Swapping AEV 2'5 DS Coils for EVO Plush Rides

[wayoflife]

I think he meant "up travel". I personally think it's worth the trade off. But some people don't like the idea of running a 3" bump stop.

Okay, I got that but, I guess I was wanting to know exactly how a draglink flip will cause you to loose it.

Not to hijack this thread but I have a question on this subject if anyone can answer, on a 2dr can I get away without the rear upper control arms for a run? Will it hurt anything? I'm pondering installing the enforcer lift before our rubicon run :thinking: also will my stock driveshafts survive the one run? :broke:

If you are running a factory rear drive shaft, you will be fine. If you are running an aftermarket u-joint style shaft, you will not be able to do it without causing all kinds of driveline vibes.

 

[Panda]

If you are running a factory rear drive shaft, you will be fine. If you are running an aftermarket u-joint style shaft, you will not be able to do it without causing all kinds of driveline vibes.

Thank you Eddie! That's good news, I can't wait to get on those plush rides!

 

[bkac]

Thank you Eddie! That's good news, I can't wait to get on those plush rides!

They'll be ready for you here in a few hours!

Sent from my VS980 4G using WAYALIFE mobile app

 

[David1tontj]

Not to hijack this thread but I have a question on this subject if anyone can answer, on a 2dr can I get away without the rear upper control arms for a run? Will it hurt anything? I'm pondering installing the enforcer lift before our rubicon run :thinking: also will my stock driveshafts survive the one run? :broke:

If you are running a factory rear drive shaft, you will be fine. If you are running an aftermarket u-joint style shaft, you will not be able to do it without causing all kinds of driveline vibes.

I think Eddie might actually be wrong on this one!

You really should have upper control arms or your axle will just twist right off! You can't have a 2-link setup!

Hahaha




My ride- 2001 power wheel, 11" plastic tires, upgraded battery, boat sides, custom bumpers, tow hooks, new paint.

 

[Panda]

I think Eddie might actually be wrong on this one!

You really should have upper control arms or your axle will just twist right off! You can't have a 2-link setup!

Hahaha




My ride- 2001 power wheel, 11" plastic tires, upgraded battery, boat sides, custom bumpers, tow hooks, new paint.

:cheesy: I guess I could've worded that better :doh:

 

[wayoflife]

I think Eddie might actually be wrong on this one!

You really should have upper control arms or your axle will just twist right off! You can't have a 2-link setup!

Hahaha

:cheesy: I guess I could've worded that better :doh:

:crazyeyes: :cheesy:

 

[Durbish]

Okay, I got that but, I guess I was wanting to know exactly how a draglink flip will cause you to loose it.

When you flip the drag link you need 3" plus tall bump stops or the drag link hits the frame on passenger side at bump. With no flip and correct length shocks, you can run 1.25" stops allowing more bump travel and more spring force.

 

[wayoflife]

When you flip the drag link you need 3" plus tall bump stops or the drag link hits the frame on passenger side at bump. With no flip and correct length shocks, you can run 1.25" stops allowing more bump travel and more spring force.

Ummm, just because you can get more up travel by running bump stop extensions that are too short doesn't mean it's something you should do. The primary point of running bump stops that are about the same height as your coils is first and foremost to help prevent the over compression of them.

Having said all that, I guess I don't have much up travel on my Jeep as I run a drag link flip and NO bump stops with my EVO DTD coil overs that are set at about 3.5" of lift and it doesn't hit my frame.

 

[olram30]

When you flip the drag link you need 3" plus tall bump stops or the drag link hits the frame on passenger side at bump. With no flip and correct length shocks, you can run 1.25" stops allowing more bump travel and more spring force.

The collapsed length of the factory shock is around 14.5". The collapsed length of the average bilstein shock people run is around 16.5". You would need a minimum of a 2" bump stop so you don't bottom out your shock and damage it. Where you came up with 1.25" is risky imo
Yes, to run a drag link flip you need a minimum of a 3" bump stop. But you can run the longer shock without having to worry about damaging them, plus save your coils from over compressing them, plus the added benefit of getting your drag link and track bar back to factory specs. Oh and the added bonus of correct roll center for better handling up front. Sounds like a good trade off for that extra inch of lost up travel.
I see manufactures in their infomercials try to brain wash people on this. I don't get it
Edit, and a quality flip kit like evo you can relocate your steering stabilizer to a safer location. Another added bonus

 

[Durbish]

The collapsed length of the factory shock is around 14.5". The collapsed length of the average bilstein shock people run is around 16.5". You would need a minimum of a 2" bump stop so you don't bottom out your shock and damage it. Where you came up with 1.25" is risky imo
Yes, to run a drag link flip you need a minimum of a 3" bump stop. But you can run the longer shock without having to worry about damaging them, plus save your coils from over compressing them, plus the added benefit of getting your drag link and track bar back to factory specs. Oh and the added bonus of correct roll center for better handling up front. Sounds like a good trade off for that extra inch of lost up travel.
I see manufactures in their infomercials try to brain wash people on this. I don't get it
Edit, and a quality flip kit like evo you can relocate your steering stabilizer to a safer location. Another added bonus

Sounds about right, Fox 2.5 are 15.61" so the math is good, the block height of my coils is not an issue.
When flipping the drag link you raise the track bar too, of course, that raises your front roll center, that's not factory specs, but I sure it feels like it drives better on the street. When track bar and drag link are closer to level, road fill would be better.

