WJCO
Meme King
Weld a washer over it. Tighten the bolt with the new washer down. Tack weld the washer. Then pull the bolt back out, move the track bar out of the way, and then weld the washer the rest of the way.
It's ugly but it works.
The Build of NABOO the Starfighter JK
- Thread starter M_Savage
- Start date
Weld a washer over it. Tighten the bolt with the new washer down. Tack weld the washer. Then pull the bolt back out, move the track bar out of the way, and then weld the washer the rest of the way.
It's ugly but it works.
M_Savage
Caught the Bug
Neither the bracket or the track bar appear to be oval enough for this. They both look to have as much moment as a washer would..
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JeepJeep75
New member
I saw the video you sent me. Just so everyone else knows, there is what looked like about one quarter inch of end movement between the trackbar and the frameside trackbar mount. The bolt doesn't move, it's the trackbar itself moving back and forth as someone moves the steering wheel. Maybe this is not the original trackbar? Either way Mike, I think you need a new factory trackbar.
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WJCO
Meme King
M_Savage
Caught the Bug
Thanks Geoff. thats what i though. working on this now.
by the way how do i post a video so others can see what i have sent you?
Thanks WJCO!
WJCO
Meme King
M_Savage
Caught the Bug
Tonight I test fit the majority of the rock hard sports cage. Probably would have finished the test fit if it wasn't for the grab bar on the passenger side. The bolt must have seized up because it appears I broke the threaded insert and the bolt now just spins...
so because if this I ended up having to cut it off. But not before I spent an hour or more trying to get it out.
Now onto the install
The passenger didn't require and trimming of the dash but the driver side did.
I also got the upper crossbar in but i finished in the dark. More pictures for tomorrow.
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so because if this I ended up having to cut it off. But not before I spent an hour or more trying to get it out. Now onto the install
The passenger didn't require and trimming of the dash but the driver side did.
I also got the upper crossbar in but i finished in the dark. More pictures for tomorrow.
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M_Savage
Caught the Bug
M_Savage
Caught the Bug
Is it normal for my steering wheel to turn this much when taking out and replacing a track bar?
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Last edited:
AZ Explorer
Caught the Bug
Depending on how much it pushed the axle over, its possible. Maybe your old one was bent as well as worn?
fiend
Caught the Bug
Mine looks pretty much like that, with no DW. It's a rubber bushing, so there will be flex. Have you checked your ball joints?
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M_Savage
Caught the Bug
Would you mind sending me a video? Not sure I believe it. Hahaha. Seems like a lot of movement. I'll pm you my number.
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I was going to try and check my balljoints tonight but ran out of time with the cage and remembered I don't have a crow bar. Should do this soon.
But I'm not too worried about the BJs. They are Dynatrac and have about 13k miles on them.
JeepJeep75
New member
Dude, that sucks about the broken bolt. Major frustration right there!![emoji35] I'll have to take a look at mine. Like Fiend said though, it's a rubber bushing. I'm sure it's gonna have some give to it.
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It's far from the ideal solution and should never be done long term but for now, set your toe out by just a bit and this will help prevent any more episodes of death wobble. The movement you're seeing in your track bar bushing looks normal to me - it is after all, just rubber and there will be some movement in it. Being that you have new ball joints installed, I doubt that's your problem but then, it wouldn't hurt to check them just in case. You will need a dial indicator to see if you're getting enough movement to be a problem. Also, your unit bearings could be fried and they will cause enough movement to cause death wobble.
M_Savage
Caught the Bug
To answer your question the bushing hardly looks worn and the track bar didn't look bent at all. I should try and take measurement to see if there is a difference.
Here is the track bar. I think this looks in good shape:
And this is the new and old side by side
Also if anything I would thing my drag link is bent from playing in the rocks lately.
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fiend
Caught the Bug
Sounds like track bar is not your issue, assuming the axle side hole is not ovalized. I know you said your ball joints are new, but I would check nonetheless. Also, as I recall, you don't run a stabilizer. I know it's doctrine around here that a stabilizer is a bandaid for DW, but sometimes a bandaid is better than a weeping sore. Maybe try putting yours back on and see if it helps.
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M_Savage
Caught the Bug
Few updates on the DW issue. With very little time after work everyday I can only do so much.
Got a new grade 8 bolt to try and account for a larger hole in the frame mount if it was infact wallowed out. Doesn't seem like it's any bigger than the stock bolt, but the size is 9/16th.
However the new track bar still moves like it did even with this larger bolt. After this I re-torqued everything!! All front, rear, upper, and lower control arms. Did find a few slightly loose which doesn't surprise me entirely since I haven't re-torqued since the axle swap. The worst bolt was frame mount rear track bar. This was very loose and had play before I torqued it back up.
Also found this:
Driver side, frame mount, upper control arms
Passenger side same bolt
Does anything with the bushings look like it needs to be replaced?
