Thoughts on pricing?

Okay, so the “EP” stands for employee pricing. The “PP” stands for preferred pricing. As you can imagine, the employee pricing is their invoice and the preferred pricing is their target.

I got mine for just below employee pricing. I do not think this invoice shows the holdback figure, but you can ask.

doesnt the "MDH" mean "manufacturers dealer holdback"?
 

Kyle7R

New member
Thanks, I am thinking it may be best to just pay down the note over the next 2 months and start again....

This is the correct answer.

Have you considered not going brand spanking new for your new vehicle? Could afford yourself (and the seller) a little more wiggle room.
 

NevadaZielmeister

Caught the Bug
doesnt the "MDH" mean "manufacturers dealer holdback"?

No because holdback would likely be between $600 - $900 on this model. I doubt holdback would be more. I would read this article about invoice pricing:

http://www.clark.com/eye-opening-truth-about-dealer-invoice-price

It will open your eyes as to what we are not all seeing. They simply replaced the term "MSRP" with "Invoice", sneaky little bastards. So with this knowledge, you are free to negotiate. Heck, tell em you will probably want to wait for a couple of months to pay down your current loan, watch them squirm. They HATE stuff like that.

Good luck and let us know what happens.
 

highoctane

Caught the Bug
If you pay $100 for a Tread Lightly annual membership, you are guaranteed preferred pricing, which is 1% below invoice.
 

SoCalDozer

New member
honestly best way to determine trade in is go to auto trader and see what cars like yours are selling for with similar miles and options.
I traded in a 2015 Mini Cooper S a month back and got 2k less than KBB said because there isnt a high demand and dealerships were selling them retail for what my trade was valued at.
It can also be the opposite for some cars like used diesel trucks. KBB says one things but they are actually worth more.
 
View attachment 207413

He also sent this, how do I figure out the MDH and how it translates?

You are way over thinking this. The pertinent numbers on that invoice are listed below the Mdh number which is irrelevant. The ep stands for employee price and the pp stands for preferred price and works with programs like friends and family and the like. Do you see on the left side where it says destination charge? Right below that it say HB123100... Thats the holdback amount $1231.00. To figure out the actual true cost on the vehicle or in other words what they own it for you take the invoice amount (which I don't see... It should be at the bottom but looks like it got cut off) and you subtract the holdback and thats it (assuming they havent added anything aftermarket to the jeep like tint, etc)

You take that cost, subtract any applicable rebates or incentives and add about $500 for dealer profit and that is generally a fair deal.
 
You are way over thinking this. The pertinent numbers on that invoice are listed below the Mdh number which is irrelevant. The ep stands for employee price and the pp stands for preferred price and works with programs like friends and family and the like. Do you see on the left side where it says destination charge? Right below that it say HB123100... Thats the holdback amount $1231.00. To figure out the actual true cost on the vehicle or in other words what they own it for you take the invoice amount (which I don't see... It should be at the bottom but looks like it got cut off) and you subtract the holdback and thats it (assuming they havent added anything aftermarket to the jeep like tint, etc)

You take that cost, subtract any applicable rebates or incentives and add about $500 for dealer profit and that is generally a fair deal.

invoice.JPG

here is the bottom
 

JAGS

Hooked
There is not enough time and type space to explain everything about auto finance on a jeep forum thread, but, NVZeil's link isn't a bad start.

MTG is right on about financing "old" debt.

Have you also even checked about financing the new purchase? Sure, the price is the first step, but then don't get fucked on the financing.

My "advice" would be to spend some time outside a jeep forum doing some research about buying a new vehicle. From price to financing to negotiating special perks/ad ons from the dealer and warranty cos, etc.
 

NevadaZielmeister

Caught the Bug
There is not enough time and type space to explain everything about auto finance on a jeep forum thread, but, NVZeil's link isn't a bad start.

MTG is right on about financing "old" debt.

Have you also even checked about financing the new purchase? Sure, the price is the first step, but then don't get fucked on the financing.

My "advice" would be to spend some time outside a jeep forum doing some research about buying a new vehicle. From price to financing to negotiating special perks/ad ons from the dealer and warranty cos, etc.

This ^^^^. This vehicle is handled no differently than any other vehicle.
 
So the invoice is $39788 and you subtract $1231 and this makes the dealers cost $38557... Again this is assuming they havent added any aftermarket items that aren't accounted for.

thanks, I am trying to get a solid number for my gofundme campaign, don't want to aim too low!
 
If you need help buying a Jeep, you don't need to buy it. Just saying. Get out of here with this shit.

lol. just wanted to see what the reactions would be.....no crowdfunding for me!

In all serious though, thank you to the people that sent me PM's, it is greatly appreciated! I tihnk it is either best to get the trade in value upped, or pay off a bigger chunk of the equity. Also throwing the used situation in the mix also.

thanks all!
 
No because holdback would likely be between $600 - $900 on this model. I doubt holdback would be more. I would read this article about invoice pricing:

http://www.clark.com/eye-opening-truth-about-dealer-invoice-price

It will open your eyes as to what we are not all seeing. They simply replaced the term "MSRP" with "Invoice", sneaky little bastards. So with this knowledge, you are free to negotiate. Heck, tell em you will probably want to wait for a couple of months to pay down your current loan, watch them squirm. They HATE stuff like that.

Good luck and let us know what happens.

I apologize I didnt say this before, but thanks for the link, good information to know!
 
The best thing to know about auto finance and any finance is pay the debt off as fast as possible and stay as debt free as possible. Constantly adding debt is not a good idea. You should get right side up if at all possibles your trade.
 
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