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View Full Version : 2.5" AEV lift what else



espi
01-05-2014, 06:33 AM
I have a 2013 JKU sport with 3.73 and 285/70r17 duratracs. I also have an after market full width bumper with winch. The max tire size I will get is 285/75r17. I am planning on getting an AEV 2.5" lift with Geo brackets and Northridge grade 8 bolts. What else should i be considering. Some recommend new rear sway bar links and move rears up front, or discos. Also front trackbar (not now but maybe later). I use the jeep as a DD (60 miles a day). I live in NJ and mostly do wooded trails and beach. I don't have any plans for rocks or ever going higher than 2.5"

wayoflife
01-05-2014, 06:41 AM
I have a 2013 JKU sport with 3.73 and 285/70r17 duratracs. I also have an after market full width bumper with winch. The max tire size I will get is 285/75r17. I am planning on getting an AEV 2.5" lift with Geo brackets and Northridge grade 8 bolts. What else should i be considering. Some recommend new rear sway bar links and move rears up front, or discos. Also front trackbar (not now but maybe later). I use the jeep as a DD (60 miles a day). I live in NJ and mostly do wooded trails and beach. I don't have any plans for rocks or ever going higher than 2.5"

Why a company would sell a 2.5" lift without new longer rear sway bar links or any means to address it is beyond me but, if you're determined to get this lift, yes, I would get new links. If you're not planning on playing on the rocks, there'd be no need to get disconnects - just install your factory links up front. As far as the grade 8 bolt kit goes, try not to listen to all the fear, uncertainty and doubt people with no experience try to push as necessary. Fact of the matter is, your factory bolts are 10.9 metric and they are STRONGER than grade 8. Needless to say, please do yourself a favor and save your money there. An adjustable front track bar is not necessary but, without one, your front axle will be off a bit - really, no big deal.

Army_Vet
01-05-2014, 10:24 AM
Lots of truth here^^^ I would listen to him:thumb:

steve_r2
01-05-2014, 11:19 AM
I have the AEV 2.5" and it is also my daily driver.
What I would add in are SumoSprings bumpstops. I know they are expensive for what they are .....but....... they have made my life a lot more comfortable when travelling on dirt/washboard trails.
For the type of driving I do I love what I have.

FireWire79
01-05-2014, 01:18 PM
I have a 2013 JKU sport with 3.73 and 285/70r17 duratracs. I also have an after market full width bumper with winch. The max tire size I will get is 285/75r17. I am planning on getting an AEV 2.5" lift with Geo brackets and Northridge grade 8 bolts. What else should i be considering. Some recommend new rear sway bar links and move rears up front, or discos. Also front trackbar (not now but maybe later). I use the jeep as a DD (60 miles a day). I live in NJ and mostly do wooded trails and beach. I don't have any plans for rocks or ever going higher than 2.5"

I was looking into getting that very kit when I was piecing together my build. Based on what I have read on this board, and I have done probablly too much reading, you may want to look for another kit for the money. The Teraflex 2.5" kit comes with the trackbar relocation brackets, as well as shock extensions, and brakeline extensions as well. The kit is priced under that of the AEV kit, and gets similiar reviews. With the TF kit you can run stock shocks with the extensions, or upgrade to Bilstein 5100s or Rancho 7000s and still come in around the cost of the AEV kit.

Since you plan on running approximately 33" tires, you require very little lift, and will still be fairly capable offroad without havintg to worry about other issues. One of the things I was informed about was the fact that your driveshafts MAY have to be replaced with a lift of that height. Apparently the stock driveshafts are prone to failure when being used in a lifted application.

I have actually "punked out" some and settled on a RE 2" budget lift and Rancho 7000s, for around $500. This will allow me to run upto a 35" tire, and SHOULD alleviate any driveline problems for a while. This is a nice way to allow you to run the tires that you want while you research some other kits that are available. That's just my :twocents:

wayoflife
01-05-2014, 03:12 PM
Since you plan on running approximately 33" tires, you require very little lift, and will still be fairly capable offroad without havintg to worry about other issues.

While a 285 will have an actual measurement of about 33", so does most tires that state 35" on the sidewall. A 265 would be more of an advertised 33".


One of the things I was informed about was the fact that your driveshafts MAY have to be replaced with a lift of that height. Apparently the stock driveshafts are prone to failure when being used in a lifted application.

