LS swap into a 97 TJ

Strodinator

Caught the Bug
No. It should be able to run. You may have to play with the gas to get/keep it going but it should run without them. Still only going on starting fluid?


Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
I've got the fuel pump running, however not running properly where it primes before I start. It is only getting 45 PSI at the rail because that's what the stock pump is regulated at. That should still be sufficient to start it and keep it idling. At this point I really think it's the Vats system shutting everything down within a second of it starting.

Sent from my PH-1 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
I've got the fuel pump running, however not running properly where it primes before I start. It is only getting 45 PSI at the rail because that's what the stock pump is regulated at. That should still be sufficient to start it and keep it idling. At this point I really think it's the Vats system shutting everything down within a second of it starting.

Sent from my PH-1 using WAYALIFE mobile app

Does it start by itself and then shut off? What psi is it supposed to be? If it’s not right pressure it’s not gonna get a proper spray regardless of just idle or flooring it.
 

Strodinator

Caught the Bug
Does it start by itself and then shut off? What psi is it supposed to be? If it’s not right pressure it’s not gonna get a proper spray regardless of just idle or flooring it.
It starts by itself and then shuts off. I haven't used starting fluid since the first couple starts that first night. since then it's been only fuel pump, I've seen all over the Internet of people using the stock pump and only having power cut at 5000 plus RPMs. If I'm ever actually running higher than 5000 RPMs I'll know I have a problem considering the engine red lines at 52 hundred.

Sent from my PH-1 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

Strodinator

Caught the Bug
Does it start by itself and then shut off? What psi is it supposed to be? If it’s not right pressure it’s not gonna get a proper spray regardless of just idle or flooring it.
My symptoms though do exactly match with the Vats system being tripped. I could bypass it without a tune by finding someone who has a Chevy truck motor 2000 or newer and swapping computers and running through the security cycle. The hard part is finding that person though.

Sent from my PH-1 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

Strodinator

Caught the Bug
I have a friend with an 04 Suburban with the 5. 3, when he gets home I'm going to head over there and the trick is to swap computers and then turn the key on his Suburban and let it run through its 10-second security cool down three separate times and on the 4th time it should turn on. Once it's running you unplug the Vats module underneath the bottom of the driver side Dash and let it run for 10 more minutes and this is supposed to teach my computer that Vats is no longer enabled.

Sent from my PH-1 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

Strodinator

Caught the Bug
So didn't get a chance to test out the Vats disable theory, but I did get some more work done on everything under the hood. I got the evap purge solenoid that I initially cut out plug back into the computer and I got the lines run from the purge solenoid to the stock evap canister and got the stock evap canister Line run to the hard line along the frame that runs back to the tank. IMG_20180825_222059%7E2.jpg IMG_20180825_222105%7E2.jpg This should be the only emissions piece that I am retaining, due to its ability to actually improve mileage. I also got the passenger side fender completely put back on, which was the only way to mount the charcoal canister anyway, and it's finally starting to look like a Jeep again. IMG_20180825_222024%7E2.jpg Still only getting about 45 PSI at the rail but with the engine off and with the fuel pump not having been primed well over 10 minutes the pressure at the rail still shows 43 PSI showing me that I don't have any leak down after the engine not running. IMG_20180825_222047%7E2.jpg I got the stock fuse box all sealed up, and I shouldn't have to even open it to finish the swap now that I have the fuel pump relay finally working with the Chevy computer to the stock pump. IMG_20180825_205944%7E2.jpg The only thing left under the hood is to route wiring cleaner. Mount the coolant reservoir, put battery straps on, Mount the computer, wire up the electric fan, and group and place my grounds. IMG_20180825_205947%7E2.jpg IMG_20180825_222039%7E2.jpg IMG_20180825_222032%7E2.jpg Throwing a code scanner on the OBD2 port it's only showing the evap purge solenoid code which should be resolved as soon as the engine is idling and the solenoid resume normal work. Looking at all this wiring I worried that I won't be able to clean it up as much as I want it to, but it will be much improved and I can always reroute and clean up later. The Trinity T2 DiabloSport hand-held tuner will be coming tomorrow and it has full integrated gauges for everything that can be out put it by the computer. This means I should be able to hold off on gauges and invest in driveshaft so the Jeep can get moving under its own power again. the only gauge that I really care about is the tachometer and to do that I need to splice the VSS lead off of the computer into the VSS plug on the transfer case. there's some major damage to the driver side fender where it meets the body, and I had to use a bfh to get it back in the mounting place. Not to worry about this since at the end of all this metalcloak fenders are going on but still bummed to see it now. IMG_20180825_222129%7E2.jpg I won't be putting the dash on until everything in the engine bay is finalized so it's just sitting looking like this for now. IMG_20180825_222120%7E2.jpg I also take a toothbrush to my computer today since it's the one thing out of this entire swap that I haven't scrubbed from that Chevy roll over. It was filthy and took so long to even get acceptable. IMG_20180825_151027%7E2.jpg IMG_20180825_151035%7E2.jpg it's crazy to see how far I've come though, when I started this I really didn't imagine it taking around a year to complete but here we are and I'm finally coming to a close. Here's a before picture of the engine stripped down filthy on the edge and Stan compared to a picture of the engine in the Jeep almost ready to go. tapatalk_1535228506690.jpeg IMG_20180708_215404.jpg

