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Thread: Dana 30 vs Dana 44

  1. #1
    Caught the Bug Rincos's Avatar
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    Dana 30 vs Dana 44

    Hi guys !
    I keep trying to find a real comparison chart with detailed specs and measurements between Dana 30 and Dana 44 front axle but I couldn't !
    So I need to know if there's any difference in the actual tube thickness between the two ?
    If anyone has this info please share !
    Thanks a lot !


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  2. #2
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    Tube size is the same. The only difference between the two is the diff housing, everything else is identical.

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    Administrator wayoflife's Avatar
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    Close but not exactly. Both Dana 30 and Dana 44 JK front axles share the same tubes, end forgings, knuckles and brakes. The Dana 44 is only a 44 because of it's larger differential and beefier shafts which have bigger joints and a greater spline count - it's more of a hybrid 44 than a true 44.

  4. #4
    Administrator wayoflife's Avatar
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    Here's some more specific info on both:

    DANA 30
    Dana 30 front axles have a 7-1/8″ diameter ring gear and come standard on Sahara and X model Jeep JK Wranglers with a gear ratio of 3.21. For 2007, an optional 4.10 gear ratio was available on towing packages. In 2008, this was changed and the only optional factory gear ratio now available is 3.73. Dana 30 front axles do not come with any limited slip or locking differentials. Dana 30 axle shafts are 27 spline.

    DANA 44
    Dana 44 axles have an 8-1/2″ diameter ring gear and now come standard on the rear end of all Jeep JK Wranglers. Sahara, Sport and X models come standard with 3.21 gear ratio. In 2007, optional towing packages were available with a 4.10 gear ratio. In 2008, the only optional factory gear ratio available is now 3.73. A limited slip differential is available as an option and as of 2008, a selectable electric locking differential is available as an option as well. All Rubicon model Jeep JK Wranglers come standard with front and rear Dana 44 axles, a 4.10 gear ratio and selectable electric locking differentials. Dana 44 axle shafts are 30 spline.

    Here's a pic I took to help give you a better idea of ring gear size differences:



    And, here's a couple of pics I took to help give you a better idea of axle shaft size differences:

    Shafts


    Stub Shafts

  5. #5
    Caught the Bug Rincos's Avatar
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    Thanks a lot you guys ! I was under the impression that the tubes of the axle (not shafts) were thicker !


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  6. #6
    Caught the Bug Rincos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wayoflife View Post
    Here's some more specific info on both:

    DANA 30
    Dana 30 front axles have a 7-1/8″ diameter ring gear and come standard on Sahara and X model Jeep JK Wranglers with a gear ratio of 3.21. For 2007, an optional 4.10 gear ratio was available on towing packages. In 2008, this was changed and the only optional factory gear ratio now available is 3.73. Dana 30 front axles do not come with any limited slip or locking differentials. Dana 30 axle shafts are 27 spline.

    DANA 44
    Dana 44 axles have an 8-1/2″ diameter ring gear and now come standard on the rear end of all Jeep JK Wranglers. Sahara, Sport and X models come standard with 3.21 gear ratio. In 2007, optional towing packages were available with a 4.10 gear ratio. In 2008, the only optional factory gear ratio available is now 3.73. A limited slip differential is available as an option and as of 2008, a selectable electric locking differential is available as an option as well. All Rubicon model Jeep JK Wranglers come standard with front and rear Dana 44 axles, a 4.10 gear ratio and selectable electric locking differentials. Dana 44 axle shafts are 30 spline.

    Here's a pic I took to help give you a better idea of ring gear size differences:



    And, here's a couple of pics I took to help give you a better idea of axle shaft size differences:

    Shafts


    Stub Shafts

    Thank you for all the details !
    Guess Dana 60 is the way to go if you are thinking of running 37s !

    For Dana 44 enhancement would you go with the 14 bolt truss or the sleeve and the gussets reinforced ?



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  7. #7
    Administrator wayoflife's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rincos View Post
    Thank you for all the details !
    Guess Dana 60 is the way to go if you are thinking of running 37s !
    Only if you have the funds for one. I run a Dynatrac ProRock 44 with 37's and it gets the job done well. I run a ProRock 60 on my other JK that's running 40's and wouldn't run anything less.

    For Dana 44 enhancement would you go with the 14 bolt truss or the sleeve and the gussets reinforced ?
    Neither - both are a waste of money if you really plan on playing hard enough to need them as your axle will still bend and really, a bent axle won't keep you from getting home. If you really want to throw money at your Dana 44, I would just get gussets as they are cheap and will help prevent certain bending of the axle C's and I would get chromoly shafts with full circle clips. That will buy you some time. Otherwise, I would just play with what you've got until you can afford to get a Dynatrac ProRock 44 Unlimited which is BETTER than a true 44.

  8. #8
    Caught the Bug Rincos's Avatar
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    Neither - both are a waste of money if you really plan on playing hard enough to need them as your axle will still bend and really, a bent axle won't keep you from getting home. If you really want to throw money at your Dana 44, I would just get gussets as they are cheap and will help prevent certain bending of the axle C's and I would get chromoly shafts with full circle clips. That will buy you some time. Otherwise, I would just play with what you've got until you can afford to get a Dynatrac ProRock 44 Unlimited which is BETTER than a true 44.

    That's an interesting information ! I always thought that the enhancements are worth it


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  9. #9
    Administrator wayoflife's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rincos View Post
    That's an interesting information ! I always thought that the enhancements are worth it
    That's because "the enhancements" are trendy and most of that is because each addition is somewhat affordable. Guys like the idea that they throw a few hundred dollars here and a few hundred there at an axle with tiny thin tubes and make it as bullet proof as a purpose built axle that has 3" diameter tubes that are 1/2" thick and with massive end forgings.

    Fact of the matter is, a factory housing will hold up well enough with just gussets if all you do is rock crawl as that won't put too much stress on the tubes. The shafts are where you'll really see things go south and if anything, is where you should be putting your money. Now, if you live out west and like to bomb through the desert, I can assure you that sleeves or trusses won't do squat to prevent the eventual bending of your axles right where the tubes mate to the diff. How do I know? I have seen it happen time and time again over the last 7+ years but, you can take what I have to say for whatever it's worth.

    Again, if it were me, I would just play with what you got and save your money until you can invest in a ProRock 44. Depending on how hard you really play, you may never even need one. Me, I was able to get about 1 year or about 65,000 miles out of my factory front 44 before it was bent enough that I wanted to swap it out and once I got there, I had enough saved to make it happen.

  10. #10
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    I'm walking/talking proof of what Eddie is talking about. With all the money I spent trying to "beef up" my D30 front, I could've easily bought a D60. In the long run I wound up basically paying for 2 front axles. Only thing I succeeded in doing was making that D30 look pretty.

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