Squeak in front right

[cozdude]

May not have to do with the problems you're having. But since you are running an aftermarket wheel, I'd suggest you remove the retaining clip(s). It's what you see here in the lower right^^^. That can cause your wheel to not seat properly/flush. Stock wheels are recessed there so they snug up tight, but not aftermarkets.

Again, may/may not be the cause of the issue, but something you'll want to take care of on all four.

interesting i didnt know that, thanks i will take them off!

i hope it helps! its just weird to me how it is now just recently doing this (that im aware of at least). i have had this same set of wheels for about 20,000 miles now. :thinking:

 

[Moochie]

May not have to do with the problems you're having. But since you are running an aftermarket wheel, I'd suggest you remove the retaining clip(s). It's what you see here in the lower right^^^. That can cause your wheel to not seat properly/flush. Stock wheels are recessed there so they snug up tight, but not aftermarkets.

Again, may/may not be the cause of the issue, but something you'll want to take care of on all four.

Good eye Jason!

 

[hinrichs]

just a thought, that wheels offset could be slightly off since its a steel wheel. Doubt it but It could be the issue and since you just rotated it could have fit in the back or something perfectly but not up front.

 

[David1tontj]

I have had unit bearings come loose on my rig... And it caused this exact problem... My wheel started to scrape against the back of the caliper and after further inspection, I found that it was the unit bearings.... I fixed both sides and took a little off the calipers with a grinder while I was at it.

I would take the grinder to the back of your caliper just a little...

the fact that you've gone 25,000 miles with these wheels and no squeak tells me that something has changed.. If tolerances were tight before, and now you have a loose unit bearing (even if it's only slightly loose) that would explain it.... Especially since it's only doing it on one side...



05 Tj, long arm, one ton, lockers, winches, 39.5" Iroks

 

[cozdude]

I have had unit bearings come loose on my rig... And it caused this exact problem... My wheel started to scrape against the back of the caliper and after further inspection, I found that it was the unit bearings.... I fixed both sides and took a little off the calipers with a grinder while I was at it.

I would take the grinder to the back of your caliper just a little...

the fact that you've gone 25,000 miles with these wheels and no squeak tells me that something has changed.. If tolerances were tight before, and now you have a loose unit bearing (even if it's only slightly loose) that would explain it.... Especially since it's only doing it on one side...



05 Tj, long arm, one ton, lockers, winches, 39.5" Iroks

damn! i was hoping you and eddie were wrong and this wasnt the issue :cheesy:

was it an easy fix? if its something that is easy i may attempt it myself instead of having to pay someone to do it.

 

[cozdude]

so this is the part i would need?

http://www.quadratec.com/products/56207_1035.htm

 

[wayoflife]

damn! i was hoping you and eddie were wrong and this wasnt the issue :cheesy:

was it an easy fix? if its something that is easy i may attempt it myself instead of having to pay someone to do it.

Yes, it is an easy fix especially on a JK. You will most likely have to get a couple of new tools like a socket (IIRC, 36mm) for your hub nut and a 12 point 13mm box wrench and an 8mm allen wrench if you don't already have them but otherwise, it's easy. I would start with the assembly washer though, they definitely need to go.

 

[wayoflife]

so this is the part i would need?

http://www.quadratec.com/products/56207_1035.htm

Yup :yup:. That is assuming this is your problem.

 

[cozdude]

I have had unit bearings come loose on my rig... And it caused this exact problem... My wheel started to scrape against the back of the caliper and after further inspection, I found that it was the unit bearings.... I fixed both sides and took a little off the calipers with a grinder while I was at it.

I would take the grinder to the back of your caliper just a little...

the fact that you've gone 25,000 miles with these wheels and no squeak tells me that something has changed.. If tolerances were tight before, and now you have a loose unit bearing (even if it's only slightly loose) that would explain it.... Especially since it's only doing it on one side...



05 Tj, long arm, one ton, lockers, winches, 39.5" Iroks

Yes, it is an easy fix especially on a JK. You will most likely have to get a couple of new tools like a socket (IIRC, 36mm) for your hub nut and a 12 point 13mm box wrench and an 8mm allen wrench if you don't already have them but otherwise, it's easy. I would start with the assembly washer though, they definitely need to go.

Yup :yup:. That is assuming this is your problem.

awesome! thank you both for your help with this. i will remove the washer first and see if that helps at all. if it doesnt then i will look into replacing the whole unit. will prob do both sides just to be safe if i do.

 

[David1tontj]

That looks right.. But you need to make sure yours is bad first. It should have some play in it if it's bad. You said you are getting new ball joints on Monday? Are you taking it somewhere for that? Can you have them look at it?

I don't have a jk, and on my d60 it is a spindle bearing.... Same function, but I think the unit bearing is going to be easier to fix..


