Switch to Rubi or Upgrade my Sahara ?!?!

nmwranglerx

Caught the Bug
Sweeet, have fun with swap. I did mine in my driveway few months ago. Took our time so whole day affair even for one axle.
 
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TeamFaust

Member
Sweeet, have fun with swap. I did mine in my driveway few months ago. Took our time so whole day affair even for one axle.

Yep I was figuring it would be an all weekend ordeal to do both. Good thing for me is if something comes up and can't complete I have a little truck as a back-up I can use as a parts runner or daily driver for a few days if needed.


I read through your write up -- very helpful. Budget will likely dictate that I'll be doing a be doing a driveway swap as well.
What did you end up doing for your switch connections for the axles?
 
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TeamFaust

Member
I do have changed the switch setup. These two switches are safety switch. So in order to turn the lockers on, I have to put those two switches on, and then with my ORE switch panel, I activate the lockers seperately. It's only a matter of security. I don't want to accidentaly put the lockers on while driving at speed.

I was thinking the same thing. Considering using the same switches but placing next to them a covered safety switch that would need to be on to activated the two rocker switches.

So it you are using these two on the left side of dash, where are your diff on/off switches? A couple more pics maybe?
 

nmwranglerx

Caught the Bug
I bought rubi harness, cut connectors off with about 8" wire left on them. I spliced them to 16 gauge wire and ran wire along the passenger side of jeep inside wire loom and ziptied to factory loom. I already had a lower daystar panel installed, so I bought arb style switch and wired into that. Holeshot shared some wiring advice, so I wired man similar with lower light as on/off indicator
 

TeamFaust

Member
A Sahara with a 3" lift and 35's and stock axles will still perform nicely offroad!

Oh yah, I am always impressed with the off road capability of these vehicles!! Frankly the only reason I got the axles was because I was contemplating a regear to 5:13s when jumping up to the 35" tires and I was able to pick these up already outfitted with the 5:13 installed!
 

1BAMFR

New member
Oh yah, I am always impressed with the off road capability of these vehicles!! Frankly the only reason I got the axles was because I was contemplating a regear to 5:13s when jumping up to the 35" tires and I was able to pick these up already outfitted with the 5:13 installed!

Nice! I have lockers but try not to use them...I kinda like to think of them as insurance if I get in a jam. Makes obstacles more fun without them sometimes!
 

TeamFaust

Member
I bought rubi harness, cut connectors off with about 8" wire left on them. I spliced them to 16 gauge wire and ran wire along the passenger side of jeep inside wire loom and ziptied to factory loom. I already had a lower daystar panel installed, so I bought arb style switch and wired into that. Holeshot shared some wiring advice, so I wired man similar with lower light as on/off indicator

Thanks for the reply. That is basically where I'm at. Just considering the safety switch inline before the locker switches. I have the 2010 lower dash panel with the mesh net which I like for keeping small stuff from flying around (I know I sacrificed prime switch real estate for it). So now just considering where to locate the switches. Also assuming that I should run with relays for actual power to the lockers so need to place those somewhere safe. Huummmm
 

TeamFaust

Member
Nice! I have lockers but try not to use them...I kinda like to think of them as insurance if I get in a jam. Makes obstacles more fun without them sometimes!

I'm with you on not using the lockers unless needed. Looks like you started with same rig -- JKU Sahara.

I was ready to gusset the D30 and slip the 5:13 gears in front and rear until I came across this set of axles. Figured D44 upgrade upfront and gears already in place with eLocker bonus. Should be more than adequate for running 35" fairly hard and be good for 37's if I ever step them up (though not planning on it anytime soon).
 
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Rebel JK

New member
... my wife has no idea that her soon to be newly cover patio in the back is about to be converted into an axle shop.

This is hilarious! Sounds all too familiar. Much easier to beg for forgiveness a wise man once said. Did the C's come already gusseted? While you have em in the "shop" it would be a bit easier install.
 

TeamFaust

Member
... my wife has no idea that her soon to be newly cover patio in the back is about to be converted into an axle shop. This is hilarious! Sounds all too familiar. Much easier to beg for forgiveness a wise man once said.

Right!? ;)

... Did the C's come already gusseted? While you have em in the "shop" it would be a bit easier install.

Nope, but I was looking at another build and thinking that I might as well pick up a set and weld them in while it's sitting in the garage before installing... (not sure that my welder or my skills are up to the task) I sense a little welding get together coming
 

Rebel JK

New member
Right!? ;)



Nope, but I was looking at another build and thinking that I might as well pick up a set and weld them in while it's sitting in the garage before installing... (not sure that my welder or my skills are up to the task) I sense a little welding get together coming

Going to be installing mine this weekend as long as I get all of my honey do's done.
 

