What did Brown Santa show up with today..

sipafz

Caught the Bug
Oscar will be getting new comms once it warms up a bit.

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Midland Micro 15 Watt GMRS

FCC licensing is suppose to drop from $70 to $35 at some point soon. I’m going to wait it out.
 

Ddays

Hooked
Nice! Is that like Jeff’s?


2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler

Yep, same concept but with this one you plumb in air chucks to each wheel area permanently & hook up short hoses to the valves. You control airing up or down from the dial. I started pricing up what Jeff made & when I was done this was only a little more. Of course I was going to use a liquid filled gauge, hard plumbed lines, etc, etc. You know how this shit creeps into overkill :rolleyes2:

Edit: All of the parts are very well made. Nice kit.

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wjtstudios

Hooked
Yep, same concept but with this one you plumb in air chucks to each wheel area permanently & hook up short hoses to the valves. You control airing up or down from the dial. I started pricing up what Jeff made & when I was done this was only a little more. Of course I was going to use a liquid filled gauge, hard plumbed lines, etc, etc. You know how this shit creeps into overkill :rolleyes2:

Edit: All of the parts are very well made. Nice kit.

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Very cool

That way you don’t forget it when you head to the trail 🤣


2015 JKUR AEV JK350
1985 CJ8 Scrambler
 

Seahawkfan

Hooked
Yep, same concept but with this one you plumb in air chucks to each wheel area permanently & hook up short hoses to the valves. You control airing up or down from the dial. I started pricing up what Jeff made & when I was done this was only a little more. Of course I was going to use a liquid filled gauge, hard plumbed lines, etc, etc. You know how this shit creeps into overkill :rolleyes2:

Edit: All of the parts are very well made. Nice kit.

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Did you go front engine mount or rear engine mount. I have my Twin/ARB mounted over the brake res. so I would assume I would need the front of the engine mount?? Thanks
 

Ddays

Hooked
Did you go front engine mount or rear engine mount. I have my Twin/ARB mounted over the brake res. so I would assume I would need the front of the engine mount?? Thanks

I actually got a universal mount. My compressor is mounted under the front passenger seat and since I don't run a back seat so I'm gonna make a mount and put this on the side rail right behind the passenger side rear door.

You can always do something similar if you run the air line to the control head of the system. That way you won't have to open the hood to air up or down.
 

Seahawkfan

Hooked
I actually got a universal mount. My compressor is mounted under the front passenger seat and since I don't run a back seat so I'm gonna make a mount and put this on the side rail right behind the passenger side rear door.

You can always do something similar if you run the air line to the control head of the system. That way you won't have to open the hood to air up or down.

Looks like the front engine mount will clear my ARB. What do you think? Not sure it helps at all but I like the hood open when running the compressor for long periods of time. Gets hotter than hell in there.:sFun_hot:
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fiend

Caught the Bug
Picked up a Dominion Offroad high lift mount today. Gonna cut down my 60” jack to 48” so it will fit. I was never too jazzed about hauling around a High Lift, but after the recent Two Leaf trail experience, Jerry persuaded me of its merits. Thanks Jerry!


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jdofmemi

Active Member
Picked up a Dominion Offroad high lift mount today. Gonna cut down my 60” jack to 48” so it will fit. I was never too jazzed about hauling around a High Lift, but after the recent Two Leaf trail experience, Jerry persuaded me of its merits. Thanks Jerry!


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Any time!

When you cut it down, only cut the minimum to get it to fit. 48" is just not enough sometimes.

Also, get some hitch pins, and take the cotter pins out so you can remove the handle and the base quick if you need. The quick release handle is the best cheater pipe, and easy to get to even when the jack is stowed.

Another tip is to take the top piece off and put it in a tool bag or something. It is rare that you would ever need it, and that gives you another 4" or so you don't have to cut to make it fit.

You don't need one often, but they are very helpful for those few times when you do.
 

Seahawkfan

Hooked
Picked up a Dominion Offroad high lift mount today. Gonna cut down my 60” jack to 48” so it will fit. I was never too jazzed about hauling around a High Lift, but after the recent Two Leaf trail experience, Jerry persuaded me of its merits. Thanks Jerry!


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE

Funny I was just checking out this RadFlo jack. Only 13lbs. But pretty expensive.
 

fiend

Caught the Bug
Any time!

When you cut it down, only cut the minimum to get it to fit. 48" is just not enough sometimes.

Also, get some hitch pins, and take the cotter pins out so you can remove the handle and the base quick if you need. The quick release handle is the best cheater pipe, and easy to get to even when the jack is stowed.

Another tip is to take the top piece off and put it in a tool bag or something. It is rare that you would ever need it, and that gives you another 4" or so you don't have to cut to make it fit.

You don't need one often, but they are very helpful for those few times when you do.

Good points. I’ll probably get to it on Saturday. Also need to finish up my EVO no limits on demand. Plumbing is done; just need to wire up the solenoid.


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jdofmemi

Active Member
Funny I was just checking out this RadFlo jack. Only 13lbs. But pretty expensive.

$500 is cheaper than the ARB version, but I want a basic inexpensive High Lift.

I have needed the ability to jack up my rig and drive off the jack. Sometimes it gets ran over in the process, and a fancy expensive jack would not be a good option for that.

If you end up running over the high lift and bending it, you can flip it and run over the other side to straighten it. My original one had been bent so many times I lost count, but it never let me down. I even hammered it into the ground and as a winch anchor several times. Had to clean up the mushroomed ends with a grinder when I got home, but it was still fully functional.
 

J&k_Overland

Active Member
$500 is cheaper than the ARB version, but I want a basic inexpensive High Lift.

I have needed the ability to jack up my rig and drive off the jack. Sometimes it gets ran over in the process, and a fancy expensive jack would not be a good option for that.

If you end up running over the high lift and bending it, you can flip it and run over the other side to straighten it. My original one had been bent so many times I lost count, but it never let me down. I even hammered it into the ground and as a winch anchor several times. Had to clean up the mushroomed ends with a grinder when I got home, but it was still fully functional.

Shoved one in some boulders as a winch anchor. Things are handy and cheap. Definitely right in about the handle being a good cheater bar I got one laying in the shop just for that.


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Ddays

Hooked
Looks like the front engine mount will clear my ARB. What do you think? Not sure it helps at all but I like the hood open when running the compressor for long periods of time. Gets hotter than hell in there.:sFun_hot:
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Yep, that'll definitely fit there. Handy location too I guess. Good point on the heat under the hood too. Mine being under the seat I forget about the heat aspect.
 

Seahawkfan

Hooked
Yep, that'll definitely fit there. Handy location too I guess. Good point on the heat under the hood too. Mine being under the seat I forget about the heat aspect.

Yea look's like it will fit just fine. Funny I had it in the CART all day and I just now said fuck it and pulled the trigger. Thanks for the lead and the push.:thumb:
 

Ddays

Hooked
Jeep is already too damn heavy, so of course I'm adding more spare parts that I'll likely never need unless I don't have them. :idontknow:

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