Actually, it's not the lift per se but rather, the installation of shocks that are too long and allow for too much droop. You can damage your drive shaft with just a budget boost if you run shocks that are too long.

espi
01-05-2014, 03:13 PM
Why a company would sell a 2.5" lift without new longer rear sway bar links or any means to address it is beyond me but, if you're determined to get this lift, yes, I would get new links. If you're not planning on playing on the rocks, there'd be no need to get disconnects - just install your factory links up front. As far as the grade 8 bolt kit goes, try not to listen to all the fear, uncertainty and doubt people with no experience try to push as necessary. Fact of the matter is, your factory bolts are 10.9 metric and they are STRONGER than grade 8. Needless to say, please do yourself a favor and save your money there. An adjustable front track bar is not necessary but, without one, your front axle will be off a bit - really, no big deal.


Eddie,

I am pretty sure that the Grade 8 and Metric 10.9 are almost identical strengths.
http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/materials-and-grades/bolt-grade-chart.aspx

I was looking to replace the hardware since the grade 8 bolts seem to have a better fit. I know what slop in a system can do. I know you are not a fan of the AEV "lift kits" because the large use of brackets. I liked the AEV lift because you get progressive springs and shocks and do a good job of keeping the lift under 3". If you were to get a kit under $1500 including everything that offered an excellent on road ride and 2.5" of lift, but not to much that I need to change my drive shafts? I am totally open to suggestions, but I am not looking to upgrade in the future or go higher. My wife is already weary because she is only 4'9" and has a hard time getting in. So this will be a one and done lift.


To address the teraflex suggestion I have read that their kits have a tendency to sag. If this is unfounded I am all ears. I think part of the problem is there are so many options one can be overwhelmed and after reading so many reviews that this kit just works it makes you lean in that direction.

Thanks for all the help

Vince

espi
01-05-2014, 03:31 PM
Also something else to note. My aftermarket wheels have a BS of 5.2" similar to that of the AEV wheels. I know some kits tell you that you need a BS of at least 4.5".

turbineguy
01-05-2014, 03:44 PM
Eddie,

I am pretty sure that the Grade 8 and Metric 10.9 are almost identical strengths.
http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/materials-and-grades/bolt-grade-chart.aspx

I was looking to replace the hardware since the grade 8 bolts seem to have a better fit. I know what slop in a system can do. I know you are not a fan of the AEV "lift kits" because the large use of brackets. I liked the AEV lift because you get progressive springs and shocks and do a good job of keeping the lift under 3". If you were to get a kit under $1500 including everything that offered an excellent on road ride and 2.5" of lift, but not to much that I need to change my drive shafts? I am totally open to suggestions, but I am not looking to upgrade in the future or go higher. My wife is already weary because she is only 4'9" and has a hard time getting in. So this will be a one and done lift.


To address the teraflex suggestion I have read that their kits have a tendency to sag. If this is unfounded I am all ears. I think part of the problem is there are so many options one can be overwhelmed and after reading so many reviews that this kit just works it makes you lean in that direction.

Thanks for all the help

Vince

It says right on the AEV page about the 2.5 dualsport kit that "Lift heights will vary depending on actual vehicle weight."

I wouldn't be so sure about it not being higher than 2.5".

Have you checked out Rock Krawlers 1.5" lift systems? They have a great reputation and a 1.5" lift will still allow you to run 33's.

wayoflife
01-05-2014, 03:53 PM
I am pretty sure that the Grade 8 and Metric 10.9 are almost identical strengths.
http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/materials-and-grades/bolt-grade-chart.aspx

"almost" is right BUT, the 10.9 IS still stronger.


I was looking to replace the hardware since the grade 8 bolts seem to have a better fit. I know what slop in a system can do.

Slop is caused by people who fail to maintain their Jeep. If a better fit was all that was required to hold your Jeep together, there would be no need for TORQUE settings. But hey, you can believe whatever it is you want to believe. Once you replace your bolts, can I have your old ones? I'll even pay for shipping :yup:


I know you are not a fan of the AEV "lift kits" because the large use of brackets.

Oh please, if you really did know anything about me, the AEV 2.5" lift kit is about the only kit that I might recommend of theirs if only because it doesn't use their overpriced and weak control arm drop brackets.


I liked the AEV lift because you get progressive springs and shocks and do a good job of keeping the lift under 3".

And it is THIS that makes me not favor the AEV 2.5" lift. Not that it will matter to you being that you don't plan on playing on any rocks but, by it's design, progressive rate coils resist stuff and these in particular are too firm for my taste. Of course, ride quality is 100% subjective and to each their own. I prefer a softer ride especially for daily driving.


