37's on a Dana 30?? Also, EVO vs Genright Rear carrier

I wanna make sure I understand this properly, as long as we are talking about breaking gears.

A Rubicon front Dana 44 is not a true Dana 44 R&P?

The R&P and shafts are Dana 44 but that's about it. The tubes, end forgings and knuckles are all Dana 30.

A Pro Rock 44's R&P is no stronger than a normal Dana 44 (none Rubicon) but the strength in the Pro Rock is the axle housing strength as well as the knuckles and shafts?

Is this correct or am I totally wrong? :bleh:

A ProRock 44 housing is BETTER than a true Dana 44. It's called a "44" because it still uses a 44 R&P and shafts.
 
Ok so there is no gussets needed for a Pro Rock 44, correct?

correct. no guesset, sleeve or truss needed. it is truly a significantly stronger housing. alos, when you get a prorock, you are most likely getting RCV shafts (much stronger) too. you will most likely reuse outer knuckles, but everyone says they have never seen those break so should be fine.
 
correct. no guesset, sleeve or truss needed. it is truly a significantly stronger housing. alos, when you get a prorock, you are most likely getting RCV shafts (much stronger) too. you will most likely reuse outer knuckles, but everyone says they have never seen those break so should be fine.

I have run RCV's and they are nice and strong and maybe too strong at the joint. For the $400 premium, I would say that they are totally unnecessary. A standard set of chromoly front shafts with full circle clips will do the job just fine. As far as the knuckles go, factory ones are fine.
 
correct. no guesset, sleeve or truss needed. it is truly a significantly stronger housing. alos, when you get a prorock, you are most likely getting RCV shafts (much stronger) too. you will most likely reuse outer knuckles, but everyone says they have never seen those break so should be fine.

When I order my Pro Rock 44 I will actually not get RCV shafts because I want my shafts weaker than my R&P so I will get Chromoly shafts. I am actually going to get Reid Knuckles because I like the fact that they are red (black and red are the colors of my Jeep) and they don't cost too much so why not.


Also, whats the difference between the standard housing the extreme duty and the unlimited?
 
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When I order my Pro Rock 44 I will actually not get RCV shafts because I want my shafts weaker than my R&P so I will get Chromoly shafts.

To be clear, a standard chomoly shaft is still very strong and you still can break it at the shaft or at your gears just like an RCV. The biggest reason to go with chromoly with full circle clips is that they are about $400 cheaper.

I am actually going to get Reid Knuckles because I like the fact that they are red (black and red are the colors of my Jeep) and they don't cost too much so why not.

:cheesy: Are you kidding me?? They cost almost $600 for the pair and will only give you about 1" of additional clearance at the tie-rod. You would be better served spending that money on a quality HD tie-rod. But of course, if money is no object, there's nothing wrong with getting colorful knuckles. :crazyeyes:
 
To be clear, a standard chomoly shaft is still very strong and you still can break it at the shaft or at your gears just like an RCV. The biggest reason to go with chromoly with full circle clips is that they are about $400 cheaper.



:cheesy: Are you kidding me?? They cost almost $600 for the pair and will only give you about 1" of additional clearance at the tie-rod. You would be better served spending that money on a quality HD tie-rod. But of course, if money is no object, there's nothing wrong with getting colorful knuckles. :crazyeyes:

Hmm thought the last time I looked up prices they were a good bit cheaper, guess not. Thoght they would have it sit higher than that. But anyways when I do get a Pro Rock it will be something that I have saved up for and will most certainly be a long term buy so the details will be much more researched and it will be exactly what I want.
 
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Oh and still curious the difference between the standard housing and the extreme duty and the unlimited.
 
Hmm thought the last time I looked up prices they were a good bit cheaper, guess not. Thoght they would have it sit higher than that. But anyways when I do get a Pro Rock it will be something that I have saved up for and will most certainly be a long term buy so the details will be much more researched and it will be exactly what I want.

You were probably just looking at one. You need to get a pair - that makes it double what you probably saw.

