Real advise on 37's

[wayoflife]

Ahh ok, makes sense. Thanks for the info!

So, this was my next question. Correct me if i'm wrong, but isn't that what you're running on Rubicat? a 44/60 combo?

EDIT: beat me to it^^^

Yup. Running a ProRock 44 with Rubicon internals up front and a full float ProRock 60 in the rear. I am running wheels with a 5x5.5 bolt pattern and wheel adapters up front to make it possible and to help widen the front end up. So that there is no confusion, this 44/60 "combo" isn't the same things as a "HYBRID" 44/60. The latter is a ProRock 44 with 60 end forgings and knuckles.

You can see the wheel adapters here.

 

[wayoflife]

This is a hybrid 44/60. As you can see, the differential is still a ProRock 44 but the end forgings and knuckles are 60's and it also has locking hubs.

 

[iClimbthings]

This is a hybrid 44/60. As you can see, the differential is still a ProRock 44 but the end forgings and knuckles are 60's and it also has locking hubs.

Interesting, thanks for the clarification. Like you said, I think at that point i'd rather just go with a true 60.

 

[BlackDiamond_JKU]

This is a hybrid 44/60. As you can see, the differential is still a ProRock 44 but the end forgings and knuckles are 60's and it also has locking hubs.

What was their reasoning behind designing this.
I've always been curious since you could do a 60 for a little more, and have a stronger R&P



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[BlackDiamond_JKU]

Oh and as advised by Eddie, don't dump money into a "Rubi44" front axle.
I've done it twice*, it's a waist, just do the PR44, you will NEVER, get that stock "44" as strong as a PR44.



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[wayoflife]

What was their reasoning behind designing this.
I've always been curious since you could do a 60 for a little more, and have a stronger R&P

Clearance. A ProRock 44 housing is a LOT smaller than a 60 and if you want a low stance like I did, you'd need a smaller housing to prevent it from hitting the oil pan at a full bump. Of course, this isn't something that most people would need or even care for.

 

[BlackDiamond_JKU]

Clearance. A ProRock 44 housing is a LOT smaller than a 60 and if you want a low stance like I did, you'd need a smaller housing to prevent it from hitting the oil pan at a full bump. Of course, this isn't something that most people would need or even care for.

Ohhhkay, yeah, that makes sense
Didn't think about that



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[VeruGE*144]

honest opinion

If you're not playing too hard, you should be able to make your factory Rubicon front axle last with 37's. Gussets are nice to have but sleeves, trusses or what have you wont really is no stopping it from bending and really, it's not that big of a deal. Not like a bent housing is going to leave you high and dry. You can definitely get by with 4.10 gears and while it's not stellar, it can be tolerable. Trust me, I've done it for over a year. If anything, your driver side shaft will be the first to go and that can be a problem a real problem on the trail. But, even at that, I personally would just wait until you need to replace it with something better. All in all, I personally wouldn't throw more money at your factory axle than you need to and would just play with it until you need or can afford to upgrade it to something like a ProRock 44. That's what I did and the best part is, you can get a ProRock 44 housing that will accept ALL your Rubicon axle components making the upgrade a lot cheaper.

I like your honest opinion wayoflife!! if you look on other forums, everybody will tell you that you need to upgrade pretty much everything underneath there and weld on bunch of unnecessary parts and after reading all of that crap you are left worried that you need to get all that done, and if you are not doing 'all that' yourself you are in for a lot of $$$$ for services. I was once in those shoes, trying to believe everything I read online. I wish I signed up with Wayalife long time ago, I would have done some things much different than I did on my rubicon.
I need c gussets myself, I found a guy on this forum that is willing to help me out with this, at a reasonable price of course. I'll rather save my money for better axle.
Nice people here :rock:

Thanks!!!

 

[Blackhawkip]

I like your honest opinion wayoflife!! if you look on other forums, everybody will tell you that you need to upgrade pretty much everything underneath there and weld on bunch of unnecessary parts and after reading all of that crap you are left worried that you need to get all that done, and if you are not doing 'all that' yourself you are in for a lot of $$$$ for services. I was once in those shoes, trying to believe everything I read online. I wish I signed up with Wayalife long time ago"
Nice people here :rock:

Thanks!!!

^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Isn't this the truth!! I read several forums, gather insight from each, learn new things, but the same thought of "go big or go home" is everywhere. I'd love to build a Jeep with all the latest and greatest on it from Dynatrac, EVO, ICON, Teraflex, etc. but like most everyone else, I have a other "priorities" (dang house, kids, wife, job, and even the dog!). I've spent 3 years building my JKU Rubicon by researching, deciding what I need, then waiting for the right deal to come along. I've learned to appreciate the Journey in the quest of building the right Jeep for me.

 

[VeruGE*144]

I am running ProSteer ball joints but I was running them on my factory axle too. I'm surprised that more people don't know about this affordable option.

