PSC Big Bore Cylinder Assist install issues

MericaMade

MericaMade

Active Member
stitch1 said:
I had the same issue with the Synergy bracket. I just notched a little of the spring perch and a little off the back ribs of the bracket.
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On my buddies JKU we had to grind down the Synergy nut they include that replaces the factory sector shaft nut. The Synergy sector nut was banging into the Synergy track bar and stopping up travel. But now I am going to check to see if his is hitting the bucket.

On another note after helping a buddy install the PSC kit I would not waste money trying to reinforce and just step up to the PSC kit after seeing how much bigger and stronger it is.
 
Chainringtattoo

Chainringtattoo

Member
I checked my measurements on the front control arms. Uppers are set to stock length and lowers are 1/2” longer than stock. Am I wrong in thinking that’s about right for a 3.5” lift?

And I could grind this bracket down to fit. But I’m not sure there’d be much of it left on that right corner. The way I see it, it’s Steer Smarts job to make this fit, not mine. I don’t mind doing a little nip/tuck here and there but this thing needs full on reconstructive surgery to work.
 
fiend

fiend

Caught the Bug
Chainringtattoo said:
I checked my measurements on the front control arms. Uppers are set to stock length and lowers are 1/2” longer than stock. Am I wrong in thinking that’s about right for a 3.5” lift?

And I could grind this bracket down to fit. But I’m not sure there’d be much of it left on that right corner. The way I see it, it’s Steer Smarts job to make this fit, not mine. I don’t mind doing a little nip/tuck here and there but this thing needs full on reconstructive surgery to work.
Click to expand...

I don’t know why it would be Steer Smarts job to make it fit, when you admit that your arms are 1/2 inch longer than stock, unless Steer Smarts advertises that the product is designed for a non-stock set up.

FWIW, my Synergy fixed length lower arms are 1/4 inch longer than stock, which Synergy says will get you proper caster at 3” lift. I don’t have the contact you’re experiencing with my Synergy track bar reinforcing bracket, which appears to be very similar to yours.

Why don’t you try shortening your lower arms 1/4” and see if that solves your problem. Complaining about Steer Smarts isn’t going to do anything.


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BaddestCross

BaddestCross

Active Member
Chainringtattoo said:
I checked my measurements on the front control arms. Uppers are set to stock length and lowers are 1/2” longer than stock. Am I wrong in thinking that’s about right for a 3.5” lift?

And I could grind this bracket down to fit. But I’m not sure there’d be much of it left on that right corner. The way I see it, it’s Steer Smarts job to make this fit, not mine. I don’t mind doing a little nip/tuck here and there but this thing needs full on reconstructive surgery to work.
Click to expand...
If your uppers are stock length and your lowers are longer, you lowered the pinion angle which isn't usually what one wants to do... How does it drive? Any flighty feeling or vibrations? Have you measured your caster? Are you still running the stock driveshaft? Did you cycle through the suspension without springs in it?

I'd be willing to bet you didn't do much or any of that because if you had you would've seen that it was going to be an issue. Your axle is probably too far forward causing your springs to bow and jounce stops probably not aligned with the bump pads. Not to mention causing the spring bucket to catch on the bracket.



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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
 
Chainringtattoo

Chainringtattoo

Member
When I installed the Core 4x4 arms in December I emailed them asking for their recommendations on lengths. I never heard back from them. So I went searching and and came up with this from Tera Flex and it's what I went with:

Screen Shot 2020-05-05 at 8.09.58 PM.png

Not knowing if it was right I took it to a 4x4 shop for them to dial me in with an alignment. I don't think they changed much other than toe. Does it drive flighty? It's not the best handling thing I've ever driven. I'm at 5.3 degrees of caster. PSC states I should be at 7 for optimum handling. I know there's no way to get to 7 without making the pinion angle worse than it already is. And yes, there is some vibration at 75 mph but I can't tell if it's the driveline or the Nitto Mud Grapplers. I do not have stock drive shafts. I tried having the Nittos balanced but I was told they didn't balance well.

So if I shorten the control arms by 1/4" that should also reduce caster which theoretically won't help the steering. But I'm willing to try anything.
 
fiend

fiend

Caught the Bug
Chainringtattoo said:
When I installed the Core 4x4 arms in December I emailed them asking for their recommendations on lengths. I never heard back from them. So I went searching and and came up with this from Tera Flex and it's what I went with:

View attachment 346773

Not knowing if it was right I took it to a 4x4 shop for them to dial me in with an alignment. I don't think they changed much other than toe. Does it drive flighty? It's not the best handling thing I've ever driven. I'm at 5.3 degrees of caster. PSC states I should be at 7 for optimum handling. I know there's no way to get to 7 without making the pinion angle worse than it already is. And yes, there is some vibration at 75 mph but I can't tell if it's the driveline or the Nitto Mud Grapplers. I do not have stock drive shafts. I tried having the Nittos balanced but I was told they didn't balance well.