If you were to get a kit under $1500 including everything that offered an excellent on road ride and 2.5" of lift...

You're kidding right? If you do a little looking, I think you will find there are a host of other 2.5" lifts out there that are sold for UNDER $1000 that includes MORE than what you get with the 2.5" AEV kit and will actually address things like longer sway bar links and track bar relocation brackets. As far as "excellent on road ride" quality goes, a softer riding coil will get you that.


...but not to much that I need to change my drive shafts?

You would only need to change your front drive shaft IF you have a 2007-11 with an automatic AND are running longer shocks that allow for more droop. If you're just going to run the Bilsteins that come with the AEV kit and never plan on playing on the rocks, you won't need to worry about that. As far as the rear goes, IF you have a 2-door and do get 3" of actual lift, you will be needing to replace that sooner than later due to the steep angle your drive shaft will be sitting at. Of course, you will also need to get adjustable rear upper control arms to set your pinion angle when you do that.


My wife is already weary because she is only 4'9" and has a hard time getting in. So this will be a one and done lift.

That being said, she should know that you'll most likely be getting about 3" of lift out of your 2.5" AEV lift.


To address the teraflex suggestion I have read that their kits have a tendency to sag. If this is unfounded I am all ears.

I think you might be thinking about Rough Country, their coils do sag. TeraFlex has the opposite problem. They have some of the stiffest riding coils I have ever installed and tested and in any height they offer.


I think part of the problem is there are so many options one can be overwhelmed and after reading so many reviews that this kit just works it makes you lean in that direction.

So stop reading and get out there and find a few people with different lifts if you can go for a test ride. Everyone will tell you what they have is best but, if you can tune out what they have to say and just go off of what you feel, you can make a better and more educated decision. Again, ride quality is 100% subjective.

liljohn850
01-05-2014, 03:55 PM
if you're only going to be running 33's, and not playing in the rocks then you don't actually even "need" a lift. I mean, a stock JK with bump stops can rock 33's and look good while not changing much. If I were to re-do things I woulda just done a 2 inch lift, flat fenders and beefed stuff up more than now. You can do a budget boost, maybe even find a used on on the ol' CL or maybe even in the recycler. I'd drop a little coin on some 5100's (because they truly improve the ride quality) and be done with it. The amount of lift and the components needed are based on what you're going to be doing. If I was building a weekend camping trip type jeep that wouldn't see off-camber stuff or rocks, I'd grab a cheap budget boost.

As far as the AEV brackets and what not, I'm a little over 4 inches, maybe even at 5 inches (with ACOS I tend to change my front height like....weekly) of lift up front and I have the AEV brackets. They DRASTICALLY improved ride quality and handling... But...I'll never go above 4 inches of lift again...and if I ever redo my jeep I'll settle at 3 inches and go long arm. At two inches, I'm not really sure you'd really notice the geometry changes.

olram30
01-05-2014, 03:57 PM
just out of curiosity, is the 1/2" the determining factor? or would you lean towards either a 2" or 3"?

wayoflife
01-05-2014, 04:00 PM
It says right on the AEV page about the 2.5 dualsport kit that "Lift heights will vary depending on actual vehicle weight."

I wouldn't be so sure about it not being higher than 2.5".

You're absolutely right on this one. If you ask around, most people are getting about 3"+ out of their AEV 2.5" coils.


Have you checked out Rock Krawlers 1.5" lift systems? They have a great reputation and a 1.5" lift will still allow you to run 33's.

First off, a 285 will give an actual measurement of 33" but, a tire with 33" listed on the sidewall will have an actual measurement that is closer to 31.5". A 2.5" lift would be a better fit for them. Second, I personally would not recommend the RK 1.5" system as even their cheapest kit is still $1000 and doesn't even come with a rear track bar relocation bracket. Also, I really am not a fan of their control arms as even at their shortest setting, they sit at over 1" longer than stock. Even at 3" of lift, this is way too long and will cause rear coil rubbing on the track bar, bowing and other related issues. Also, I personally don't like how they use polyurethane bushings on the frame end joints as they tend to squeak. If 1.5" is all that is desired, I personally would recommend installing a set of coil spacers instead but, that's just my opinion.

liljohn850
01-05-2014, 04:02 PM
As far as the whole better fitting bolts...I'll agree that torque specs are there for a reason...If you own a jeep and wrench on your own jeep, go buy a torque wrench...It could save your front axle side track bar mount :doh:

And for those brackets again...I didn't pay the stupid price they ask...I got them from a guy going out of business :thumb: so I saved some change. For retail, there are cheaper alternatives.