05 Tj, long arm, one ton, lockers, winches, 39.5" Iroks

 

[cozdude]

That looks right.. But you need to make sure yours is bad first. It should have some play in it if it's bad. You said you are getting new ball joints on Monday? Are you taking it somewhere for that? Can you have them look at it?

I don't have a jk, and on my d60 it is a spindle bearing.... Same function, but I think the unit bearing is going to be easier to fix..


05 Tj, long arm, one ton, lockers, winches, 39.5" Iroks

yea taking to my guy that normally does stuff i dont want to do lol he is doing control arms and ball joints. he isnt a jeep guy but he still does really good work. all installs were great. he even make sure my sliders were almost perfectly in line with the body. <.5* off. i will ask him to look at it and see if he see's any play.
http://www.bradfabindustries.com/

i have no plan to replace this just yet. when i tried to test it to see if it was bad i didnt notice any difference from one side to the other. doing the ball joints and taking the washer thingy off as well before i do anything.

 

[David1tontj]

^good plan! Keep us informed


05 Tj, long arm, one ton, lockers, winches, 39.5" Iroks

 

[cozdude]

finally posting an update for those of you that helped me with this. i am finally getting my ball joints installed today/tomorrow. i found out that both front uppers were bad and the front right lower is going bad. i have had the ball joints for a while now but never had them installed lol i will let you know if the "squeak/grinding" comes back after the install.

 

[JayKay]

finally posting an update for those of you that helped me with this. i am finally getting my ball joints installed today/tomorrow. i found out that both front uppers were bad and the front right lower is going bad. i have had the ball joints for a while now but never had them installed lol i will let you know if the "squeak/grinding" comes back after the install.

Since the wheels are off, I'd check the brake pad thickness, inboard AND outboard pads. Sounds to me that the indicators on the pads may be rubbing the rotor. Just thought it's a quick check since the wheels would be off already.

 

[cozdude]

Since the wheels are off, I'd check the brake pad thickness, inboard AND outboard pads. Sounds to me that the indicators on the pads may be rubbing the rotor. Just thought it's a quick check since the wheels would be off already.

i am close to needing to replacing my pads but they are not the issue. they will be replaced in the next month or so tho since i know my rears need to be done sooner rather than later.

if you look back in the thread a little you will see my pic of where the inner part of my rim is rubbing on my caliper. We came to a conclusion that it was either the ball joints or the unit bearing. after testing my ball joints it was clear that they are part of the issue. since my front right upper is totally shot. the noise only occurs while driving and not while under breaking so i dont think its the pads.

 

[JayKay]

i am close to needing to replacing my pads but they are not the issue. they will be replaced in the next month or so tho since i know my rears need to be done sooner rather than later.

if you look back in the thread a little you will see my pic of where the inner part of my rim is rubbing on my caliper. We came to a conclusion that it was either the ball joints or the unit bearing. after testing my ball joints it was clear that they are part of the issue. since my front right upper is totally shot. the noise only occurs while driving and not while under breaking so i dont think its the pads.

Ok, but even if there's plenty of pad material present, most manufacturers put thickness indicators on the pads that stick about 2/32" past the steel backing of the pad. They begin to rub the rotor when the pads are worn to 2/32" or less. The squealing/squeaking will go away when the brakes are applied due to the applied pressure. Not saying this is your problem, but just a thought.

I wouldn't think the ball joints are the problem..,yes, they have movement...yes, they need to be replaced. But loose ball joints cause the whole knuckle to move, not just the hub. I would lean more towards a hub bearing (unit bearing).

 

[cozdude]

Ok, but even if there's plenty of pad material present, most manufacturers put thickness indicators on the pads that stick about 2/32" past the steel backing of the pad. They begin to rub the rotor when the pads are worn to 2/32" or less. The squealing/squeaking will go away when the brakes are applied due to the applied pressure. Not saying this is your problem, but just a thought.

ahhh ok i didnt know that they did that. they do need to be replaced anyway so i will look into them next as well.

I wouldn't think the ball joints are the problem..,yes, they have movement...yes, they need to be replaced. But loose ball joints cause the whole knuckle to move, not just the hub. I would lean more towards a hub bearing (unit bearing).

it most likely is the unit bearing but i thought i would just do a process of elimination and try the ball joints first. i cant tell if the bearing is bad even after researching how to check them. they will be next if the issue still exists.

 

[JayKay]

Here are a couple of photos for educational reasons.

 

[JayKay]

View attachment 66501 View attachment 66502

Here are a couple of photos for educational reasons.

A loose unit bearing can and will cause a squealing noise due to it causing the brake rotor to not being parallel to the pads.

 

[cozdude]

just an update. i replaced my rear pads over the weekend (was going to do the front but they were fine still) and the "squeak" that i heard has been gone since. im not crossing my t's or dotting my i's yet but it seems like that was my problem. i am going to hold onto the unit bearing i bought just incase it comes back but im hoping it doesnt.