DIY Spod- Waytekwire

noroad

New member
That looks amazing, I think I know where I want to mount my switches now. Looks almost like it comes from the factory that way. How big of a hole did you have to cut and what did you use? Also where did you get the switch housing from?

Thanks man the while was just big enough used a cut out only a little room on each side left. I used a razor blade knife and went real slow!
 

pvanweelden

New member
Awesome job Noroad! :thumb:

I just ordered a wireless controller for mine, so i can turn on/off up to 4 of the accessories with a remote.
This could take the place of having to actually mount switches, to give others an idea of what can be done with the relay panel, but i would recommend having actual hardwired switches versus only wireless.
The wireless controllers look to be cheaply made, which is good and bad. I got a 4 channel controller for $13. i figured it would be fun until it broke :D
 

noroad

New member
Awesome job Noroad! :thumb:

I just ordered a wireless controller for mine, so i can turn on/off up to 4 of the accessories with a remote.
This could take the place of having to actually mount switches, to give others an idea of what can be done with the relay panel, but i would recommend having actual hardwired switches versus only wireless.
The wireless controllers look to be cheaply made, which is good and bad. I got a 4 channel controller for $13. i figured it would be fun until it broke :D

Thanks man couldnt have done it with out your help of this post and a couple other members help came out great but deff thinking of adding a kill switch just need to figure out how on that lol!
 

pvanweelden

New member
^ thanks!

Kill Switch- i mentioned this at the start of the thread, and later on in another post- but the easiest way to do it is- interrupt the 12 volt wire from Fuse 6 going to the switches. You could bypass hooking it up to Fuse 6, and find a 12 volt ignition source instead (from the left side cigarette lighter). Then the switches would only be live when the key is on.

Or you can put a separate small toggle switch somewhere hidden (inside the glove box,etc) that interrupts the wire going to the switches (from fuse 6) so that the switches only work if that separate toggle switch is turned on.

I suggest doing a kill switch, especially when doorless, since fancy looking switches are a magnet to anyone walking by your jeep, it's like begging them to turn them on.
 

JK_Dave

Caught the Bug
I would recommend as Swank has on his- a 50 amp circuit breaker (i had the fuse holder already) but a circuit breaker is a better way to go, since it will reset when the overload is corrected. a fuse has to be replaced.

added 50 amp circuit breaker to parts list from waytekwire

Pvan, is there a reason you recommend the 50A circuit breaker? Any issues going larger?
 

pvanweelden

New member
Add up what you will have for all your accessories. 50 is common.
What size were you wanting to go with Dave?

Sent from my SM-N900V using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

JK_Dave

Caught the Bug
Add up what you will have for all your accessories. 50 is common.
What size were you wanting to go with Dave?

Sent from my SM-N900V using WAYALIFE mobile app

I was thinking about running a rocker switch for my winch control and didn't know if I needed the circuit breaker to handle a higher load for the solenoid control. I noticed you have the same though so how'd you work around that?
 

pvanweelden

New member
A winch controller would be a separate item than one of the switches in the diy spod.

PM me with the details on your winch, and I will see what could be done about a indash switch controller for it.

I was lucky and was able to find a connector for my XRC winch (speakon speaker cable connector) and then it just needs a double throw momentary switch. The current draw (in my case) is not through the switch cables, as they are only the input to activating the motor. The power cables to the winch itself carry the heavy current.
 

pastorwug

New member
^ thanks!

Kill Switch- i mentioned this at the start of the thread, and later on in another post- but the easiest way to do it is- interrupt the 12 volt wire from Fuse 6 going to the switches. You could bypass hooking it up to Fuse 6, and find a 12 volt ignition source instead (from the left side cigarette lighter). Then the switches would only be live when the key is on.

Or you can put a separate small toggle switch somewhere hidden (inside the glove box,etc) that interrupts the wire going to the switches (from fuse 6) so that the switches only work if that separate toggle switch is turned on.

I suggest doing a kill switch, especially when doorless, since fancy looking switches are a magnet to anyone walking by your jeep, it's like begging them to turn them on.

Hadn't thought of this - good idea!
 

pvanweelden

New member
^ thanks Paul!
And thanks to Paul, here is the dual led switches, lights on
1394927896330.jpg
And switches on
1394927922032.jpg
And the back (upside down)
1394927952585.jpg

Sent from my SM-N900V using WAYALIFE mobile app
 

JAGS

Hooked
Otrattw has a 6 panel mount like that for $9.00- i believe this is which one he used

or

waytekwire has individual pieces that snap together to make how ever many switch locations you want.

The End pieces are- 44387 $0.95 each
The middle pieces are - 44388 $0.99 each

i believe you have to order a minimum of 5 each

Great job Noroad! :thumb:

Thanks for the answer. 👍


- Jason
 

Flat Top

Member
Great thread with tons of info! Here is my install location in my 2013 JK Rubi.

Bussman_Mount.jpg

Anyone running a lower Daystar Panel in a 2012+? I cannot get the clips to stay secure. I have tucked the wires in as much as possible but the panel will not stay on.

Daystar-Panel_Back.jpg

Daystar-Panel_installed.jpg
 
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