Ride quality is totally up to you, ride in lifted jeeps, drive them, then decide. Don't just listen to reviews. I have a bastard built lift kit and it's a little rough for me, but hey, it was cheap :brows:

liljohn850
01-05-2014, 04:03 PM
If 1.5" is all that is desired, I personally would recommend installing a set of coil spacers instead but, that's just my opinion.

^^^^ Cheap, Easy, minimal change in geometry...did I mention cheap?

liljohn850
01-05-2014, 04:06 PM
understanding this may be higher than desired...but http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?13742-TeraFlex-Spacers-2-5-quot-F-amp-R just as an example of expected spending :beer:

wayoflife
01-05-2014, 04:09 PM
if you're only going to be running 33's, and not playing in the rocks then you don't actually even "need" a lift. I mean, a stock JK with bump stops can rock 33's and look good while not changing much. If I were to re-do things I woulda just done a 2 inch lift, flat fenders and beefed stuff up more than now. You can do a budget boost, maybe even find a used on on the ol' CL or maybe even in the recycler. I'd drop a little coin on some 5100's (because they truly improve the ride quality) and be done with it. The amount of lift and the components needed are based on what you're going to be doing. If I was building a weekend camping trip type jeep that wouldn't see off-camber stuff or rocks, I'd grab a cheap budget boost.

Again, I think it should be noted that a 285 will have an actual measurement that is closer to an advertised 35" tire. A 33" tire will have an actual measurement that is only about 31.5". Having said that, I too would agree, given the needs of the OP, I personally would just install a coil spacer lift and call it a day.


As far as the AEV brackets and what not, I'm a little over 4 inches, maybe even at 5 inches (with ACOS I tend to change my front height like....weekly) of lift up front and I have the AEV brackets. They DRASTICALLY improved ride quality and handling... But...I'll never go above 4 inches of lift again...and if I ever redo my jeep I'll settle at 3 inches and go long arm. At two inches, I'm not really sure you'd really notice the geometry changes.

5" of lift is SKY HIGH and yeah, without the drop brackets, the geometry of your control arms would be significantly off. Of course, as you've pointed out, going lower and utilizing long arms to do the same correction would be the better way to go. At 2", there is almost no effect on suspension geometry.


just out of curiosity, is the 1/2" the determining factor? or would you lean towards either a 2" or 3"?

Funny thing is, when it comes to coil lifts, it's really hard to get an exact number for anything. There are just so many determining factors and most companies tend to sell taller coils with the anticipation that you will load up your jeep with heavy bumpers, armor, etc. If you just want 2" of lift, the best way to do that is with coil spacers. That will give you an exact 2" of lift. OME sells a light duty 2" lift coil that I have found to yield close to 2" as well. For 3" of lift, most 2.5" lift coils will get you that if not a bit more. EVO Plush Ride coils made for 35's are about the only coil that I have seen to offer about 3" of lift. If you're trying to save on money and not have to deal with things like driveshafts, I would lean toward 2" of lift and factory shocks with extensions or shocks that are short enough to prevent drive shaft damage. IF you are willing to buy things like drive shafts, 3" is a good height for 35's and full factory fenders.

liljohn850
01-05-2014, 04:15 PM
Again, I think it should be noted that a 285 will have an actual measurement that is closer to an advertised 35" tire. A 33" tire will have an actual measurement that is only about 31.5". Having said that, I too would agree, given the needs of the OP, I personally would just install a coil spacer lift and call it a day.


I thought we beat this horse. lol. my "35's" actually measure out to like 33.5 ish depending on PSI...yada yada yada


5" of lift is SKY HIGH and yeah, without the drop brackets, the geometry of your control arms would be significantly off. Of course, as you've pointed out, going lower and utilizing long arms to do the same correction would be the better way to go. At 2", there is almost no effect on suspension geometry.


...yea...I kinda ended up here because I didn't wanna cut my fenders....:naw:


Funny thing is, when it comes to coil lifts, it's really hard to get an exact number for anything. There are just so many determining factors and most companies tend to sell taller coils with the anticipation that you will load up your jeep with heavy bumpers, armor, etc. If you just want 2" of lift, the best way to do that is with coil spacers. That will give you an exact 2" of lift. OME sells a light duty 2" lift coil that I have found to yield close to 2" as well. For 3" of lift, most 2.5" lift coils will get you that if not a bit more. EVO Plush Ride coils made for 35's are about the only coil that I have seen to offer about 3" of lift. If you're trying to save on money and not have to deal with things like driveshafts, I would lean toward 2" of lift and factory shocks with extensions or shocks that are short enough to prevent drive shaft damage. IF you are willing to buy things like drive shafts, 3" is a good height for 35's and full factory fenders.

