2.5" AEV lift what else

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
i was going to recommend to the op to look at the rancho 2" sport, 300 bucks and probably do what he wants. 3" probably evo or rancho 3" sport,but price and more stuff needed.

These are all very good suggestions.

Even TF can't mess up a budget boost and some shock extensions ;) even though..the price may still be a little...high:naw:

:cheesy: This is definitely something that's hard to mess up :crazyeyes:
 

espi

New member
I don't want a spacer life at all. To some of you I already have 33s and a heavy bumper with winch so my front sags. I want between 2 and 3" of lift.

Eddie, I do not claim to really know you or know you at all. I did read your comments that the 2.5" lift on another. I honestly appreciate your advice as well as everyone else's. I have been doing research and wish i could take some test rides. Have a 15 month old and two jobs makes that a little difficult, but will look into it.

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liljohn850

New member
If you're sagging and want 3", then an advertised lift of 3 inches would actaully be pretty close to 3 inches for you. I don't toot companies horns, but the EVO plush ride coils are legit...they're plush. I loved them in my XJ. (don't ask...my financial religion is jew, and I damn near got em for free)

But, the Rock Krawler 2.5's seem like a logical move, and right on point for desired lift. At that height geometry changes are minimal. A front track bar, rear track bar bracket and some sway bar end links...brake lines yada yada and you're set. One issue I see is that your back spacing of your wheels MIGHT not be enough. but then again, I'm uncertain, but wheel spacers are cheap too...errrr, can be. lol


You're options really are endless. I'll say that the RK springs ride pretty decent.
 

turbineguy

New member
If 1.5" is all that is desired, I personally would recommend installing a set of coil spacers instead but, that's just my opinion.

Too tell the truth, when I first read the OPs first post, my first thought was that he should just get a leveling kit. He could save a bunch of money, but people like to spend money on cool stuff they really don't need.

I know, cause I'm guilty! (but will continue to do it anyway, because, Men need toys).
 

espi

New member
Too tell the truth, when I first read the OPs first post, my first thought was that he should just get a leveling kit. He could save a bunch of money, but people like to spend money on cool stuff they really don't need.

I know, cause I'm guilty! (but will continue to do it anyway, because, Men need toys).

I was going to get a level kit, but I wanted a little more ground clearance for trails here and I really like that height. I am also going to eventually run 34s so I want to plan for them now.

A couple other things spacers are illegal in NJ and your tread can't stick past the fender that's why I went with that BS and tire width. I actually like the stock fenders so not looking to change them.

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espi

New member
does anyone have experience with RK 2.5 triple rate coils?

Keeping options open maybe piece together a kit.

RK 2.5" triple rate coils
Fox 2.0 shocks
2" bump stops
New rear links ( move the rears up front)
Rear track bar not sure brand
Front trackbar not sure brand
AEV Geo brackets (not worried about bashing them). I don't think I can do adjustable CA with my wheel BS of 5.2
Prob need brake line extensions.
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
does anyone have experience with RK 2.5 triple rate coils?

Keeping options open maybe piece together a kit.

RK 2.5" triple rate coils
Fox 2.0 shocks
2" bump stops
New rear links ( move the rears up front)
Rear track bar not sure brand
Front trackbar not sure brand
AEV Geo brackets (not worried about bashing them). I don't think I can do adjustable CA with my wheel BS of 5.2
Prob need brake line extensions.

Here's a link that will help answer your question:

http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?12243-Rides-like-a-tank-RK-3-5&highlight=Rides+tank

Exactly why wouldn't you be able to run adjustable control arms with your wheels?
 

espi

New member
Here's a link that will help answer your question:

http://wayalife.com/showthread.php?12243-Rides-like-a-tank-RK-3-5&highlight=Rides+tank

Exactly why wouldn't you be able to run adjustable control arms with your wheels?

For the adj CA I was reading they suggest 4.5" BS wheels.

Thanks for the link deff lots of opinions and info. With the plush coils when you say softer do you mean more like a Cadillac instead of feeling every pot hole and bump?

Also Evo claims their coils run tru to size so if I have a 4 door with heavy bumper i should be at 3" or less and would I need to do something with my exhaust or drive shaft?

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Jason W.

New member
With what you are looking to do simplicity keeps coming to mind, Flat flares(hand trim stock or bushwacker flats), wheel spacers if needed, 33,s and done. Keep all youre stock geometrys and keep the wife happy with the Jeep not being too high.

