MAINTENANCE : Jeep JK Wrangler Differential Fluid Change Write-Up

Great writeup. Tackling this over the weekend! Got my Mobil 1 synth (I have the LS), and my bottle pump!
 
Changed mine a few weeks back ordered 3 bottle pumps from Amazon and got the oil from the parts dept at the dealership. The local market does not have much in the line of quality oils.
 
Just did the first oil change last weekend for the 500 miles after regearing. I bought a bottle pump that didn't fit the royal purple bottle. I have a JKU sport. So I just poured half of three bottles into the rear and took them up to the front so I could tip them in without spilling. Then topped off the rear with the last bottle.

Thanks for the write up.
 
amsicora said:
Hi, this oil is fine for the front and rear differential of my JK Rubicon?


Bardahl T&D SYNTHETIC OIL, SAE 75W90, Performance Level API GL-5 GL-4 / MT-1

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Olio-Bardah...863841?hash=item23622b5ae1:g:gTcAAOSwXshWsIhQ


I had ordered a 80W90, GL-5 only, but there was a mistake in the shipment... if I put this oil is okay?
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I'd hate to comment & be wrong. There are some name brands we stick to in the US like Royal Purple or Mobil One. I've never heard of that brand so no idea if it's high quality.


Sent from my duck blind.
 
ScoobyCarolanNC said:
I'd hate to comment & be wrong. There are some name brands we stick to in the US like Royal Purple or Mobil One. I've never heard of that brand so no idea if it's high quality.


Sent from my duck blind.
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The brand is very good. It 's a premium brand. My main doubt is gradation. The manual says 80W90 GL-5 API. I just put a synthetic 75W90 that respects both GL-5 GL-4, just like the Royal Purple. Could give me problems with this gradation? I live in Italy, in winter rarely drops below 0 degrees, while in summer it is very hot.
 
Way outside of my area of expertise my man.... I feel like my manual said 75w90 synthetic, but I don't have access right now.


Sent from my duck blind.
 
Well just done my differential fluid change. Using Lucas 80w90. When I pulled the drain plugs on both front and rear there were just fine hair like pieces on the magnet. So I am happy with that and my brother and sister will be happy I didn't make a huge mess in the garage. Lol

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i have done this before and had no problems with the Rubicon. but now i am in a Sport with open differentials and unsure if there is limited slip in the gears. i have always used this in the past:

ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1418265352.468374.jpg

can this be used in the 30/44 combo as well or should I be using a different kind of fluid?
 
M_Savage said:
i have done this before and had no problems with the Rubicon. but now i am in a Sport with open differentials and unsure if there is limited slip in the gears. i have always used this in the past:


can this be used in the 30/44 combo as well or should I be using a different kind of fluid?
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Adding friction modifier to an open diff won't hurt anything, so go for it. If you already have the fluid, use it. The exception would be that it could harm the seals in an ARB locker.
 
BuckeyeJeep said:
Well, I gotta say....I was quoted for $500+ to change the fluids at a dealership service.....I was NOT happy with the possible bill.

So, then I did some research...a lot of people are saying they heard the same price tag too and some mentioned they did it themselves. I decided to do it after finding this write up. It was so easy!! Thank you for this write up!

Total savings....around $450 -- I see myself ordering more mods soon! :)
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Holy crap I couldn't even imagine myself taking the jeep to a shop for that really hope people find threads like these and aren't suckered into that awful price tag. Swapping my oil out tomorrow just put the first 500 on these yukon 4.88's using mobile 1 too easy of work not to do yourself.

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Great write up!

Just picked up my 2012 from the stealership after getting the left cylinder head replaced and they tell me that the dif and transfer case fluids need to be changed. Seems like they're trying to get some money out of me, but it's got almost 50k miles on the clock, so it's probably about time anyway. Glad I looked on here and saw how easy it was instead of giving them the $399 they wanted to do it... :grayno:
 
DoYouEvenJeep said:
Great write up!

Just picked up my 2012 from the stealership after getting the left cylinder head replaced and they tell me that the dif and transfer case fluids need to be changed. Seems like they're trying to get some money out of me, but it's got almost 50k miles on the clock, so it's probably about time anyway. Glad I looked on here and saw how easy it was instead of giving them the $399 they wanted to do it... :grayno:
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$400?? :shock:

Yeah, please do yourself a favor and use my write-ups to help save yourself a TON of money.
 
Eddie

With your experience, does using synthetic make a difference even if your vehicle doesn't need it? I can't imagine it'll hurt the diff? Other than a higher cost, is there really a benefit?


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Rubicon310 said:
Eddie

With your experience, does using synthetic make a difference even if your vehicle doesn't need it? I can't imagine it'll hurt the diff? Other than a higher cost, is there really a benefit?


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If you have a limited slip differential, using synth is a good idea as it will have the friction modifier in it that you'll need to make it work properly. If you have an ARB, synth will actually damage the o-ring inside and cause an internal air leak. It is best to use Dino for that. All other applications, synth isn't necessary and I don't think you'd see a difference.


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wayoflife said:
If you have a limited slip differential, using synth is a good idea as it will have the friction modifier in it that you'll need to make it work properly. If you have an ARB, synth will actually damage the o-ring inside and cause an internal air leak. It is best to use Dino for that. All other applications, synth isn't necessary and I don't think you'd see a difference.


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Great! Just wanted to double check. Great write up by the way.


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