^^^Rock Krawler even points this out on their site.


I wish I'da just stayed at a budget boost, ran fenderless and rocked out some 35's with shocks that droop and bump stops for days :rock: ....but....the DMV frowns on that type'a deal

olram30
01-05-2014, 04:17 PM
Funny thing is, when it comes to coil lifts, it's really hard to get an exact number for anything. There are just so many determining factors and most companies tend to sell taller coils with the anticipation that you will load up your jeep with heavy bumpers, armor, etc. If you just want 2" of lift, the best way to do that is with coil spacers. That will give you an exact 2" of lift. OME sells a light duty 2" lift coil that I have found to yield close to 2" as well. For 3" of lift, most 2.5" lift coils will get you that if not a bit more. EVO Plush Ride coils made for 35's are about the only coil that I have seen to offer about 3" of lift. If you're trying to save on money and not have to deal with things like driveshafts, I would lean toward 2" of lift and factory shocks with extensions or shocks that are short enough to prevent drive shaft damage. IF you are willing to buy things like drive shafts, 3" is a good height for 35's and full factory fenders.
i was going to recommend to the op to look at the rancho 2" sport, 300 bucks and probably do what he wants. 3" probably evo or rancho 3" sport,but price and more stuff needed.

liljohn850
01-05-2014, 04:20 PM
Even TF can't mess up a budget boost and some shock extensions ;) even though..the price may still be a little...high:naw:

wayoflife
01-05-2014, 04:28 PM
i was going to recommend to the op to look at the rancho 2" sport, 300 bucks and probably do what he wants. 3" probably evo or rancho 3" sport,but price and more stuff needed.

These are all very good suggestions.


Even TF can't mess up a budget boost and some shock extensions ;) even though..the price may still be a little...high:naw:

:cheesy: This is definitely something that's hard to mess up :crazyeyes:

espi
01-05-2014, 04:28 PM
I don't want a spacer life at all. To some of you I already have 33s and a heavy bumper with winch so my front sags. I want between 2 and 3" of lift.

Eddie, I do not claim to really know you or know you at all. I did read your comments that the 2.5" lift on another. I honestly appreciate your advice as well as everyone else's. I have been doing research and wish i could take some test rides. Have a 15 month old and two jobs makes that a little difficult, but will look into it.

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liljohn850
01-05-2014, 04:34 PM
If you're sagging and want 3", then an advertised lift of 3 inches would actaully be pretty close to 3 inches for you. I don't toot companies horns, but the EVO plush ride coils are legit...they're plush. I loved them in my XJ. (don't ask...my financial religion is jew, and I damn near got em for free)

But, the Rock Krawler 2.5's seem like a logical move, and right on point for desired lift. At that height geometry changes are minimal. A front track bar, rear track bar bracket and some sway bar end links...brake lines yada yada and you're set. One issue I see is that your back spacing of your wheels MIGHT not be enough. but then again, I'm uncertain, but wheel spacers are cheap too...errrr, can be. lol


You're options really are endless. I'll say that the RK springs ride pretty decent.

turbineguy
01-05-2014, 04:50 PM
If 1.5" is all that is desired, I personally would recommend installing a set of coil spacers instead but, that's just my opinion.

Too tell the truth, when I first read the OPs first post, my first thought was that he should just get a leveling kit. He could save a bunch of money, but people like to spend money on cool stuff they really don't need.

I know, cause I'm guilty! (but will continue to do it anyway, because, Men need toys).

espi
01-05-2014, 05:24 PM
Too tell the truth, when I first read the OPs first post, my first thought was that he should just get a leveling kit. He could save a bunch of money, but people like to spend money on cool stuff they really don't need.

I know, cause I'm guilty! (but will continue to do it anyway, because, Men need toys).

I was going to get a level kit, but I wanted a little more ground clearance for trails here and I really like that height. I am also going to eventually run 34s so I want to plan for them now.

A couple other things spacers are illegal in NJ and your tread can't stick past the fender that's why I went with that BS and tire width. I actually like the stock fenders so not looking to change them.

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espi
01-05-2014, 10:53 PM
does anyone have experience with RK 2.5 triple rate coils?

Keeping options open maybe piece together a kit.

