Synergy Drag Link falls/rotates forward after driving

[Learo2000GT]

Oh thank god I didn't see that. One last question. I am taking the old tie rod off the drag link and it's a bitch. The drag links are both left hand threads. Just for my own sanity I need to confirm I would turn the jam nut clock wise on the pitman arm side of the drag link


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[Jeepster nOOb]

I just threw on those synergy pucks on the tie rod ends and the drag link to knuckle end and they installed nicely - no more flipity flop. I have a regular dust boot on the pitman arm to drag link end - didn't need another rubber pick here because one is sufficient to absorb the flipping.


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[Randy Tadevich]

Sorry to bring back from the dead an old post but I am getting ready to install my synergy drag link in the stock position and came across this thread. In the stock position there is a ton of flop and my drag link runs on the toe rod a bit. I have read this is normal but I hate the look and was woundering if using a second locknut like the post above is sound advise. Thanks for all the help. Much appreciated

I installed mine in may-ish this year and it did have a jam nut with it. It still flops. I have noticed if it flops to much it causes a slight wobble in the wheel. I then have to fix the flop to get it to go away. I personally dont like the setup. Eventually I will change it out for a different vendor.

the synergy has more flop than normal, they make a misalignment boot that will cure it, IMO it works better than using a locknut as the misalignment boots are designed to address the extra flop

http://www.synergymfg.com/Synergy-Jeep-JK-Low-Misalignment-TRE-Dust-Boots-p-30965.html

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[Randy Tadevich]

I installed mine in may-ish this year and it did have a jam nut with it. It still flops. I have noticed if it flops to much it causes a slight wobble in the wheel. I then have to fix the flop to get it to go away. I personally dont like the setup. Eventually I will change it out for a different vendor.



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I forgot to mention, although its normal, there is a a level of ground clearance loss too. As we all know, every inch counts.

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[Learo2000GT]

I installed mine in may-ish this year and it did have a jam nut with it. It still flops. I have noticed if it flops to much it causes a slight wobble in the wheel. I then have to fix the flop to get it to go away. I personally dont like the setup. Eventually I will change it out for a different vendor.



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Got the tie rod end off that was a bitch. Had to pull out the 24 inch ass kicker. So what do u do to fix the flop. U said u have to fix the flop to get it go away. So when installing the drag link is there tips for positioning to offset the flipin flop in the stock position. Thanks again


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[Ddays]

I would invest in a set of these anti-flop washers for your tie-rod. They are a Synergy part number that is on their website. Replaces those stupid boots that the spring clip falls off of & lets the grease out:



I'd leave the drag link ends alone though. These aren't meant for it.

 

[Learo2000GT]

Well the good news is synergy doesn't have the stupid ass boots anymore. I think that was the ultimate cause of my TRE seizing. Now they have a hard rubber boot see picture


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[Randy Tadevich]

Got the tie rod end off that was a bitch. Had to pull out the 24 inch ass kicker. View attachment 237087 So what do u do to fix the flop. U said u have to fix the flop to get it go away. So when installing the drag link is there tips for positioning to offset the flipin flop in the stock position. Thanks again


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Its a bit difficult to explain, but I have loosen the driver side bolt and passenger side lock nut, rotate the rod up, but the rod ends down......I think. Then tighten everything. The tricky part is tightening the passenger side lock nut without the rod end rotating. Sorry if its not very well explained. But over time it flops or it gets smacked on a boulder and the cycle stars over.

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[Randy Tadevich]

I would invest in a set of these anti-flop washers for your tie-rod. They are a Synergy part number that is on their website. Replaces those stupid boots that the spring clip falls off of & lets the grease out:

View attachment 237091

I'd leave the drag link ends alone though. These aren't meant for it.

Do you know how well they work. Do they completely eliminate all rotation? I would think there should be some. But this might be the answer. Thanks for pointing this out Ddays.

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[Ddays]

No problem Randy and they work great. I've had them on mine for bout a year now. That photo isn't actually of mine but mine is identical. They eliminate enough of the rotation that it is no longer an issue. It allows full articulation and in my case holds the rod in place so it doesn't flop with my PSC steering cylinder.

 

[Journeyman]

the synergy has more flop than normal, they make a misalignment boot that will cure it, IMO it works better than using a locknut as the misalignment boots are designed to address the extra flop

http://www.synergymfg.com/Synergy-Jeep-JK-Low-Misalignment-TRE-Dust-Boots-p-30965.html

Why does this keep getting posted for the drag link. It's not for a drag link, it's for the tie rod. Totally different!


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[WJCO]

Oh thank god I didn't see that. One last question. I am taking the old tie rod off the drag link and it's a bitch. The drag links are both left hand threads. Just for my own sanity I need to confirm I would turn the jam nut clock wise on the pitman arm side of the drag link


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The jam nut will only thread on one way. Make sure you have it on before you thread the end into the draglink bar. Once you have the assembly adjusted to proper length and installed in the pitman arm, you turn the nut until it gets closer to the main bar and then torque the shit out of it.

