That might work actually, talked to Jeremy this am and gonna try rotating clamp down first, then diff cover if it still doesn't clear, then we’ll see where we stand, maybe change clamp after that.How much space you need to clear the diff cover?
May be clamp with just the bolt going straight into it will work.
Thank Mike! Definitely wasn’t the easiest install but certainly gratifying.Great job getting that all done!Don’t have answers for the tie-rod/ram issue though, sorry.
nice work!Alright, back in the ground and rolling, think I got just about all the air out of it, felt great on the test drive, was pretty wild how responsive it is compared to how it was. I am running into a bit of a steering range issue, with how the attachment on the tie rod wants to sit, it hits the diff cover, I tried rotating it up but then the ram contacts the underside of the track bar bracket when turning passenger, so for now I have the steering bumps out and it leaves me about one inch of ram cycle on each end, which I really don’t like the feeling as I know it’s still pushing and you can feel it pushing but you barely feel it reach its end point.
I’m curious what you all would recommend, I’ll try to get a better pic tomorrow, but it’s pretty solid contact on the diff cover if I let it go that far. Was thinking I could go back to factory diff cover and see, or maybe a different tie rod clamp, also I’ve remembered reading about caster on here and Psc but not sure, so curious of any thoughts around caster in general or if it would help alleviate this issue and use the majority of my range. Pics don’t show the contact but just the set up. View attachment 432489View attachment 432490View attachment 432491View attachment 432492
thanks man! I need to look at it closer, but I think so being it’s a good bit thicker metalnice work!
Does the Revolution diff cover you have stick out further than the stock cover?
Reservoir was full, about and inch from top after the jeep was warm, I’ll check tomorrow when it’s cold again, should there be much fluctuations when it’s cold/warm with fluid? I assume it’s expands when hotter.Definitely check the reservoir. Fluid should be sitting just above the plate. I assume you have the re-breather on it too? If so, I would check it to make sure it's still mounted properly, top on and without any pinches in the line
is there an inline cooler? how's it mounted?Reservoir was full, about and inch from top after the jeep was warm, I’ll check tomorrow when it’s cold again, should there be much fluctuations when it’s cold/warm with fluid? I assume it’s expands when hotter.
I’ll definitely check my re-breather too and make sure it’s good.
Yes on the front between bumper and grilleis there an inline cooler? how's it mounted?
is it a single pass or dual pass?Yes on the front between bumper and grille
I’ll have to check and see if it’s dual or single, not sure, but I’ll definitely give that a tryis it a single pass or dual pass?
I have the dual pass on my JKU, but your description sounds similar, loosen the cooler and get the end that flows back into the reservoir higher than the inlet, and do the bleed process.
This should burp the air that can get trapped in the cooler
Yes there will be fluctuations when the fluid is warm vs cold. Like tire pressures always check fluids when coldReservoir was full, about and inch from top after the jeep was warm, I’ll check tomorrow when it’s cold again, should there be much fluctuations when it’s cold/warm with fluid? I assume it’s expands when hotter.
I’ll definitely check my re-breather too and make sure it’s good.
No noticeable air bubbles? you may have too much fluid and the sound you hear is the valve releasing pressure as the level rises, I'd try removing a small amount of the fluid if once it's warmed up if it's higher than the fill levelJust an update, this am, I checked the fluid level and it was certainly above the plate and about an inch and half below the threads on the inside- after sitting all night and cold. I checked the rebreather and took it apart, wiped off the inside valve, to make sure it was all clear and I think it looked fine. So I started it up and just a real quick burp sound that lasted about a second. I checked the fluid level with it running cold and kind looked like the fluid was more full in the reservoir than before starting. Haven’t had a chance to try Joel’s bleeding idea yet. I did noticed before starting, when unscrewing the cap on the reservoir there was like a pressure drawing sound that wasn’t like air pushing but kinda hard to explain. Maybe that normal, idk.
Yea no bubbles, that I can see, but I’ll give that a shot too.No noticeable air bubbles? you may have too much fluid and the sound you hear is the valve releasing pressure as the level rises, I'd try removing a small amount of the fluid if once it's warmed up if it's higher than the fill level



Do you have the one piece passenger axle shaft or still the two piece? If one, maybe it’s just because the gears are running full time like the rear. I believe there’s only the one outboard on the FAD box. When I had the one piece Carbon shaft, my seal leaked there all the time and I replaced it twice. It seems the JL’s will leak even with a good seal when a one piece shaft is used.Few updates- #1 I’ve had a passenger side axle seal leak since doing my front shaft, does anyone know if there is a seal on the differential at the passenger side of the tube or just more outboard by the FAD access point?
But more importantly I’ve been monitoring my fluid level and I noticed my front diff oil smelled really burnt, so I decided to change this weekend and here is how black it was. Probably only like 4k miles on this, no sign of metal and the diff looked fine but man it smells rancid. I filled up back up with fresh fluid and am going to run it a bit and monitor diff temp but seems real odd it would look and smell this bad in short time but gonna keep a close eye on it, any thoughts?
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Don’t mind the random grass that got in there afterwards lol..
Also, I think I narrowed down my noise at cold start from the steering - this fitting popped off it was so loose when I opened the reservoir last night..Tightened it down and started this am with no noise, gonna give it a try tomorrow am too, but hopefully the root of my sounds.
View attachment 438418
Few updates- #1 I’ve had a passenger side axle seal leak since doing my front shaft, does anyone know if there is a seal on the differential at the passenger side of the tube or just more outboard by the FAD access point?
But more importantly I’ve been monitoring my fluid level and I noticed my front diff oil smelled really burnt, so I decided to change this weekend and here is how black it was. Probably only like 4k miles on this, no sign of metal and the diff looked fine but man it smells rancid. I filled up back up with fresh fluid and am going to run it a bit and monitor diff temp but seems real odd it would look and smell this bad in short time but gonna keep a close eye on it, any thoughts?
View attachment 438417
View attachment 438419
Don’t mind the random grass that got in there afterwards lol..
Also, I think I narrowed down my noise at cold start from the steering - this fitting popped off it was so loose when I opened the reservoir last night..Tightened it down and started this am with no noise, gonna give it a try tomorrow am too, but hopefully the root of my sounds.
View attachment 438418

It’s a one piece shaft, but the 392 pretty much AWD so front is always turning. It has the fad cut out, used to be a 2 piece shaft like every other axle but not motor/fork. I’ll swap that seal out and see if I get luckyDo you have the one piece passenger axle shaft or still the two piece? If one, maybe it’s just because the gears are running full time like the rear. I believe there’s only the one outboard on the FAD box. When I had the one piece Carbon shaft, my seal leaked there all the time and I replaced it twice. It seems the JL’s will leak even with a good seal when a one piece shaft is used.