Oh and still curious the difference between the standard housing and the extreme duty and the unlimited.

Axle tube thickness and a few other features. The Unlimited comes with extra features like 1/2" thick tubes, built in caster, outboard shock mounts.
 
When I order my Pro Rock 44 I will actually not get RCV shafts because I want my shafts weaker than my R&P so I will get Chromoly shafts. I am actually going to get Reid Knuckles because I like the fact that they are red (black and red are the colors of my Jeep) and they don't cost too much so why not.


Also, whats the difference between the standard housing the extreme duty and the unlimited?

the RCV shafts have a cool looking red ball thing that you see (whatever part is called) so for color choice, that would probably show more than reid knuckles and a few hundred cheaper!
 
does anyone know if you need wheels spacers or anything like that if i change from my 35's with XD wheels to 37's? they will just be higher, not wider i guess? i would think 37 x 12.5 x 17...
 
does anyone know if you need wheels spacers or anything like that if i change from my 35's with XD wheels to 37's? they will just be higher, not wider i guess? i would think 37 x 12.5 x 17...

Depends on what tire you go with. Some 37's are 12.5 and some are 13.5

The trail grappler is still 12.5 and will fit just fine where the mud grappler is a 13.5 and I may be crazy but when you put a 35 mud grappler next to a 35 trail grappler the mud still seems a little wider but that could be due to the really thick side lugs.

Also the Toyo 37 is 13.5 as well. I'm sure there are others but those are the few that I know of off hand.
 
FYI poison spyder is making a new tire carrier that is very similar to the genright. It has some nice upgrades compared to the genright. Should be out soon. There are some cool changes to it vs the version they displayed at the expo and posted on line. The evo is the nicest one IMO but doesn't work with my comp cut so I've been looking to replace my teraflex carrier.
 
FYI poison spyder is making a new tire carrier that is very similar to the genright. It has some nice upgrades compared to the genright. Should be out soon. There are some cool changes to it vs the version they displayed at the expo and posted on line. The evo is the nicest one IMO but doesn't work with my comp cut so I've been looking to replace my teraflex carrier.

I sure hope they change some of the lines as it looked way fugly to me. Aside from EVO, I really like the Genright tire carrier - on a setup like yours, it looks badass!!

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I sure hope they change some of the lines as it looked way fugly to me. Aside from EVO, I really like the Genright tire carrier - on a setup like yours, it looks badass!!

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Yes, i saw the PS one as well and really was not impressed....
 
I'm waiting to see the final production version before I make my decision between the two. I did check out the genright on that two door and one thing i didnt like was how the latch pins interfere with the taillights. Easy fix though. I do like the preload adjustment on the new psc carrier as well. There are some changes to it that I know of but not sure how radical they will be. Big Lar would only say so much. Here's some pics of the first version for those who haven't seen it yet. View attachment 57961View attachment 57960View attachment 57959View attachment 57962
 
does anyone know if you need wheels spacers or anything like that if i change from my 35's with XD wheels to 37's? they will just be higher, not wider i guess? i would think 37 x 12.5 x 17...

What is the backspacing on your wheels? I ask because my wheels have 4.75 backspacing and that was fine when I was running my 35s no rub at all at full turn. When I put my 37s on I figured its the same width no big deal so i shouldnt rub. I was wrong because the tires have a larger circumference and rubbed my frame at full lock. I added washers to my steering stops at first but still rubbed a little. I wanted my full turning radius back so i got 1.5 inch wheel spacers. this stopped the rubbing completely and gave me about 3.25 inches of total backspace (1.5 spacers - 4.75 backspace wheels). so to answer your question you will need 3.5 inches of backspacing with 37x12.50x17 tires if you dont want to rub and want full turning radius. figure out what backspacing your running now and go from there
 
I love the competition of aftermarket carriers, and PS makes some damn sexy JK stuff but damn this is an ugly carrier. I hope they do make changes but as of now I'll be sticking with the planned genright
 
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