Edit: Here's pics of mine with hi steer knuckles. No clearance issues. (Ignore the upper end, it's custom. I was just showing that the DL does not hit the tie rod).

 

[Ddays]

Yeah, the title says drag link but bout half the posts are talking bout the TRE's.
To clarify what I was referring to: Add anti-flop washers on the TRE's & leave drag link boots as is.

 

[jeeeep]

Why does this keep getting posted for the drag link. It's not for a drag link, it's for the tie rod. Totally different!


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it works on the knuckle and the drag link - they both use the same TRE. I had both synergy tie rod and drag link and used the misalignment boot on both.

Drag link only needs it on the knuckle end to control the flop.

 

[Cadima]

It's a ball and socket. It's supposed to do that. I don't see how a 2nd nut would change that. As far as rubbing the tie rod, I have hi steer knuckles and mine doesn't touch the tie rod.

The "ball and socket" are common to all tie rod ends and this is not the reason for complaints on Synergy drag link flop. There's a reason people keep complaining about this link in particular. The extra flop comes from the tie rod end threaded portion which does not lock and can spin within the bar even when everything is tightened. It has nothing to do with the ball and socket. There is no jam nut provided on the synergy drag link at the knuckle, just a pinch bolt to keep the adjustable length sleeve from rotating. The tie rod is still able to spin within this sleeve. Adding a jam nut as I explained removes this extra rotation and renders the link equivalent to the factory link which has the tie rod end pressed into a rigid bar. It doesn't remove flex that is intended to be there or impede the ball and socket. Flex should be provided from the ball and socket. I've had this nut on for years now with no issues. Last I checked Synergy stated NOT to use their tie rod flop fix of rubber bushings on their drag link as is restricted the ball and socket too much for the drag link articulation. Choose your own adventure.

 

[WJCO]

The "ball and socket" are common to all tie rod ends and this is not the reason for complaints on Synergy drag link flop. There's a reason people keep complaining about this link in particular. The extra flop comes from the tie rod end threaded portion which does not lock and can spin within the bar even when everything is tightened. It has nothing to do with the ball and socket. There is no jam nut provided on the synergy drag link at the knuckle, just a pinch bolt to keep the adjustable length sleeve from rotating. The tie rod is still able to spin within this sleeve. Adding a jam nut as I explained removes this extra rotation and renders the link equivalent to the factory link which has the tie rod end pressed into a rigid bar. It doesn't remove flex that is intended to be there or impede the ball and socket. Flex should be provided from the ball and socket. I've had this nut on for years now with no issues. Last I checked Synergy stated NOT to use their tie rod flop fix of rubber bushings on their drag link as is restricted the ball and socket too much for the drag link articulation. Choose your own adventure.

With the pinch bolt tightened on mine, neither the rod end nor the adjustment collar rotate at all on the lower end. I checked this on and off the jeep. So I guess I'm not familiar with that issue. The ball socket does rotate as it should on mine.

 

[Cadima]

Since the pinch bolt only locks the bar to the sleeve and doesn't interact with the rod end I am not sure why your rod end is not able to rotate. I have seen some after age lock up a bit but that's different.

 

[WJCO]

Since the pinch bolt only locks the bar to the sleeve and doesn't interact with the rod end I am not sure why your rod end is not able to rotate. I have seen some after age lock up a bit but that's different.

The bar has a slit and the collar has a slit. To me, it looks like when the pinch bolt is tightened, all 3 pieces are clamped together.

Here's a pic. When the pinch bolt is tightened, the main tube secures the collar and the collar clamps around the tie rod end. I just went out and checked again, mine moves as a unit, no slippage at the threads.

 

[Cadima]

I see your point and maybe the pinch bolt can be tightened enough but it didn't in my case, at least not within the torque limits I was comfortable applying to the pinch bolt. Usually, like is the case of the factory tie rod adjuster sleeve, the splits need to line up or the inner sleeve wont hold tight. So based on your feedback, the potential easy fix is to keep torquing the pinch nut until you cant rotate the tie rod end, if possible.

Oddly, the installation instructions tell you to torque it until the sleeve doesn't rotate with no mention of the rod end.

 

[WJCO]

I see your point and maybe the pinch bolt can be tightened enough but it didn't in my case, at least not within the torque limits I was comfortable applying to the pinch bolt. Usually, like is the case of the factory tie rod adjuster sleeve, the splits need to line up or the inner sleeve wont hold tight. So based on your feedback, the potential easy fix is to keep torquing the pinch nut until you cant rotate the tie rod end, if possible.

Oddly, the installation instructions tell you to torque it until the sleeve doesn't rotate with no mention of the rod end.

I wonder if they updated it then. I followed step 12 at 50ftlb and it's fine. But I do see what you are saying in regards to increasing torque in step 16. I wouldn't feel comfortable doing that either, 90 is a lot for that little bolt. So maybe I just lucked out.

http://www.synergymfg.com/instructions/PPM-8001_JK_DRAGLINK_INST_V16.pdf