Sent from my PH-1 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

Strodinator

Caught the Bug
I also completely bypassed the ASD or automatic shutdown relay which is great because I never had to deal with the problem that I've seen it cause to TJ's and hope to never have that problem with a swap that may cause me enough electrical problems down the road. IMG_20180825_224336%7E2.jpg This also gives me a spare relay for my fuel pump.

Sent from my PH-1 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

Strodinator

Caught the Bug
Quick fix for vats didn't work, me and my buddy just spent the better part of two hours and my computer didn't want to go through the relearn procedure. Going through some Manuel's it looks like this is the method the Chevrolet dealer will use to relearn new keys to the computer, they call it the GM pass cell cycle. I'll be trying in on Tuesday when the same buddy comes over but by that point I will probably have gotten a call from either the dealer or Portland speed Industries to see if they can do it for me.

Sent from my PH-1 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

WJCO

Meme King
Quick fix for vats didn't work, me and my buddy just spent the better part of two hours and my computer didn't want to go through the relearn procedure. Going through some Manuel's it looks like this is the method the Chevrolet dealer will use to relearn new keys to the computer, they call it the GM pass cell cycle. I'll be trying in on Tuesday when the same buddy comes over but by that point I will probably have gotten a call from either the dealer or Portland speed Industries to see if they can do it for me.

Sent from my PH-1 using WAYALIFE mobile app

What a PITA. Hope it turns out to be something simple.
 

Strodinator

Caught the Bug
What a PITA. Hope it turns out to be something simple.
It's just this damn vats issue. Either I get vats programmed out or I have to trick it with the above mentioned trick. I know It'll work just based on how much I see this method in tech manuals and security descriptions it's just frustrating that it didn't work today.

Sent from my PH-1 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

WJCO

Meme King
It's just this damn vats issue. Either I get vats programmed out or I have to trick it with the above mentioned trick. I know It'll work just based on how much I see this method in tech manuals and security descriptions it's just frustrating that it didn't work today.

Sent from my PH-1 using WAYALIFE mobile app

These modern security systems are indeed great for preventing theft yet horrible for your average mechanic. Reminds me of this:

download.png
 

Strodinator

Caught the Bug
The same guy who did all the harness diagrams does tuning with 2-3 turnaround and he's in Montana so I should see it back pretty quick. 100 bucks and it includes return shipping.

Sent from my PH-1 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

Strodinator

Caught the Bug
So I got an e-mail today saying that the guy who does the programming just shipped me a package this morning at 10 a. M. That sounds to me like he got the computer in one day did all the programming last night and this morning and it's already on its way back to me. If that's the case I could see it tomorrow or Friday morning and well I'll be out of town all of Friday night and Saturday Saturday night I could hook it up and theoretically get that engine running full time. I really hope this is the case because I was honestly expecting to not see the computer until next Wednesday.

Sent from my PH-1 using WAYALIFE mobile app
 
Top Bottom