Also checked the ball joints..... passenger seem fine but drive have a slight play. Not sure how much without a dial indicator. But I remember a write I believed Eddie did and said something like: if it moves enough to see it then it most likely needs to be replaced. Can anyone confirm this?
Lastly I checked the toe in measurements.
Front part of tire: 68" 13/16
Rear part of tire: 69" 1/8
By my good friends, jeepjeep75 calculations. I have a toe in of 1/4" and it should only be 1/8". So I'm too toed and basically cross eyed with my front tires. I should be getting my new tie rod ends tomorrow so I'll work on adjusting the toe maybe Friday.
All feedback and thoughts are welcome! This is hard to diagnose alone!!
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Got a new grade 8 bolt to try and account for a larger hole in the frame mount if it was infact wallowed out. Doesn't seem like it's any bigger than the stock bolt, but the size is 9/16th.
However the new track bar still moves like it did even with this larger bolt. After this I re-torqued everything!! All front, rear, upper, and lower control arms. Did find a few slightly loose which doesn't surprise me entirely since I haven't re-torqued since the axle swap. The worst bolt was frame mount rear track bar. This was very loose and had play before I torqued it back up.
Also found this:
Driver side, frame mount, upper control arms
Passenger side same bolt
Does anything with the bushings look like it needs to be replaced?
Also checked the ball joints..... passenger seem fine but drive have a slight play. Not sure how much without a dial indicator. But I remember a write I believed Eddie did and said something like: if it moves enough to see it then it most likely needs to be replaced. Can anyone confirm this?
Lastly I checked the toe in measurements.
Front part of tire: 68" 13/16
Rear part of tire: 69" 1/8
By my good friends, jeepjeep75 calculations. I have a toe in of 1/4" and it should only be 1/8". So I'm too toed and basically cross eyed with my front tires. I should be getting my new tie rod ends tomorrow so I'll work on adjusting the toe maybe Friday.
All feedback and thoughts are welcome! This is hard to diagnose alone!!
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WJCO
Meme King
If your track bar bolt is torqued properly, it shouldn't move at all. A 9/16" bolt is 14.3 mm, so just barely larger than the stock 14mm.
That upper control arm, the bushing has shifted out. Definitely replace that one, now would be a good time to get a set of aftermarket Johnny Joint adjustable arms if you're considering it.
As far as ball joints, spec allowed is .055 - .060 which is about 1/16" . Aren't the ball joints new?
That upper control arm, the bushing has shifted out. Definitely replace that one, now would be a good time to get a set of aftermarket Johnny Joint adjustable arms if you're considering it.
As far as ball joints, spec allowed is .055 - .060 which is about 1/16" . Aren't the ball joints new?
Replacing the track bar bolt didn't do anything because unlike some choose to believe, it is never the problem. So long as your bolt is tightened to the proper torque spec, there is no need for a bigger bolt.
The driver side control arm bushing does look like it may be blown. I would pull it and replace if that can be confirmed.
1/4" of toe-in is a lot of toe but not enough that it'd lead to death wobble. Still, I would bring that closer to 1/16" as that is optimal.
While your ball joints should be fine, it wouldn't hurt to verify as much. If you have a dial indicator, it will be the best way to measure ball joint play. Here what you do:
1. From the axle, use a good floor jack to lift one of your tire off the ground. If you don't have a good floor jack, set your axle on a jack stand to hold it up securely in place.
2. From the side, place a long pry bar under the tire and have someone lift it up and down while you watch the lower ball joint for axial (up and down) movement. Any movement more than 0.050" is too much and would indicate that your ball joint is bad. Of course, if you can see this movement with your eyes, it's definitely bad.
3. Next, grab the tire at the 12 and 6 o'clock position and try to rock it back and forth while you have someone watch the upper joint for any movement. Any radial (side-to-side) movement more than 0.060" is too much. Again, if you can see the movement with your eyes and without any dial indicator, it's probably bad as well.
The driver side control arm bushing does look like it may be blown. I would pull it and replace if that can be confirmed.
1/4" of toe-in is a lot of toe but not enough that it'd lead to death wobble. Still, I would bring that closer to 1/16" as that is optimal.
While your ball joints should be fine, it wouldn't hurt to verify as much. If you have a dial indicator, it will be the best way to measure ball joint play. Here what you do:
1. From the axle, use a good floor jack to lift one of your tire off the ground. If you don't have a good floor jack, set your axle on a jack stand to hold it up securely in place.
2. From the side, place a long pry bar under the tire and have someone lift it up and down while you watch the lower ball joint for axial (up and down) movement. Any movement more than 0.050" is too much and would indicate that your ball joint is bad. Of course, if you can see this movement with your eyes, it's definitely bad.
3. Next, grab the tire at the 12 and 6 o'clock position and try to rock it back and forth while you have someone watch the upper joint for any movement. Any radial (side-to-side) movement more than 0.060" is too much. Again, if you can see the movement with your eyes and without any dial indicator, it's probably bad as well.