Raised Track Bar/Flipped Drag Link/Drop Pitman Arm - No middle Ground?

Ddays

Ddays

Hooked
BigBad408 said:
I'm not putting on larger tires than I have now and the only steering components that end up in the frame are the flipped drag link (which is the big topic of discussion here).

Right now regardless if I do a 3" lift, 6" lift or 450" lift, if my upper bump stops stay in the same location, my tires and other components still STOP at the same location.

IF i go to larger tires I need to extend the upper bumpstop
If I flip the drag ling I need to extend the bumpstop

If I just lift it the bump stop does not need to extend. The problem I am trying to solve is why there is not a better engineered solution than flipping the drag link and subsequently having to add bumpstop? That's it. Not if I have bigger tires or I flip the drag link or if if if...

It's called innovation. Looking for a better answer and trying to understand if someone has already had the same thought process and ruled it out via sound logic and thought.
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Oh boy, I don't even know where to start on answering this..

No one ever adds upper bumpstop - what in the hell is that? You always add bumpstop to the axle pad. As far as innovation, boy, you're right. None of us dummies ever looked for better answers or thought of that sound logic thingie :rolleyes2:

Carry on....
 
Bierpower

Bierpower

Hooked
BigBad408 said:
:eek:But that's exactly what I'm trying to do! Overthink it! You may be very right and I may be miles up the wrong tree...and I will likely arrive precisley nowhere with a flipped track bar and 3" bumpstop extension. But while I'm up in the tree I'm going to kick it and see if anything falls out.
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The other reason for the added bump stop is shock length. The tube of a shock can not be less than the length of the rod so longer shocks means longer tubes meaning longer compressed length. Without an extended bumpstop you run the risk of bottoming (over-compressing) your shocks. If you lift and keep stock shocks, you can keep all of your up travel but you will limit down travel. With longer shocks you limit up travel and gain that down travel. The " bump stop based on " lift is a good margin to get a happy medium of loss in up and gain in down travel.
Also depending on lift hight and how much up travel you try to maintain, you could bind your coils. I'm not 100%, but if I remember correctly, binding a coil ruins the spring and it should be replaced if it ever happens.

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WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
I think that you're waaayyyy overthinking this. You've already said which kit you've set your mind on. On Clayton's website, they show 3.25 inch bump stop extensions for that kit. So regardless if you do a drag link flip or not, that kit includes those and they will need to be installed.

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BigBad408

New member
BaddestCross said:
Still trying to figure out if you even need to flip the drag link in the first place. Are you experiencing bump steer right now?

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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
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Right now with the current build I do not have bump steer. It's on road and moderate speed off road manners are amazing. With the 3.5 I plan on doing it seems to be a coin toss whether I will end up with it or not. I can "wait and see" and all it will cost me is a replacement OEM trackbar (the stock one also bent with the axle). Just looking to see if there are any other options out there.
 
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BigBad408

New member
WJCO said:
I think that you're waaayyyy overthinking this. You've already said which kit you've set your mind on. On Clayton's website, they show 3.25 inch bump stop extensions for that kit. So regardless if you do a drag link flip or not, that kit includes those and they will need to be installed.

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Thanks. I have seen that. As mentioned earlier I am going with King 2.0's for bump stops, so Clayton's will not be used. Bumpstop height will be set by articulating the suspension and setting the stops at the appropriate height. If that ends up being 3.25" so be it.
 
QuicksilverJK

QuicksilverJK

Caught the Bug
Without trying to sound like an asshole. You seem awfully upset that "someone" hasn't designed something "better" like you would design it. Perhaps you should go out and do what you assume is the better way, and let us all know how it turns out. Someone has to be the first to do everything.[emoji482]


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BigBad408

New member
QuicksilverJK said:
Without trying to sound like an asshole. You seem awfully upset that "someone" hasn't designed something "better" like you would design it. Perhaps you should go out and do what you assume is the better way, and let us all know how it turns out. Someone has to be the first to do everything.[emoji482]


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Not asshole-ish at all. I'm not upset, just perplexed. And like I said, I may very well take a pitman arm or drag link to a local specialty fabricator and say "I want to do something dumb, will you help me?" :rock:
 
fiend

fiend

Caught the Bug
I’m not sure why you’re focusing on the pitman arm. A drop arm will over stress your steering box. And the interference between the flipped drag link and frame is on the other side of the Jeep, so a drop pitman arm probably won’t solve it anyway.


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A.J.

A.J.

Active Member
Well you can always just do an adjustable track bar with an adjustable drag link and no bump stops at all. It will allow you to do exactly what you want. Won't bottom out on the frame,will still be parallel to each other and still allow you to center axle and steering wheel at ride height. You can even use adjustable control arms to get caster correct. It will probably drive ok and have all the travel your shocks will allow. I promise you however when you drive one with exactly the same lift but with flip and raised track bar you will feel the difference it makes in roll center. On road and off road. You can't beat physics no matter how hard you try. As far as travel goes get the longest body shocks you can that don't bottom out at whatever bump stop size you choose and the difference between the shocks compressed length and extended length will be your total travel.


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