RK 2.5" triple rate coils
Fox 2.0 shocks
2" bump stops
New rear links ( move the rears up front)
Rear track bar not sure brand
Front trackbar not sure brand
AEV Geo brackets (not worried about bashing them). I don't think I can do adjustable CA with my wheel BS of 5.2
Prob need brake line extensions.

wayoflife
01-05-2014, 11:34 PM
does anyone have experience with RK 2.5 triple rate coils?

Keeping options open maybe piece together a kit.

RK 2.5" triple rate coils
Fox 2.0 shocks
2" bump stops
New rear links ( move the rears up front)
Rear track bar not sure brand
Front trackbar not sure brand
AEV Geo brackets (not worried about bashing them). I don't think I can do adjustable CA with my wheel BS of 5.2
Prob need brake line extensions.

Here's a link that will help answer your question:

http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?12243-Rides-like-a-tank-RK-3-5&highlight=Rides+tank

Exactly why wouldn't you be able to run adjustable control arms with your wheels?

espi
01-06-2014, 12:25 AM
Here's a link that will help answer your question:

http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?12243-Rides-like-a-tank-RK-3-5&highlight=Rides+tank

Exactly why wouldn't you be able to run adjustable control arms with your wheels?

For the adj CA I was reading they suggest 4.5" BS wheels.

Thanks for the link deff lots of opinions and info. With the plush coils when you say softer do you mean more like a Cadillac instead of feeling every pot hole and bump?

Also Evo claims their coils run tru to size so if I have a 4 door with heavy bumper i should be at 3" or less and would I need to do something with my exhaust or drive shaft?

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Jason W.
01-06-2014, 01:42 AM
With what you are looking to do simplicity keeps coming to mind, Flat flares(hand trim stock or bushwacker flats), wheel spacers if needed, 33,s and done. Keep all youre stock geometrys and keep the wife happy with the Jeep not being too high.

Eddie has done a great write up on trimming youre flares, you could do 33,s with very little cost.

Just my opinion here, what ever you decide to do on lift do it with the best parts you can afford the first time, doing things twice will get old and expensive fast.

espi
01-06-2014, 01:59 AM
With what you are looking to do simplicity keeps coming to mind, Flat flares(hand trim stock or bushwacker flats), wheel spacers if needed, 33,s and done. Keep all youre stock geometrys and keep the wife happy with the Jeep not being too high.

Eddie has done a great write up on trimming youre flares, you could do 33,s with very little cost.

Just my opinion here, what ever you decide to do on lift do it with the best parts you can afford the first time, doing things twice will get old and expensive fast.

I am not sure what flat fenders is going to do for me. I want a little lift. Some of the trails we run have decent puddles and I have gotten stuck floating on my gas tank skid. Also sometimes the center of the trails are pretty high.

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Jason W.
01-06-2014, 02:05 AM
I am not sure what flat fenders is going to do for me. I want a little lift. Some of the trails we run have decent puddles and I have gotten stuck floating on my gas tank skid. Also sometimes the center of the trails are pretty high.

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I say that because youre only true lift is at youre lowest points(your differintials/axles) is gained through tire size, and using flat flares will allow you to run a larger tire to achieve that, and yes I realize breakover clearance is gained by suspension lift and by tire size(your undercarriage height). I was just letting you know that you can achieve it with just youre fender flare clearance and a larger tire.

liljohn850
01-06-2014, 02:11 AM
piecing a lift together will get pricey, quickly. the downside to the RK kits is that shocks aren't in the price. People like northgridge really hook us up with building a lift and a package deal. I'd give em a call, say this is what I want to achieve, this is what I have, this is what I want to spend...GO! That way you have a guy on the phone and not a lot of :asshat:'s giving you all this info :) My biggest piece of advice is buy what you want the first go 'round and never look back. You'll save this route and if you're doing the work yourself, only do the work once. I don't know how many sets of shocks I've changed, only done springs twice I think. But, If I ever build another jeep, one and done. no questions asked.

turbineguy
01-06-2014, 02:23 AM
My biggest piece of advice is buy what you want the first go 'round and never look back. You'll save this route and if you're doing the work yourself, only do the work once. I don't know how many sets of shocks I've changed, only done springs twice I think. But, If I ever build another jeep, one and done. no questions asked.

Where's the fun in that? Also bad for the economy.

Kidding. I agree sort of, but I can also see the benefits of buying something temporarily to tie you over. I'm planning on replacing my BDS with a full Metalcloak system this year. I will recoup 50% on Craigslist if lucky. It still got me through the last two years until I was in position to go large.