Eddie has done a great write up on trimming youre flares, you could do 33,s with very little cost.

Just my opinion here, what ever you decide to do on lift do it with the best parts you can afford the first time, doing things twice will get old and expensive fast.
 
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espi

New member
With what you are looking to do simplicity keeps coming to mind, Flat flares(hand trim stock or bushwacker flats), wheel spacers if needed, 33,s and done. Keep all youre stock geometrys and keep the wife happy with the Jeep not being too high.

Eddie has done a great write up on trimming youre flares, you could do 33,s with very little cost.

Just my opinion here, what ever you decide to do on lift do it with the best parts you can afford the first time, doing things twice will get old and expensive fast.

I am not sure what flat fenders is going to do for me. I want a little lift. Some of the trails we run have decent puddles and I have gotten stuck floating on my gas tank skid. Also sometimes the center of the trails are pretty high.

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Jason W.

New member
I am not sure what flat fenders is going to do for me. I want a little lift. Some of the trails we run have decent puddles and I have gotten stuck floating on my gas tank skid. Also sometimes the center of the trails are pretty high.

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I say that because youre only true lift is at youre lowest points(your differintials/axles) is gained through tire size, and using flat flares will allow you to run a larger tire to achieve that, and yes I realize breakover clearance is gained by suspension lift and by tire size(your undercarriage height). I was just letting you know that you can achieve it with just youre fender flare clearance and a larger tire.
 

liljohn850

New member
piecing a lift together will get pricey, quickly. the downside to the RK kits is that shocks aren't in the price. People like northgridge really hook us up with building a lift and a package deal. I'd give em a call, say this is what I want to achieve, this is what I have, this is what I want to spend...GO! That way you have a guy on the phone and not a lot of :asshat:'s giving you all this info :) My biggest piece of advice is buy what you want the first go 'round and never look back. You'll save this route and if you're doing the work yourself, only do the work once. I don't know how many sets of shocks I've changed, only done springs twice I think. But, If I ever build another jeep, one and done. no questions asked.
 

turbineguy

New member
My biggest piece of advice is buy what you want the first go 'round and never look back. You'll save this route and if you're doing the work yourself, only do the work once. I don't know how many sets of shocks I've changed, only done springs twice I think. But, If I ever build another jeep, one and done. no questions asked.

Where's the fun in that? Also bad for the economy.

Kidding. I agree sort of, but I can also see the benefits of buying something temporarily to tie you over. I'm planning on replacing my BDS with a full Metalcloak system this year. I will recoup 50% on Craigslist if lucky. It still got me through the last two years until I was in position to go large.

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liljohn850

New member
Where's the fun in that? Also bad for the economy.

Kidding. I agree sort of, but I can also see the benefits of buying something temporarily to tie you over. I'm planning on replacing my BDS with a full Metalcloak system this year. I will recoup 50% on Craigslist if lucky. It still got me through the last two years until I was in position to go large.

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Oh I fully agree with doing that. If you're plan is to "hold your self over" by all means. But I think the OP plan is a one and done type deal. Well...that might be his plan. But my plan was just a little lift and 35's....Now I'm looking at axles.... and....Long arms and coilovers. See what happened there? lol.
 

espi

New member
Oh I fully agree with doing that. If you're plan is to "hold your self over" by all means. But I think the OP plan is a one and done type deal. Well...that might be his plan. But my plan was just a little lift and 35's....Now I'm looking at axles.... and....Long arms and coilovers. See what happened there? lol.

That is my plan. Do it right the first time. The other thing is I know I can get the main components ie springs, shocks, bump stops, sway bar links and add front track bar later if I want. Like I said before i am currently on 33s and have some sag from my after market bumper and winch.
1388977793102.jpg

I like the way the AEV 2.5" looks with 33s and more so with 34s, but I am not sure 33s will look good with a 3+" lift. And with regard to the short wife I guess ill start carrying a step stool lol.
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wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
For the adj CA I was reading they suggest 4.5" BS wheels.

Exactly where did you read this nonsense? Did they explain why?

Thanks for the link deff lots of opinions and info. With the plush coils when you say softer do you mean more like a Cadillac instead of feeling every pot hole and bump?

Yes, as in they do a better job of providing a smoother ride.

Also Evo claims their coils run tru to size so if I have a 4 door with heavy bumper i should be at 3" or less and would I need to do something with my exhaust or drive shaft?

True to size as in a standard JK will sit at 3" of lift with their coils made for 35's and 4" of lift for their coils made for 37's. If you add tons of gear, your lift height will be lower.
 