How critical is it to upgrade your ball joints. I am at about 50k mile with about 20k of that with 37's. Still running stock. I just checked today and there isn't any play in any of them, I do have a squeak when turning the steering wheel that has been on and off for last year now, I can't really figure out where its coming from. I have been looking at Prosteer ball joints, are they really that good and supposedly will last forever? I also assume I can take them out and install in new axle when that time comes?
I am planning to gusset the c's in next few weeks, should I just get the ball joints done at the same time? I found a guy that claims he can weld the gussets on without destroying balljoints, and by looking at his own build I really believe that he CAN (NecessaryEvil) !!!!! I don't want to spend money if I don't have to anymore...... please chime in

 

[JKDream]

How critical is it to upgrade your ball joints. I am at about 50k mile with about 20k of that with 37's. Still running stock. I just checked today and there isn't any play in any of them, I do have a squeak when turning the steering wheel that has been on and off for last year now, I can't really figure out where its coming from. I have been looking at Prosteer ball joints, are they really that good and supposedly will last forever? I also assume I can take them out and install in new axle when that time comes?
I am planning to gusset the c's in next few weeks, should I just get the ball joints done at the same time? I found a guy that claims he can weld the gussets on without destroying balljoints, and by looking at his own build I really believe that he CAN (NecessaryEvil) !!!!! I don't want to spend money if I don't have to anymore...... please chime in

You don't need to upgrade them if there's no play in your current joints.
ProSteers are a good investment in the sense they are rebuildable.
In terms of lasting forever, they do wear as does every joint, but as mentioned you can rebuild these - and cheaper than it would be to replace a set.
You can put them in your current axle and swap them to a new axle. However - unless yours are worn out I would wait for the axle upgrade to avoid doing the job twice.
I currently run Synergys as they were what I could get at the time, and will be using ProSteers for my next set.
Quite a few other aftermarket options have had multiple issues out of the box, a quick search of Synergy BJs will explain what I'm getting at.

TLDR; worth it? yes

 

[OhNoTheJiggies]

Other than a slightly larger penis, no, no issues at all. You may have to shorten the front driveshaft though.

In that case I'll do it!


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[OhNoTheJiggies]

Yup. For one, your front axle will be much wider than your rear. For two, you current wheels won't fit on your new 60. If you get new wheels, you can run wheel adapters in the rear to make them work and it will widen things up there but then, you can only do this if you go with a 5x5.5 bolt pattern. Of course, if you try to wheel your Jeep, your rear axle won't last long. At least, it didn't for me back when I tried to run this exact setup. Maybe 2 months or about 9 trips to the mall.

Sweet... I don't know about the 5x5.5 but worst case I'll figure it out if it comes down to doing one axle at a time


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[VeruGE*144]

If I do eventually break my factory shaft on the trail or what not. Can I remove the broken shaft and still be able to drive my jeep home? Or should I always carry 4 extra shafts with me since I have a rubicon? Lol


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[JKDream]

If I do eventually break my factory shaft on the trail or what not. Can I remove the broken shaft and still be able to drive my jeep home? Or should I always carry 4 extra shafts with me since I have a rubicon? Lol


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You can still drive it home. Just make sure you plug the tube that had the shaft break so gear oil doesn't spill. Also note, if you break one side, you are much more likely to break the other side. With that said, if you break a front shaft try not to drive it out in 4wd.

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[wayoflife]

If I do eventually break my factory shaft on the trail or what not. Can I remove the broken shaft and still be able to drive my jeep home? Or should I always carry 4 extra shafts with me since I have a rubicon? Lol


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Up front, you can pull the broken shaft and still drive assuming you weren't going stupid on the skinny pedal and didn't take out your ball joints. Obviously, it'll be harder to get over obstacles without 4WD but that's why you wheel with friends. In the rear, you're not likely to break a shaft - at least, I haven't seen any break. You are likely to bend a flange but that won't leave you high and dry. If you can only carry one shaft, you should carry a driver side front shaft as it's the most common shaft to break. I don't typically carry rear shafts.

 

[deezus]

If you're not playing too hard, you should be able to make your factory Rubicon front axle last with 37's. Gussets are nice to have but sleeves, trusses or what have you wont really is no stopping it from bending and really, it's not that big of a deal. Not like a bent housing is going to leave you high and dry. You can definitely get by with 4.10 gears and while it's not stellar, it can be tolerable. Trust me, I've done it for over a year. If anything, your driver side shaft will be the first to go and that can be a problem a real problem on the trail. But, even at that, I personally would just wait until you need to replace it with something better. All in all, I personally wouldn't throw more money at your factory axle than you need to and would just play with it until you need or can afford to upgrade it to something like a ProRock 44. That's what I did and the best part is, you can get a ProRock 44 housing that will accept ALL your Rubicon axle components making the upgrade a lot cheaper.

This. I did gussets and sleeves but no truss as i was advised against it, can remember why, but,at the time reasoning sounded right. Im stati g at 37. Im gonna do RCV shafts and Reid knuckles on my my stock axle because when i go with the prorock44 i can re use them. At least thats my plan now....

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[deezus]

Gussets should be about $60 plus welding fee from shop. Not a couple hudred bucks.

My shop charged me 950 to do gussets and sleeves and new ball joints. Oh and LCA skids in the front.

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[deezus]

The Rubicon front axle is a Dana 44 in name only and mainly because of the differential and axle shafts used. The axle tubes are only 2.5" in diameter just like a Dana 30 and the end forgings are exactly the same as a Dana 30 too. The rear axle is a true Dana 44 in that it has 3" diameter tubes. That being said, you're kidding yourself if you think that'll hold up to 40's let alone being pushed by an LS.

Haha i wanna see that on cadillac hill...

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[deezus]

It's what I'm running in Rubicat right now. ProRock 44 front axle with ALL my factory Rubicon parts. e-Locker, shafts and knuckles. I am running ProSteer ball joints but I was running them on my factory axle too. I'm surprised that more people don't know about this affordable option.

Sometimes i hate reading these threads....they cost me money

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