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liljohn850
01-06-2014, 02:26 AM
Where's the fun in that? Also bad for the economy.

Kidding. I agree sort of, but I can also see the benefits of buying something temporarily to tie you over. I'm planning on replacing my BDS with a full Metalcloak system this year. I will recoup 50% on Craigslist if lucky. It still got me through the last two years until I was in position to go large.

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Oh I fully agree with doing that. If you're plan is to "hold your self over" by all means. But I think the OP plan is a one and done type deal. Well...that might be his plan. But my plan was just a little lift and 35's....Now I'm looking at axles.... and....Long arms and coilovers. See what happened there? lol.

espi
01-06-2014, 03:14 AM
Oh I fully agree with doing that. If you're plan is to "hold your self over" by all means. But I think the OP plan is a one and done type deal. Well...that might be his plan. But my plan was just a little lift and 35's....Now I'm looking at axles.... and....Long arms and coilovers. See what happened there? lol.

That is my plan. Do it right the first time. The other thing is I know I can get the main components ie springs, shocks, bump stops, sway bar links and add front track bar later if I want. Like I said before i am currently on 33s and have some sag from my after market bumper and winch.
63113

I like the way the AEV 2.5" looks with 33s and more so with 34s, but I am not sure 33s will look good with a 3+" lift. And with regard to the short wife I guess ill start carrying a step stool lol.
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wayoflife
01-06-2014, 04:08 AM
For the adj CA I was reading they suggest 4.5" BS wheels.

Exactly where did you read this nonsense? Did they explain why?


Thanks for the link deff lots of opinions and info. With the plush coils when you say softer do you mean more like a Cadillac instead of feeling every pot hole and bump?

Yes, as in they do a better job of providing a smoother ride.


Also Evo claims their coils run tru to size so if I have a 4 door with heavy bumper i should be at 3" or less and would I need to do something with my exhaust or drive shaft?

True to size as in a standard JK will sit at 3" of lift with their coils made for 35's and 4" of lift for their coils made for 37's. If you add tons of gear, your lift height will be lower.

webejeepin
01-25-2014, 03:29 PM
Well had my mind set on a 2.5" coil lift then just read this thread. Doh! Lost of great info here as I use my Jeep in a similar way the OP does. Considering the AEV, TF in 2.5" and open to suggestions.

Do WANT to add bumpers as I build...do I NEED them not really. Anyone have any experience with the TF BB and a mid width bumper up front and a rear number no tire carrier out the back. Say 100 lbs each. Guessing I will loose 0.5" ?
Any other cautions?

I would be adding bumpers as I go due to budget.

The idea of the TF BB with extension then 5100's might not be a bad path for me to follow.

Thanks

NFRs2000NYC
01-25-2014, 11:17 PM
Eddie,

I am pretty sure that the Grade 8 and Metric 10.9 are almost identical strengths.
http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/materials-and-grades/bolt-grade-chart.aspx

I was looking to replace the hardware since the grade 8 bolts seem to have a better fit. I know what slop in a system can do. I know you are not a fan of the AEV "lift kits" because the large use of brackets. I liked the AEV lift because you get progressive springs and shocks and do a good job of keeping the lift under 3". If you were to get a kit under $1500 including everything that offered an excellent on road ride and 2.5" of lift, but not to much that I need to change my drive shafts? I am totally open to suggestions, but I am not looking to upgrade in the future or go higher. My wife is already weary because she is only 4'9" and has a hard time getting in. So this will be a one and done lift.


To address the teraflex suggestion I have read that their kits have a tendency to sag. If this is unfounded I am all ears. I think part of the problem is there are so many options one can be overwhelmed and after reading so many reviews that this kit just works it makes you lean in that direction.

Thanks for all the help

Vince

Just wanted to add, although grade 10.9 metric and grade 8 standard have the same psi numbers, a 10.9 metric bolt vs an 8 shouldered bolt which is slightly larger (less free space in the hole) would yield a stronger joint, as it can eliminate leverage and freeplay.

http://forum.aev-conversions.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=8607&d=1385525757

Both the 10.9 and the 8 bolts are far stronger than what the Jeep is able to dish out.
If we are talking apples to apples (grade 8 vs 10.9 fully threaded undersized bolt), the 10.9 bolt will win because it is a harder alloy...however, we are not talking apples to apples but apples vs sliced apples....the grade 8 bolt in this case is shouldered, which changes the numbers quite a bit. If you want the best of both worlds, you can get grade 9 shouldered bolts, but in my personal opinion, that's way overkill.