Well had my mind set on a 2.5" coil lift then just read this thread. Doh! Lost of great info here as I use my Jeep in a similar way the OP does. Considering the AEV, TF in 2.5" and open to suggestions.

Do WANT to add bumpers as I build...do I NEED them not really. Anyone have any experience with the TF BB and a mid width bumper up front and a rear number no tire carrier out the back. Say 100 lbs each. Guessing I will loose 0.5" ?
Any other cautions?

I would be adding bumpers as I go due to budget.

The idea of the TF BB with extension then 5100's might not be a bad path for me to follow.

Thanks
 

NFRs2000NYC

Caught the Bug
Eddie,

I am pretty sure that the Grade 8 and Metric 10.9 are almost identical strengths.
http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/materials-and-grades/bolt-grade-chart.aspx

I was looking to replace the hardware since the grade 8 bolts seem to have a better fit. I know what slop in a system can do. I know you are not a fan of the AEV "lift kits" because the large use of brackets. I liked the AEV lift because you get progressive springs and shocks and do a good job of keeping the lift under 3". If you were to get a kit under $1500 including everything that offered an excellent on road ride and 2.5" of lift, but not to much that I need to change my drive shafts? I am totally open to suggestions, but I am not looking to upgrade in the future or go higher. My wife is already weary because she is only 4'9" and has a hard time getting in. So this will be a one and done lift.


To address the teraflex suggestion I have read that their kits have a tendency to sag. If this is unfounded I am all ears. I think part of the problem is there are so many options one can be overwhelmed and after reading so many reviews that this kit just works it makes you lean in that direction.

Thanks for all the help

Vince

Just wanted to add, although grade 10.9 metric and grade 8 standard have the same psi numbers, a 10.9 metric bolt vs an 8 shouldered bolt which is slightly larger (less free space in the hole) would yield a stronger joint, as it can eliminate leverage and freeplay.

attachment.php


Both the 10.9 and the 8 bolts are far stronger than what the Jeep is able to dish out.
If we are talking apples to apples (grade 8 vs 10.9 fully threaded undersized bolt), the 10.9 bolt will win because it is a harder alloy...however, we are not talking apples to apples but apples vs sliced apples....the grade 8 bolt in this case is shouldered, which changes the numbers quite a bit. If you want the best of both worlds, you can get grade 9 shouldered bolts, but in my personal opinion, that's way overkill.

The grade 8 bolt also has the bonus of having a higher clamping force for a given amount of torque. This is beneficial for things like trackbars where clamping force is welcome. Also, if you can shear a grade 8 shouldered bolt on your trackbar, chances are, you have much bigger issues to worry about.

I agree with Eddie that those stupid AEV front brackets to extend the sway links are moronic, and a lot of people have problems because of them. Get a set of crown OEM JK REAR links for the front....they are a perfect fit and keep the swaybar nice and parallel. I would also recommend a front adjustable trackbar if you want everything lined up nicey nice.
 
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Dannyboy76

New member
Well after reading all of this, I have learned a little bit more. I haven’t started my building yet. My plan is to hit some trails, and beach not do anything really with rock crawling. I was looking at TF 2.5 BB with shocks and spring or the AEV 2.5 that comes with everything. I have read not only here but also on other post that the TF is a stiffer ride. And that the AEV rides similar to that. Can maybe someone let me(us) know. I personally don’t mind a little bit of a stiffer ride. Thus why I was leaning more toward the AEV. But I don't want something so stiff. I have a 2008 JKU 4 door.
 
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steve_r2

New member
Well after reading all of this, I have learned a little bit more. I haven’t started my building yet. My plan is to hit some trails, and beach not do anything really with rock crawling. I was looking at TF 2.5 BB with shocks and spring or the AEV 2.5 that comes with everything. I have read not only here but also on other post that the TF is a stiffer ride. And that the AEV rides similar to that. Can maybe someone let me(us) know. I personally don’t mind a little bit of a stiffer ride. Thus why I was leaning more toward the AEV. But I don't want something so stiff. I have a 2008 JKU 4 door.

Dannyboy...... I have the AEV kit and IMHO its way better than when I was on my stock setup.
Some prefer the Rancho shocks instead of the Bilsteins and I can not comment on how that feels but there are plenty of people who love them and Eddie rates them.
I happen to have the Bilsteins and find they are comfortable...yes they are a little firm but that pays of when going cross country.
2009 JKU 4 door
 
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