got up to 50ish and death wobble returned. I attempted to check the BJs on both sides by myself. I did not see any movement but again, this was just me. I will do a more thorough check on Sunday when we get back. Jeep is staying home. Castor should be good as nothing changed with the control arms. My next steps are to check all the bolts on everything up front. Then check the BJs again. I just dont recall seeing movement in the BJs when I was installing the knuckles. I would think that I would have felt and or seen movement while wrenching on them setting them up. Am I alone on that? Same with the unit bearing on the driver side since passenger is new. DW starts around 1:45.

 

WJCO

Meme King
That sucks man. Have someone turn the wheel back and forth while you watch the upper track bar end. If it moves, you may have an ovaled hole. Ball joints can usually only be checked for play with a good load on them. Jack up each side of the axle (one at a time). With the axle weight still on the jack, put a large prybar or shovel under the tire and pry upward. You'll see movement if ball joints are bad. Repeat on the other side.
 

Heavyhaul07

New member
Another good way to check ball joints by your self is to jack up the side u want to check use a pry bar or something that will fit between the axel c and the axle u joint and pry up on the u joint.


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