Getting ready to drop some money

Speedy_RCW

Hooked
Your info is wrong. You will need a programmer if you change gears on an auto period. Do better research.

Also that was a 5.38 gear he broke and that was with 40's. Again, do better research.

^^^yep. Jeep will be throwing codes for incorrect gear and go into limp mode. Need a programmer to correct it.
 

Drdiesel1

New member
Your info is wrong. You will need a programmer if you change gears on an auto period. Do better research.

Also that was a 5.38 gear he broke and that was with 40's. Again, do better research.

I have a known Jeep owner that is running 4:88's with 37's and his speedo is accurate. Why would you
need to buy the SC programmer if the speedo is correct. The shift points won't change. You're trading
gear ratio for tire size and that configuration matches the stock ratio for the speedo.
 

Ddays

Hooked
I've run both 4:88's and 5:13's on my '14 and would highly recommend 5:13's. Hardly a difference mileage wise but gives you better acceleration.

Do yourself a favor & get LED headlights now. You wont believe the difference.

Listen to everyone on the programmer issue. Added bonus is you can adjust tire pressure warning light, set performance parameters, etc, etc
 

TennJK

New member
I have a known Jeep owner that is running 4:88's with 37's and his speedo is accurate. Why would you
need to buy the SC programmer if the speedo is correct. The shift points won't change. You're trading
gear ratio for tire size and that configuration matches the stock ratio for the speedo.

There's no way that the gear ratio would correct the speedometer. And if you don't program your computer with new gears then it'll throw it into limp mode. Trust me, that makes driving on the interstate realllllllly dangerous
 

caminton

New member
Yes I am planning on headlights and some LED lighting but my tires are almost completely bald right now so I thought I'd get the tires and suspension figured out and worry about bumpers and lighting in the near future!

I second the headlights nod. Did all kinds of things to mine before I "but the bullet" (so I thought) and ordered headlights. They're easily the best mod I've done so far. You won't believe the difference it makes. It's like going from driving at night with sunglasses on, and then taking them off. HUGE difference.
 

highoctane

Caught the Bug
I have a known Jeep owner that is running 4:88's with 37's and his speedo is accurate. Why would you need to buy the SC programmer if the speedo is correct. The shift points won't change. You're trading gear ratio for tire size and that configuration matches the stock ratio for the speedo.


On the '12 and up you have to reprogram for gear ratio regardless of what transmission you have, or it will go into limp mode. It likely won't even make it out of the garage before it happens. On the '07-'11 JK you don't have to reprogram, but your shift points will be off if you have an auto trans and drivability will be crap. Speedometer is unaffected by gear ratio in any JK because it gets its speedometer reading from the wheel speed sensors, not the speed of the transmission output shaft like older vehicles.
 

OverlanderJK

Resident Smartass
On the '12 and up you have to reprogram for gear ratio regardless of what transmission you have, or it will go into limp mode. It likely won't even make it out of the garage before it happens. On the '07-'11 JK you don't have to reprogram, but your shift points will be off if you have an auto trans and drivability will be crap. Speedometer is unaffected by gear ratio in any JK because it gets its speedometer reading from the wheel speed sensors, not the speed of the transmission output shaft like older vehicles.

Well, not all true. On a manual it doesn't need to be set b
 

highoctane

Caught the Bug
Well, not all true. On a manual it doesn't need to be set b
For some reason I was thinking it also applied to the manual, but thinking more about, yeah your right. I know the W5A580 TCM monitors input shaft, output shaft, and wheel speeds. Manual trans has no shaft speed sensors and won't matter since you row your own gears.
 

DKjeep

New member
How long is it going to take to pay off that CC?

On a different note, I have various versions of pretty much everything on that list, it makes me cry to think of what I have spent. I think I am near the vehicles original cost in aftermarket shit.
 
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How long is it going to take to pay off that CC?

On a different note, I have various versions of pretty much everything on that list, it makes me cry to think of what I have spent. I think I am near the vehicles original cost in aftermarket shit.

Haha I have been saving up for a while so I can just do everything at once!
 
Okay I have a couple more questions for you guys, 1st, how hard is it to regear? will I need any special tools and can I just do it in my garage? Also what brand of drive shaft is good and do I need to get a heavy duty one or will a regular 1350 do just fine?
 

mastrcruse

New member
Okay I have a couple more questions for you guys, 1st, how hard is it to regear? will I need any special tools and can I just do it in my garage? Also what brand of drive shaft is good and do I need to get a heavy duty one or will a regular 1350 do just fine?

Let a professional do a regear for you. Not trying to be an asshole but if you have to ask if their are any special tools required, you haven't done your research and haven't done it before. This one is dorm thing you shouldn't test your skill out.
 

swampdog

New member
Okay I have a couple more questions for you guys, 1st, how hard is it to regear? will I need any special tools and can I just do it in my garage? Also what brand of drive shaft is good and do I need to get a heavy duty one or will a regular 1350 do just fine?

If you are going to 37s, get the 1350 driveshaft. Based on these questions, please don't attempt to regear yourself. Don't take that the wrong way, but it is a tricky process that requires specialty tools and a very tight degree of accuracy. No tolerance for mistakes.
 
Let a professional do a regear for you. Not trying to be an asshole but if you have to ask if their are any special tools required, you haven't done your research and haven't done it before. This one is dorm thing you shouldn't test your skill out.

If you are going to 37s, get the 1350 driveshaft. Based on these questions, please don't attempt to regear yourself. Don't take that the wrong way, but it is a tricky process that requires specialty tools and a very tight degree of accuracy. No tolerance for mistakes.

That is what I figured, I am in the process of getting a quote for a shop to put on the lift and they said they don't regear. Anyone know of a place in Iowa that I should look at to regear or even possibly the lift also?
 

mastrcruse

New member
That is what I figured, I am in the process of getting a quote for a shop to put on the lift and they said they don't regear. Anyone know of a place in Iowa that I should look at to regear or even possibly the lift also?

You're gonna get HUGE ranges, just be prepared. I've found that finding shops not connected to dealerships or "big names" are the best way to go. We have a few shops around here that are $1250-1400 installed for F/R gears.

We have a 4wd here and they want something like 2500-3k and there is a great shop here that is connected to a dealership. Their cost I is usually really good but their gear work is insane...$3k.
 
You're gonna get HUGE ranges, just be prepared. I've found that finding shops not connected to dealerships or "big names" are the best way to go. We have a few shops around here that are $1250-1400 installed for F/R gears.

We have a 4wd here and they want something like 2500-3k and there is a great shop here that is connected to a dealership. Their cost I is usually really good but their gear work is insane...$3k.

Ahh geez I didn't realize it would be that much.. I'll have to shop around and get a few different quotes.
 

Clutch

Caught the Bug
Something tells me you're in way over your head, asking about rear gussets and if you can do the re-gear yourself. My hunch is that you've been reading a lot of build threads and just put down a bunch of cool parts that you've read about but really have no idea why most of it is needed.

I think you should slow down and I bet you'd save a lot of money in the long haul. I don't want this to turn out like some Bruiser conversion.

Good luck to you!
 
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That's a good list if you plan on doing any serious wheeling. Nothing wrong with starting your build out the right way (which you've done here), learn the process along the way, and then wheel that sucker. Don't let anyone tell you you shouldn't do something to your rig unless it's a bad part, manufacturer, or a bad decision in general. Good luck man!
 
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