Holeshot

Banned
I was thinking the same thing. Considering using the same switches but placing next to them a covered safety switch that would need to be on to activated the two rocker switches.

So it you are using these two on the left side of dash, where are your diff on/off switches? A couple more pics maybe?

Here's a thread that talks about factory locker wiring.

http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?...Locker-Wiring&highlight=factory+locker+wiring

I posted my wiring diagram on that thread, but added ORE switch panel later.

2013-06-03 14.30.24.jpg

Here are my on/off switches.

2013-06-10 20.20.03.jpg 2013-06-10 20.50.27.jpg
 

Livin4Today

New member
Switch or not...

I bought my 2007 JKU Sahara not knowing anything about Jeeps except that I've wanted one most of my life. I had many conversations about how I was going to build my drivetrain and a year and a half later I now have a relatively bulletproof front-end. Of course I started out with a D-30, and geared up for my former 34" Toyos to 5.13 and added an Eaton e-locker I came across on Craigslist. I found that to be a very capable set-up as long as you're not driving crazy, and kept smart when locked up.

One of my conversations was with a company in Nebraske that will set-up a Ford HP D-44 to work with our ABS. They asked me how big of tires I'd be running and I told them I hoped to (and now) run 37" Toyos. At that point they said it I stayed with 35's the D-30 gusseted, sleeved or shouded/trussed and upgrade axles would be just fine, as they run that set-up out there. I reminded him about the differences in terrain in the mid-west and Pac NW and felt I needed a stronger set-up to which he agreed when adding that I wanted to run 37's.

My recent build-up; I found a heavily reinforced (double gusseted, externally clad and trussed) Rubicon D-44 housing (empty) on CL. I purchased 35 Spline RCV's, and a 35 Spline ARB, Synergy ball joints, 5.38 R&P, Solid Diff Covers, and finally a new Coast front driveshaft, all to the tune of about $3500. Had I been a saver (I'm not) I might had just ordered the Pro Rock 44 from Dynatrac, however, my choice was to acquire all my parts and do the build myself.

The outcome is very capable, I spent the last two weeks breaking in my new axle/gears in the Rimrock/Nile area of Washington. My Jeep is very capable even with only one locker in the front. My rear remains stock except for the gears and is next on my list to upgrade, which will include a similar setup, 35 Spline ARB, 35 spline G2 axles and a new rear driveshaft to make my drivetrain as tough as you can get in D-44's. The only addition beyond that may be a Rubicrawler to get me even lower for climbing and decents on the steeps. :thumb:

IMG_1633.jpg P7240304.jpg P7210265.jpg P7210266.jpg P7210270.jpg

You can see more about our Jeep (Julia) at www.Livin4Today.com;)
 

TeamFaust

Member
Switch or not...

I bought my 2007 JKU Sahara not knowing anything about Jeeps except that I've wanted one most of my life...

My recent build-up; I found a heavily reinforced (double gusseted, externally clad and trussed) Rubicon D-44 housing (empty) ...

The outcome is very capable, I spent the last two weeks breaking in my new axle/gears in the Rimrock/Nile area of Washington. My Jeep is very capable even with only one locker in the front. My rear remains stock except for the gears and is next on my list to upgrade, which will include a similar setup, 35 Spline ARB, 35 spline G2 axles and a new rear driveshaft to make my drivetrain as tough as you can get in D-44's. The only addition beyond that may be a Rubicrawler to get me even lower for climbing and decents on the steeps. :thumb:

You can see more about our Jeep (Julia) at www.Livin4Today.com;)

Now that is a pretty seriously reinforced D44, Nice!!


Any updates on the swap?

I finally think I have worked out how I want to run the wiring, need to get the parts ordered/picked-up. Thinking that while the front is sitting in the garage I'll follow RebelJK's lead (and Livin4Today's)and at least do C gussets. Contemplating truss as well. Unfortunately going to have to put it all aside for a bit as getting daughter off to school in ID and other non-JK projects that need attention first. Hopefully back into axle build and swap in about 3-4 weeks. UGH.
 

Holeshot

Banned
this is a ORE switch panel

www.offroadengineering.com


And for reinforcment, C-gussets are a must. Mine also have tube sleeves but it's because they were already equiped with it when I purchased them. Thruss are not that much necessary imo.
 
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