The grade 8 bolt also has the bonus of having a higher clamping force for a given amount of torque. This is beneficial for things like trackbars where clamping force is welcome. Also, if you can shear a grade 8 shouldered bolt on your trackbar, chances are, you have much bigger issues to worry about.

I agree with Eddie that those stupid AEV front brackets to extend the sway links are moronic, and a lot of people have problems because of them. Get a set of crown OEM JK REAR links for the front....they are a perfect fit and keep the swaybar nice and parallel. I would also recommend a front adjustable trackbar if you want everything lined up nicey nice.

Dannyboy76
01-28-2014, 07:22 PM
Well after reading all of this, I have learned a little bit more. I haven’t started my building yet. My plan is to hit some trails, and beach not do anything really with rock crawling. I was looking at TF 2.5 BB with shocks and spring or the AEV 2.5 that comes with everything. I have read not only here but also on other post that the TF is a stiffer ride. And that the AEV rides similar to that. Can maybe someone let me(us) know. I personally don’t mind a little bit of a stiffer ride. Thus why I was leaning more toward the AEV. But I don't want something so stiff. I have a 2008 JKU 4 door.

steve_r2
01-29-2014, 03:24 AM
Well after reading all of this, I have learned a little bit more. I haven’t started my building yet. My plan is to hit some trails, and beach not do anything really with rock crawling. I was looking at TF 2.5 BB with shocks and spring or the AEV 2.5 that comes with everything. I have read not only here but also on other post that the TF is a stiffer ride. And that the AEV rides similar to that. Can maybe someone let me(us) know. I personally don’t mind a little bit of a stiffer ride. Thus why I was leaning more toward the AEV. But I don't want something so stiff. I have a 2008 JKU 4 door.

Dannyboy...... I have the AEV kit and IMHO its way better than when I was on my stock setup.
Some prefer the Rancho shocks instead of the Bilsteins and I can not comment on how that feels but there are plenty of people who love them and Eddie rates them.
I happen to have the Bilsteins and find they are comfortable...yes they are a little firm but that pays of when going cross country.
2009 JKU 4 door

webejeepin
01-29-2014, 10:54 PM
^Thanks Steve_r2

espi
02-01-2014, 04:49 AM
I ended up going with the AEV 2.5 and Rancho drop brackets. I got 2.75" front and 3.5" rear.

before
67060

After
67061

Thanks for everyone's help.

Ldogg
02-01-2014, 03:31 PM
Looks good.

ImLost7
03-17-2015, 04:25 PM
I ended up going with the AEV 2.5 and Rancho drop brackets. I got 2.75" front and 3.5" rear.

before
67060

After
67061

Thanks for everyone's help.


Looks great! 2 questions:
1. What size tires are you running?
2. What are your driving impressions of the AEV lift? On road & trails?

I ask because I am currently running a TF levelling kit and I am justifying the increased height by a smoother than stock ride on road.

Mjay
03-17-2015, 06:27 PM
Holy resurrection batman.

ImLost7
03-17-2015, 06:38 PM
At least I know someone is reading this thread:clap2: . And I won't get smacked around about using the "Search" function. Double bonus.

espi
03-17-2015, 07:01 PM
Looks great! 2 questions:
1. What size tires are you running?
2. What are your driving impressions of the AEV lift? On road & trails?

I ask because I am currently running a TF levelling kit and I am justifying the increased height by a smoother than stock ride on road.

In the photos I was running 285/70r17 (33s), but now I am running 317/70r17.

I like the lift for what I use it for, driving on the beach and hitting the local trails. No rock crawling for me.
I was going to get a leveling kit, but after adding a front bumper and winch the springs would not have handled the weight.
The lift rides better than stock if you have added weight. Without weight you may find it to be stiff. It does handle and corner much better than stock. I have put over 15000 miles on the Jeep since the lift and the highway handling is great. One thing that helps handling is the Rancho control arm bracket.

I know a lot of people are not fond of the AEV lifts due to brackets and such, but I think the 2.5" lift is priced well and only thing I really have to complain about is the front sway bar link extensions. They are retarded and if you are running wheels with at least 4.5" back space or stock wheels and spacers I would get longer rear links and move your rears up front or just get disconnects for the front.

At the end of the day I am pleased, but I would caution you if you do not plan to add weight I would look at maybe piecing together a lift. Get some progressive rate coils or the Evo plush ride have been talked about a lot on here for having a smooth ride some adjustable shocks like the Rancho 9000s.