TeraFlex JK 2.5" Coil Kit Questions

mudmobeeler

mudmobeeler

Caught the Bug
dotnetrob said:
Believe I may add a new front adjustable track bar and adjustable front lower control arms to compensate for the additional lift. But would welcome any advise or feedback.
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Let me ask you this: why do you feel the need for those? I'm not trying to be smart here. I'm seriously asking. I do not mean any offense here, I'm wondering if you know what those things do or if you feel like you need those because others have them. Sort of like your missing out on something.
 
dotnetrob

dotnetrob

Member
mudmobeeler said:
Let me ask you this: why do you feel the need for those? I'm not trying to be smart here. I'm seriously asking. I do not mean any offense here, I'm wondering if you know what those things do or if you feel like you need those because others have them. Sort of like your missing out on something.
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Nope, i don't know i need to add the track bar and arms, but have been told it may help extend the life of drive shaft and help correct the caster. But i am going to wait a week or so and see if the front comes down a bit. My new front bumper is on backorder, but hoping it brings the front down a bit too.
 
WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
dotnetrob said:
Nope, i don't know i need to add the track bar and arms, but have been told it may help extend the life of drive shaft and help correct the caster. But i am going to wait a week or so and see if the front comes down a bit. My new front bumper is on backorder, but hoping it brings the front down a bit too.
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If you have any driveline issues, it will be at the upper joint. The lower arms really only help your pinion angle for the lower joint. So IF you have driveline issues, I don't see the arms changing that, they will help your caster though. Buy a cheap angle finder and see where you're at first.
 
mudmobeeler

mudmobeeler

Caught the Bug
All the adjustable track bars do is recenter the axle side to side. So look at and measure to see if your front axle is centered. If it isnt and its off a lot or it bothers you then I would skip the track bar and do a drag link flip up front such as the one from EVO. It will cost more but if you gained 3 inches of lift or more then it will also address the steering. That kit will get your drag link and track bar back to being parallel by flipping your drag link to on top of the knuckle and moving the axle side mount for the track bar up and over. So you reuse you factory track bar. I would not add that though unless you got 3 inches of lift or more or you have steering issues. Like bump steer I believe.

Did you correctly measure your jeep to determine lift?

The adjustable lower control arms are recommended at the 3 inches mark because of flighty steering I believe. So they will dial your caster back in. That will change your pinon angle. Its recommended to get a new front driveshaft because of that as well as the steeper angle that it is now working in. Also you want the angles of the ujoints to be offset so that the driveshaft is turning in a smooth circle at the same speed as the yokes. Due to the angles of the U-Joints a double carden driveshaft is recommended to be able to get those angles. Also as your front axle droops out, the rubber/plastic boot of the factory one makes contact with the exhaust and tears the boot. You can also get tears/splits in the boots due to the working angles of it I believe.
 
C

CrazyLarry

New member
dotnetrob said:
My mistake, so what are the rear measurements and points I should measure from in the rear?
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Between bumpstop pad (lower) and the lip of bumpstop metal cup that holds the jounce (upper). Do not count the rubber jounce. Stock is around 5" between the two. If it measures 7" you got 2" of lift in the rear
 
Broke_JKowner

Broke_JKowner

New member
I've been running this lift with 5100 Bilstein shocks for 30,000 miles and no issues with the front drive shaft. I wheel regularly (not KOH or anything like that) Moab, Black Hills and reside in CO so when I say wheeling I don't mean flexing out at the mall.
I'm running the factory wheels and tires till they die then also going to 35's.
Just monitor the front driveshaft cv joint. Drive and enjoy your jeep.
Oh and haters gonna hate and trolls gonna troll.
 
dotnetrob

dotnetrob

Member
Liftdimensions.jpg

The front measured 21" for the shock measurement - so 2.5"
The front spring measured 11 3/4 - so 2.3.75"

Used the image/guide below to measure the rear.

Measured the rear at 7.25"

So looks like I may be sitting at 2.5" up front and 2.25" in the rear.

JeepJKRearHeight_zps51bde25d.jpg
 
Pyro1415

Pyro1415

New member
20k on mine. Those coils are pretty dense. When I installed my roughly 80lb bumper they might have dropped 1mm.

Run it till she blows up and if it ever does unbolt the front driveshaft and drive home. Not a big deal.
Shoot I've blown a rear driveshaft before on a different vehicle and I just took it off, put it in 4wd and drove around in fwd lol.
 
mudmobeeler

mudmobeeler

Caught the Bug
Pyro1415 said:
Run it till she blows up and if it ever does unbolt the front driveshaft and drive home. Not a big deal.
Shoot I've blown a rear driveshaft before on a different vehicle and I just took it off, put it in 4wd and drove around in fwd lol.
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Yep, twisted the rear driveshaft in two on a k5 blazer I use to have. Pulled it and drove home. Drove it around town for a few weeks. Checked the fluid in the case often as it would puke out the slip yoke. Had a buddy make me a shaft. Went out the next weekend, blew up the front shaft. [emoji20] lol.
 
Pyro1415

Pyro1415

New member
mudmobeeler said:
Yep, twisted the rear driveshaft in two on a k5 blazer I use to have. Pulled it and drove home. Drove it around town for a few weeks. Checked the fluid in the case often as it would puke out the slip yoke. Had a buddy make me a shaft. Went out the next weekend, blew up the front shaft. [emoji20] lol.
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Mine was a tracker lol failed u joint. Blew up going 80 down the interstate, scared the hell out of me. But yeah I just shoved a rag in the t case hole plus some duck tape to keep it from going in to far so the fluid wouldn't pour out.
 
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