 

[olram30]

Sounds about right, Fox 2.5 are 15.61" so the math is good, the block height of my coils is not an issue.
When flipping the drag link you raise the track bar too, of course, that raises your front roll center, that's not factory specs, but I sure it feels like it drives better on the street. When track bar and drag link are closer to level, road fill would be better.

Ok, so you lost an inch down travel to try to gain 1" up travel by running a short shock just not too run a 3" bump stop...
So your telling me that if I raise my jeep 3-4" and raise my front axle side track bar bracket 3" that's not closer to stock specs? No different than the rear roll center correction brackets. The benefits of having my steering closer to stock and less stress on the joints is well worth it.

 

[Durbish]

Ok, so you lost an inch down travel to try to gain 1" up travel by running a short shock just not too run a 3" bump stop...
So your telling me that if I raise my jeep 3-4" and raise my front axle side track bar bracket 3" that's not closer to stock specs? No different than the rear roll center correction brackets. The benefits of having my steering closer to stock and less stress on the joints is well worth it.

I have a 10.25" travel shock, pretty standard I believe on a JK, At ride height I have 6" of shaft showing, so at bump (bottom out) the 145lbs springs generates a greater force than a 175lbs spring with 4.25" of travel, have a softer force at ride height, soft (plush) ride, and with better bump force.
As far as the rear track, raising it is a good idea, increasing the rear roll center from stock is good, makes the rear loose so in slides in a turn, and with the front roll center stock, it stay tight and doesn't push. Joints shouldn't be an issue as long as your parts don't bind, my setup cycled fine.

 

[olram30]

I have a 10.25" travel shock, pretty standard I believe on a JK, At ride height I have 6" of shaft showing, so at bump (bottom out) the 145lbs springs generates a greater force than a 175lbs spring with 4.25" of travel, have a softer force at ride height, soft (plush) ride, and with better bump force.
As far as the rear track, raising it is a good idea, increasing the rear roll center from stock is good, makes the rear loose so in slides in a turn, and with the front roll center stock, it stay tight and doesn't push. Joints shouldn't be an issue as long as your parts don't bind, my setup cycled fine.

Glad your set up is working for you. What lift kit are you running?

 

[wayoflife]

I have a 10.25" travel shock, pretty standard I believe on a JK, At ride height I have 6" of shaft showing, so at bump (bottom out) the 145lbs springs generates a greater force than a 175lbs spring with 4.25" of travel, have a softer force at ride height, soft (plush) ride, and with better bump force.
As far as the rear track, raising it is a good idea, increasing the rear roll center from stock is good, makes the rear loose so in slides in a turn, and with the front roll center stock, it stay tight and doesn't push. Joints shouldn't be an issue as long as your parts don't bind, my setup cycled fine.

I guess I should have welcomed you to WAYALIFE on my first post in this thread. I know you have been a member here since December of last year but see that you've only recently started making posts.

Having said that, I tried looking up the specs of your Jeep but you have none listed. Why don't you post up some pics and give us some specifics as to what all you have and maybe show everyone here why you believe what you have is such a great setup.

 

[Durbish]

Thanks, will do

 

[wayoflife]

Thanks, will do

:cheesy: That's twice now that you've completely avoided what I had to say. The least you could do is answer Olram30's question.

 

[Durbish]

Glad your set up is working for you. What lift kit are you running?

Custom front coils, BDS rear coils and misc parts from others, so it's a menagerie kit.

 

[wayoflife]

Custom front coils, BDS rear coils and misc parts from others, so it's a menagerie kit.

:cheesy: Thank you for answering his question. Olram30, can you please ask him to post up a pic of what his custom front coil looks like at a full flex? If at all possible, it'd be really great to see that shot where you can see the bump stop making full contact with your axle as well. :yup:

 

[Durbish]

:cheesy: That's twice now that you've completely avoided what I had to say. The least you could do is answer Olram30's question.

EZ what are you asking about a coil over kit?

 

[olram30]

Custom front coils, BDS rear coils and misc parts from others, so it's a menagerie kit.

Wow, custom coils.. can you post up some pictures of this set up? Maybe some flex shots? You caught my attention on this.