DIY Spod- Waytekwire
- Thread starter pvanweelden
- Start date
noroad
New member
has anyone wired up there lockers and ARB air compressor to DIY Spod, im about to order my arb air compresssor and i already have cool switches and dont want the crappy arb ones!!! reason i ask is beacuse the arb wire harness has a ton of wires and my switches only look like this
pvanweelden
New member
Yes, you can do it.
Give me some model #'s and I will try to help ya. The locker wiring itself should be simply 12 volts going in, and a ground. The output from one of your relays would go to the 12 volts wire on the locker.
Give me some model #'s and I will try to help ya. The locker wiring itself should be simply 12 volts going in, and a ground. The output from one of your relays would go to the 12 volts wire on the locker.
cozdude
Guy with a Red 2-Door
you can kinda see how my locker switch has more connectors..... i will try and get a better pics for you tonight and text you but its 5 or 6 different wires need to be hooked up
Attachments
pvanweelden
New member
Here's a couple of diagrams (both should be the same, just laid out differently)- the arb switch will have illumination, you don't have to necessarily use it, if you don't have a illumination wire going to your other switches. There would still be a light on the top of your switch when turned on.
As Steve said ^ you could use the arb switch but put your cover on it.
As Steve said ^ you could use the arb switch but put your cover on it.
noroad
New member
I dont wana run there switches as they dont allow you to run the lockers in a selectable use! Aka like rubicon lockers! Also i dont think they fit in my v series switch holder. I just want to use the basic switch i bought guess ill have to figure it out when it comes, thanks guys
cozdude
Guy with a Red 2-Door
huh? how wouldnt they? :hmm: to turn your locker on you turn on your air compressor then hit the switch for what locker you want engaged. so compressor and rear, or compressor and front, or compressor and both. ARB's are selectable.:yup:
noroad
New member
You have to have the back on to have the front on! With there switches!
pvanweelden
New member
^ their switch bodies would still allow you to engage the lockers anytime the compressor is on, and the key is on. Unlike rubi lockers.
but as long as the Carling switch body styles are the same, you can switch the covers and use the ones you already have.
but as long as the Carling switch body styles are the same, you can switch the covers and use the ones you already have.
noroad
New member
Lol ya i know i can switch the covers but i like the green lights lol so is it just not going to work if i only hook up the power and negitve and leve the rest out, also i dont want it to run to the ignition can i just tape those to wires up and leave them aside?? Red/yellow and blue/white??
pvanweelden
New member
The red/yellow supplies the power to the ARB switches, without it hooked up, the switches won't work. it could be the same Power In that you ran to your other switches (from fuse 6)
The Blue/white supplies the power to illuminate the arb switches. Same as what you ran to your other switches for Illumination.
The Blue/white supplies the power to illuminate the arb switches. Same as what you ran to your other switches for Illumination.
Schweaty
New member
Where did you grind the plastic off? I've tried double sided tape and not even that worked to keep the panel in place. Problem is the original piece used 4 clips whereas the Daystar only uses 2. They really need to include some metal clips that work in the kit, even if it means charging a little bit more. Every time it pops out I get more and more frustrated.
Greg__Berger
Member
You could probably steal some of the metal clips off of the black plastic cover on the inside of the tailgate. It has quite a few and won't miss one or two. Pry that off from the bottom first. The top has tabs that will break if you pull top and bottom at the same time. I only know that because I used the Rugged Ridge A-Pillar pod and the instructions include stealing one of the metal clips from there. Pissed me off that they didn't just include it with the kit, but it seemed to work out just fine.
pvanweelden
New member
^ great tip Greg! Thanks!
darkknight1999
Member
I bought the Daystar panel for my project and I just hate it... plus I realized I have more than 4 switches...
So I'm making a custom panel. I purchased the 6 panel plate from Otrattw http://www.otrattw.com/proddetail.php?prod=VM6-01 and I'm going to mold it into the upper plastic molding. A little 1/4" MDF, fiberglass, Rage, and texture/paint and we'll have a nice custom switch pod.
I wrapped it last night but forgot to take any pictures of if before I went to bed... so I'll take some more tonight when I apply the resin to it.
So I'm making a custom panel. I purchased the 6 panel plate from Otrattw http://www.otrattw.com/proddetail.php?prod=VM6-01 and I'm going to mold it into the upper plastic molding. A little 1/4" MDF, fiberglass, Rage, and texture/paint and we'll have a nice custom switch pod.
I wrapped it last night but forgot to take any pictures of if before I went to bed... so I'll take some more tonight when I apply the resin to it.
pvanweelden
New member
Nice work darkknight! please post up more pics when you get a chance! :thumb:
darkknight1999
Member
Thanks man!
The fiberglass is currently drying
Long way to go... I sort of rushed it tonight... I'll pay for that later in the bondo/sanding phase... :beer:
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Schweaty
New member
Just to confirm that these metal clips work perfectly with the Daystar 5 switch panel. Have to trim the plastic a bit where the clips slide on, but I just got mine installed in minutes and it won't be falling out any time soon.
pvanweelden
New member
Good to hear that! Nice work Pete!
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