Yoke/knuckle won't fit

So my dad ordered some new Chromoly shafts for his 08Rubi JKUR from NR. I've got all of them in but the passenger front and it won't fit through the hole in the knuckle. The yokes are too wide. They are 10 factory. Any thoughts? Grind them down a few mm's? I have to fineness it into the right spot on the internals too. The splines measure .05mm bigger and I have to spin it just right for it to seat. Pisses me off!!! Any feedback?
 

WJCO

Meme King
So my dad ordered some new Chromoly shafts for his 08Rubi JKUR from NR. I've got all of them in but the passenger front and it won't fit through the hole in the knuckle. The yokes are too wide. They are 10 factory. Any thoughts? Grind them down a few mm's? I have to fineness it into the right spot on the internals too. The splines measure .05mm bigger and I have to spin it just right for it to seat. Pisses me off!!! Any feedback?

So is the passenger axle larger in diameter than the drivers? Maybe wrong part got sent or boxed?
 

WJCO

Meme King
Good question. The driver side is in and all buttoned up. I don't really want to pull it apart.

I understand the first part of your post that the yoke is too large to fit through the knuckle hole. I guess grinding it could work, but you shouldn't have to do that. Nothing bent that you know of I assume?

But the 2nd part of your post that it won't fit in the internals? What do you mean there?
 
I understand the first part of your post that the yoke is too large to fit through the knuckle hole. I guess grinding it could work, but you shouldn't have to do that. Nothing bent that you know of I assume?

But the 2nd part of your post that it won't fit in the internals? What do you mean there?

The splines will only go into the carrier when I get it just right. I have to sit and spin the shaft almost all the way around. It's as if one spline has to line up just right. No, nothing's bent that I know of. The old one works just fine. As I spin the old shaft, it stays right in the center of the tube.
 

WJCO

Meme King
You could always pull the diff cover to compare the two. Count the splines, measure the diameter, etc. I know it's more work, fluid, etc but at least less work than pulling the driver's side axle out again. If you have a dial caliper, you could hopefully get it somewhere on the axle to compare them.
 
Ya. My first call in the morning will be to NR and then to 10 factory. That was going to be my next move. I'm with you, it shouldn't be that difficult!
 

upnover

Member
Drop the knuckle? Just the two bolts of the BJs and move it out of the way. If its just a little but contact, grind it down a bit.
 

WJCO

Meme King
The splines will only go into the carrier when I get it just right. I have to sit and spin the shaft almost all the way around. It's as if one spline has to line up just right. No, nothing's bent that I know of. The old one works just fine. As I spin the old shaft, it stays right in the center of the tube.

There you go. Do you have a dial caliper? Could you compare the old axle to the new one? Just to make sure diameter, spline count, and length are the same. I know this won't do anything for the yoke/knuckle problem, but at least you'll know if the part is right. If indeed it does go into the carrier at some point, my guess is one of the splines on the new axle has a burr or sharp edge, just a guess. It also could be that the splines on the old axle were just worn enough to fit into the carrier easier too.
 
There you go. Do you have a dial caliper? Could you compare the old axle to the new one? Just to make sure diameter, spline count, and length are the same. I know this won't do anything for the yoke/knuckle problem, but at least you'll know if the part is right. If indeed it does go into the carrier at some point, my guess is one of the splines on the new axle has a burr or sharp edge, just a guess. It also could be that the splines on the old axle were just worn enough to fit into the carrier easier too.

Yes. I've sized it. It is a bit bigger. I've checked the splines for smooth edges too. I can live with the tight fit internally in the carrier. It's going through the knuckle that is the problem.
 
Drop the knuckle? Just the two bolts of the BJs and move it out of the way. If its just a little but contact, grind it down a bit.

Yep. I had just changed to BJ's before sliding the new shafts in. Pulled the knuckle back off and it( the shaft) won't fit through the opening. I don't have a problem grinding it down I just don't want to void warranted or get it off center. I know it's not like a drive line, but still, a pain in the ass!
 

WJCO

Meme King
Yes. I've sized it. It is a bit bigger. I've checked the splines for smooth edges too. I can live with the tight fit internally in the carrier. It's going through the knuckle that is the problem.

.05 mm is only .001" . That isn't that much. My gut feeling is that is probably ok.

How different is the yoke/knuckle clearance though?
 

WJCO

Meme King
Another question (maybe stupid). Are the ujoint clips all the way in? And are there any signs that the RF outer part of the shaft was installed 180 degrees backwards? Any markings that would indicate that? I would assume it is a symmetrical part that would install either way, but you never know. Anything you could compare to the LF just to make sure?
 
Another question (maybe stupid). Are the ujoint clips all the way in? And are there any signs that the RF outer part of the shaft was installed 180 degrees backwards? Any markings that would indicate that? I would assume it is a symmetrical part that would install either way, but you never know. Anything you could compare to the LF just to make sure?

Not silly questions at all. Those were the first things I checked too. Caps on the ujoint ends are countersunk. No clearance issues in the middle it's just the edges of the yokes. No cast lines to separate them to make them off set either. Just too wide. It maybe easier to grind down the knuckle hole.... Then I won't have a balance issue.
 

WJCO

Meme King
I'm going to have to take about 2-3mm off each side of the yolks

That's quite a bit. That really doesn't make any sense. Any casting marks on the yokes that you could compare to the left side? Just seems really strange that the other axle was fine and this one isn't.
 
That's quite a bit. That really doesn't make any sense. Any casting marks on the yokes that you could compare to the left side? Just seems really strange that the other axle was fine and this one isn't.

That's what makes me think it's the wrong yokes or they shouldn't have passed QQ. Here is the best part. I'm not trying to bash NR. The first set he ordered were the new ones from rugged ridge. The U joints had to be seated in the yokes and those ears were too narrow. NR took those back and sold him these. Now I'm having troubles with this one. I'm sure Tim will help out, but what a pain to n the BUTT!!!! Not impressed at all with the 10 factory ones
 

WJCO

Meme King
That's what makes me think it's the wrong yokes or they shouldn't have passed QQ. Here is the best part. I'm not trying to bash NR. The first set he ordered were the new ones from rugged ridge. The U joints had to be seated in the yokes and those ears were too narrow. NR took those back and sold him these. Now I'm having troubles with this one. I'm sure Tim will help out, but what a pain to n the BUTT!!!! Not impressed at all with the 10 factory ones

No kidding. It's one thing to get wrong parts, but really sucks when you're right in the middle of a job trying to wrap it up. Hope if it is the wrong part they expedite you a new one.
 
No kidding. It's one thing to get wrong parts, but really sucks when you're right in the middle of a job trying to wrap it up. Hope if it is the wrong part they expedite you a new one.

Thanks for the input.... Always helps to bounce ideas off someone and hear suggestions.
 
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