Switch to Rubi or Upgrade my Sahara ?!?!

[Karlos30]

1. Keep your 35's, not a huge change up to 37's and your 35's will take you were you need to go.

2. Build the D30 with ARB locker, truss and c-gussets supports and good axles.

3. ARB Locker the rear and do the same Axle supports.

4. Re-gear when you put in lockers 4:88's would be fine IMO

5. Work on building up your suspension and wheel the hell out of it.





I have seen some Jeeps on 35's w/nice set up suspensions travel the same paths as those with larger tires and big axles. You can also work on giving your Jeep a diet, which isn't always easy depending on where you wheel and how long the trails are.

Down here in the south we don't have 5 mile long trails and can normally walk back to our trucks or camp site, not so much for those lucky guys in the West; sp they have to pack heavy in case they break.

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I like it, Keeping on 35" tire for a while would avoid me to upgrade rapidly to D44, I could stay on 35" and install locker and 4.88/4.56 gear If after I really want to swap for 37" I could sell my front D30 and I'm pretty sure that I would sell it fast with locker and 4.88/4.56 in my region...

That could be a good option !

Thanks

 

[BlueCopper]

I pondered this for a while about my 2010 Sahara......just ordered a 2014 Rubicon.

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[RUMMY]

Color ?


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[ORD JK]

Karlos30. I was in the same voat you're in. I have a '13 sahara 2dr and love it. I like the "luxury" part of it but over time it'll be a beast with the luxury I wanted.

I.Y.A.O.Y.A.S

 

[Serg5000]

I decided to keep my X and just upgrade the front axle to a D-44 with locker. I was patient. I found a Rubi front housing then found a stock Rubi locker with matching axles for less than $600. The housing was around the same price. I then had 5:13's put in it and just shoved it under as I was installing my RK 3.5" lift. I'm now running that setup on 37" Toyo's. I couldn't be happier.

 

[Holeshot]

I'm also in that boat, I knew I wanted a rubicon from the start, but I went with the budget instead of the dream. I have bought rubicon front and rear housing already geared with 4.88, C-gussets, HD balljoints etc. for 3000$

I you'd like to get a slower ratio in low range, just find a used rubi TC or get a rebuild from chrysler. It is on my list! around 2000$ rebuild like new. Next summer maybe.

 

[nmwranglerx]

I'm in the conversion boat as well. It's taken a while, but I swapped out my "x" t-case for a rubi and swapped in a rear rubi axle that was already geared to 5.13, chromoly shafts, beefier diff cover, and locker. Also put in a rubi sway bar in and have EVO no limits manual disconnect that I love. If you are patient you can find a lot of decent used parts for a good price. If you enjoy working on your jeep all the better. I picked up t-case for $750 and axle for $1150 just to give you a rough idea. In my research I found that it's cheaper to buy a whole axle with locker and gears u need than to re-gear and install locker. Next phase for me will be replace d30 front with pro-rock at which time I will also move to 37s. Have fun with your build.

 

[TeamFaust]

So those of you that swapped in the Rubi D44 into X/Sahara how did you decide to do the electrical connection for the lockers? I see two options:

a) Pick up the Rubi eLocker harness and replacement Rubi switch set (that has the lockers switch) for just under $200.

b) it seems to me that you could also just run 12v direct to the eLockers controlled by basic switches some in the cab. Guessing could run either one switch for both front and rear; or separate switches for front and rear so could lock or unlock independently (any advantage/disadvantage one way or the other?).

What did you guys do/recommend?

 

[MTG]

So those of you that swapped in the Rubi D44 into X/Sahara how did you decide to do the electrical connection for the lockers? I see two options:

a) Pick up the Rubi eLocker harness and replacement Rubi switch set (that has the lockers switch) for just under $200.

b) it seems to me that you could also just run 12v direct to the eLockers controlled by basic switches some in the cab. Guessing could run either one switch for both front and rear; or separate switches for front and rear so could lock or unlock independently (any advantage/disadvantage one way or the other?).

What did you guys do/recommend?

I think Ricky (notajerryskid) did this recently. If he doesn't post up, send hime a PM. :thumb:

 

[TeamFaust]

Thanks will stay tuned. good to keep the conversation going on the thread should others be looking for similar info. However will send a PM if nothing added, appreciate the reference.