So if I shorten the control arms by 1/4" that should also reduce caster which theoretically won't help the steering. But I'm willing to try anything.
Click to expand...

Shorten the lowers by 1/4”. Shorten the uppers by an amount sufficient to get 4-5 degrees of caster. 4.2 is stock. See if that helps.

If you really want to do it right, you need to remove your shocks and coil springs so you can cycle your suspension and check for interferences as you make your adjustments. But that’s a lot of work.

How much lift do you have and how much bump stop?


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Chainringtattoo

Chainringtattoo

Member
fiend said:
Shorten the lowers by 1/4”. Shorten the uppers by an amount sufficient to get 4-5 degrees of caster. 4.2 is stock. See if that helps.

If you really want to do it right, you need to remove your shocks and coil springs so you can cycle your suspension and check for interferences as you make your adjustments. But that’s a lot of work.

How much lift do you have and how much bump stop?


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Click to expand...

Uppers are as short as they can go. I was sort of surprised by the fact that they could not be shortened less than stock length. I have hundreds of hours of work into this Jeep. What's a few more?
 
Chainringtattoo

Chainringtattoo

Member
fiend said:
Picture shows no additional bump stops which could be a lot of the problem.


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Click to expand...

Kind of what I was thinking.


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Springs and bump stops are the only things I haven't changed yet. I've been working through each issue. Regeared to 5.13 right off the bat. I'm pretty sure you guys are right about the bump stops. I've been setting everything up to go to 37s. I assume bump stops for 37s are going to be different than for 35s?
 
fiend

fiend

Caught the Bug
Chainringtattoo said:
Kind of what I was thinking.


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Click to expand...

Springs and bump stops are the only things I haven't changed yet. I've been working through each issue. Regeared to 5.13 right off the bat. I'm pretty sure you guys are right about the bump stops. I've been setting everything up to go to 37s. I assume bump stops for 37s are going to be different than for 35s?[/QUOTE]

Good place to start is you need as much bump stop as you have lift. So 3” lift, 3” bump stop. Other things come into play, particularly when you lift more than 3 inches.


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BaddestCross

BaddestCross

Active Member
Chainringtattoo said:
Uppers are as short as they can go. I was sort of surprised by the fact that they could not be shortened less than stock length. I have hundreds of hours of work into this Jeep. What's a few more?
Click to expand...
You don't want the uppers to be shorter than stock. You set the distance of the axle with the lowers and adjust the pinion angle with the uppers. I'm guessing your pinion is too low... If you've got a double-cardan driveshaft, it should be aiming at the transfer case as much as possible to avoid binding and vibration without throwing off the caster too much that it fucks with your steering.

As fiend said, factory caster is 4.2° and unless you've got an aftermarket axle that adjusts that, you should try to get as close to factory as possible.

Absolutely add bump stop. The rule of thumb is to match the lift so a 3" lift needs 3" of additional bump stop.



--
Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
 
Chainringtattoo

Chainringtattoo

Member
I spent three days in Moab last week and learned a few things so I wanted to follow up.

Originally I said that I thought it was OK to mount the anti-splash reservoir on it's side. I did have some blow off of fluid through it after the first day out on Steel Bender. I'm not sure if it being on its side made it easier for the fluid to exit. I'm also not sure if I had too much fluid in the reservoir to begin with. I did not have a problem the next day on Metal Masher. When I returned home, I decided to remount it vertically. I found a way to fabricate a straight bracket and screw it into the body where the OEM reservoir mount goes. You'll have to remove the OEM mount. It's just one screw. This only applies to the 3.8L.

While doing that I discovered that the line from the reservoir to the anti-splash valve had gotten into the power steering pump pulley and worn through. I thought I had it secured out of the way but I guess it was more determined than I was. A quick trip to the local hydraulic store got everything fixed up. This time with a longer, clear hose which I ran around the outside of the engine bay. I like the clear better because a quick visual of the hose will tell me if fluid is being blown out. Ignore the long screws holding on the anti splash valve. They were all I had on hand at the time and will be replaced.

As for the hydro assist steering, it sure is nice on the trail. I like having the ability to quickly change lines on an obstacle. I'm also getting used to how it drives on the street.

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Chris1015

Chris1015

Member
wjtstudios said:
It’s really not, I’m happy to help. Just shoot me a PM if you need some help.


2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler
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Thanks Bill! That would be much appreciated. Trainwreck was also telling me the same thing today, not a big deal. I think it will be my next purchase.
 
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