2 Door stretch. Comp cut. Tons. 40s

T

tuckn2s

New member
I bought my jeep back in 2014 and a few days later it was lifted on 35 mtrs with a 3.5" lift. Knowing what my plans were thats about all I did to it knowing it would all come back apart sooner or later.

Well, 2.5 years later. I finally got started

The plans are 8-10" stretch. One tons from a 03 superduty. And coil overs

A few days after I bought it. 78k miles (today it has 81k)

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Out wheeling with a few buddies

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Hood louver

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Now onto the good stuff

I stripped the jeep down about 6 months ago. Traded the stock axles for a set of one tons. Had to much other stuff going on so I didn't have time to work on it. Nor wanted to heat my shop during the winter

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03 ford Dana 60/sterling 10.5

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So after this point the jeep sat. And just a few days ago I came across a set of 03 ford axles on Craigslist. They had 5.13 gears and arb lockers front and rear. Also came with front and rear artec swap kits. Rear 4 link kit. Tie rod and drag link kit. Arb compressor. He was asking 6k for it all end I walked away with it for 3500 which was a steal.

So now I have all these parts and it's time to get to work

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More to come..


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Front tacked up

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Cutting some control arms

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Will be using stock mounting locations on the rear. The arms are 9.5" longer then stock

The mounts will be beefed up. I couldn't see spending 400$ on synergy stretch brackets which mount the arms in roughly the same place as stock.

If I don't like it, nothing a grinder and welder can't fix

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Mocked up

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I was sent the wrong misalignment spacers for the heims so I just ordered new ones

Ordered a weld on rock krawler rear track bar mount
Synergy upper coil over mount, I will be using 12" travel shocks and coil spring for the time being till I can afford coilovers. When I do swap to coilovers I can simply unbolt the shocks and bolt in the coilovers in no time

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And found a set of poison spyder crusher corners local that have been filled in and ready to cut them how I want. Will have them this week

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Arb mounted

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Switches mounted. I need a rear locker switch cover if anyone has one

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More progress once parts start rolling in end of the week

For now I'm back to work on my f100


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So I've noticed that a lot of the guys that do the Sterling axle swaps tend to add the trusses. In fact, I don't think I've ever seen one done that isn't trussed.
Is there a reason for that? I mean, you're going to one ton axles in a relatively light weight vehicle. Do the sterling axles tend to bend or break?
 
Ddays said:
So I've noticed that a lot of the guys that do the Sterling axle swaps tend to add the trusses. In fact, I don't think I've ever seen one done that isn't trussed.
Is there a reason for that? I mean, you're going to one ton axles in a relatively light weight vehicle. Do the sterling axles tend to bend or break?
Click to expand...

People will tell you that you need the truss for the mounting brackets. I say BS. Jut get the brackets and weld them on. You shouldn't need a truss unless these axles aren't all they are cracked up to be
 
Ddays said:
So I've noticed that a lot of the guys that do the Sterling axle swaps tend to add the trusses. In fact, I don't think I've ever seen one done that isn't trussed.
Is there a reason for that? I mean, you're going to one ton axles in a relatively light weight vehicle. Do the sterling axles tend to bend or break?
Click to expand...

They reinforce the bracket system, i haven't seen a company that makes the one ton bracket system without a truss. I guess it's there for the reinforcement aspect?
 
Some of them have the truss to mount on the upper arm bracket for a Johnny Joint but call it a bridge. It's not a full truss. And some of the rear ones have the bridge if you're going to run a triangulated 4 link. Basically it gives you a point to mount brackets above a pumpkin.
 
Love me a nice and low stretched 2 door. Look forward to seeing it finished. :thumb:
 
cozdude said:
People will tell you that you need the truss for the mounting brackets. I say BS. Jut get the brackets and weld them on. You shouldn't need a truss unless these axles aren't all they are cracked up to be
Click to expand...

RebelconJk said:
They reinforce the bracket system, i haven't seen a company that makes the one ton bracket system without a truss. I guess it's there for the reinforcement aspect?
Click to expand...

WJCO said:
Some of them have the truss to mount on the upper arm bracket for a Johnny Joint but call it a bridge. It's not a full truss. And some of the rear ones have the bridge if you're going to run a triangulated 4 link. Basically it gives you a point to mount brackets above a pumpkin.
Click to expand...

NecessaryEvil said:
I would not want to run a truss on either axles, being the axles are already so heavy and should not need the reinforcement in the first place. Just my opinion
Click to expand...

I thought all of these things but wasn't sure if there wasn't some other underlying reason for the trusses. I mean these are on 1 ton pickups with 10,000 GVRW's so I wouldn't think that extra reinforcement would be necessary.
Not trying to be a jackass, just wondered.
 
Ddays said:
So I've noticed that a lot of the guys that do the Sterling axle swaps tend to add the trusses. In fact, I don't think I've ever seen one done that isn't trussed.
Is there a reason for that? I mean, you're going to one ton axles in a relatively light weight vehicle. Do the sterling axles tend to bend or break?
Click to expand...

The main reason I'm using the truss is because with the artec kit. All of the brackets are located off the truss. Sure I could have located the brackets and took the truss off. But I had it. And it was there. So why not use it. But no. A truss is totally not necessary at all with how strong these axles are to begin with.


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