 

[1BAMFR]

Build your Sahara!!!!!!!!!!

Make all of us non-Rubi owners proud!!!!!!!!!

 

[Webe]

It's was looking for an upgrade of my D30 or swaping it. Well once I was setled at keepint it, regearing + puting arb lockers on my d30 is about 5000$ and no chromoly shaft yet. I believe it's worth to invest on a PR44. Especially if you plan going to 37"

You got the shaft! I got CM shafts, ARB & g2 gears and a master rebuild kit for $1700.

 

[Holeshot]

So those of you that swapped in the Rubi D44 into X/Sahara how did you decide to do the electrical connection for the lockers? I see two options:

a) Pick up the Rubi eLocker harness and replacement Rubi switch set (that has the lockers switch) for just under $200.

b) it seems to me that you could also just run 12v direct to the eLockers controlled by basic switches some in the cab. Guessing could run either one switch for both front and rear; or separate switches for front and rear so could lock or unlock independently (any advantage/disadvantage one way or the other?).

What did you guys do/recommend?

made my own harness with contura rocker switches. Also used the position switch for the lower light on the switch, so i know when it is engaged.



note that the 30 amp fuse was temporary, a 10 amp fuse would be enough I thing, maybe 15.

 

[TeamFaust]

That looks good, you like how it s works? In hindsight anything you'd do different?

 

[Rebel JK]

made my own harness with contura rocker switches. Also used the position switch for the lower light on the switch, so i know when it is engaged.

<img src="http://wayalife.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41450"/><img src="http://wayalife.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41451"/><img src="http://wayalife.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41452"/>

note that the 30 amp fuse was temporary, a 10 amp fuse would be enough I thing, maybe 15.

This looks like a cool setup for the elock D44 rubi upgrade. Do you see any advantages to running front lockers seperately with rear not engaged? I thought there may be advantages to this.
In another thread Eddie said he tries to run front with the back in order to spred the load to not overload one axle or the other. This made me think again.

 

[Holeshot]

That looks good, you like how it s works? In hindsight anything you'd do different?

I do have changed the switch setup. These two switches are safety switch. So in order to turn the lockers on, I have to put those two switches on, and then with my ORE switch panel, I activate the lockers seperately. It's only a matter of security. I don't want to accidentaly put the lockers on while driving at speed.

This looks like a cool setup for the elock D44 rubi upgrade. Do you see any advantages to running front lockers seperately with rear not engaged? I thought there may be advantages to this.
In another thread Eddie said he tries to run front with the back in order to spred the load to not overload one axle or the other. This made me think again.

Sure there is! While crawling if I have a very sharp turn to do, I disengage the front. it makes it easier to do, and put less stress on the components. Also if I wheel in loose sandy trails, it handles better with only the rear locker engaged and gives you a little extra grip.

 

[Rebel JK]

I do have changed the switch setup. These two switches are safety switch. So in order to turn the lockers on, I have to put those two switches on, and then with my ORE switch panel, I activate the lockers seperately. It's only a matter of security. I don't want to accidentaly put the lockers on while driving at speed.

Sure there is! While crawling if I have a very sharp turn to do, I disengage the front. it makes it easier to do, and put less stress on the components. Also if I wheel in loose sandy trails, it handles better with only the rear locker engaged and gives you a little extra grip.

My bad. What i meant was to engage front while rear is not engaged. Dont know if theres certain situations where one would find this advantageous.

 

[SoCalDozer]

Karlos30. I was in the same voat you're in. I have a '13 sahara 2dr and love it. I like the "luxury" part of it but over time it'll be a beast with the luxury I wanted.

I.Y.A.O.Y.A.S

Off topic but I laughed when I read your sig. I didn't think I would ever see that outside of work.

 

[Holeshot]

My bad. What i meant was to engage front while rear is not engaged. Dont know if theres certain situations where one would find this advantageous.

ho in this case I really don't know :thinking: maybe if you broke the rear in the trail you still can get out of there.

 

[TeamFaust]

Rubi Axles in the garage, connectors on the workbench, now gotta decide on which method to wire up so can get the swap started...let's see between getting kid to school in ID and finishing the construction on the back patio hopefully I'll be able to get this going around the end of the month... my wife has no idea that her soon to be newly cover patio in the back is about to be converted into an axle shop :thumb: