2012 Dozer JKU - this might take a while

devonn216

devonn216

Member
Amrth said:
Man, that's looks like something shot through it! did you get to know by leaks or any particular sound from engine bay??
Click to expand...

Yeah that's what it looks like, but idk how the thermostat would shoot out of there and I don't see how something could get up in there. I was just driving down the interstate and then I noticed a big cloud of steam and then the temp started rising. I didn't hear anything.


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devonn216

devonn216

Member
Went out to local Topless Day at Motobilt in Dothan, AL yesterday.

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Mine and my buddies LJ

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This looks familiar...

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This was the cleanest one out there. I like the gloss black everything with the gold accents.

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devonn216

devonn216

Member
So I had that bad thermostat replaced about two months ago and now the temp gauge started creeping up from the halfway mark where it normally sits to about the 3/4 mark on the gauge when I'm cruising at 70-80 mph sustaining 2500 and above rpm. On a 8 hour drive last weekend I noticed it for the first time and pulled over to find out that it had gone through all of the coolant in the reservoir. I Took it back to the same shop that swapped the thermostat when I got stranded last time and they did a pressure test and found no leaks and couldn't find anything wrong. They said it's probably an air pocket that will work itself out. Oil looks clean to me. Coolants are fine. Bleeder screw is tight. Any ideas?


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WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
Replace your cap for cheap insurance. It's cheap. And a cap can lose pressure and coolant with no visual evidence. Check your oil for coolant intermix to be safe as well. Also make sure bugs/mud aren't blocking the radiator or condenser.
 
devonn216

devonn216

Member
Well I took it into another shop and they said it was the water pump, specifically the fins inside the pump had probably broken off and therefore it wasn't moving enough coolant through the system. I took the water pump off and it was in immaculate condition; not a thing wrong with it. I put it back on with a new gasket, flushed the system, and refilled with new coolant. It's still running hotter than normal though.


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devonn216

devonn216

Member
I haven’t posted in a WHILE. It’s been over a year. I’ve been super busy with Army stuff so I haven’t done anything Jeep related. The last issue I posted about turned out to be another bad thermostat just like I suspected. It took a whole bunch of convincing to the get that shop to replace the thermostat again.


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TOPLESS

TOPLESS

Caught the Bug
Stay safe! The JLU is growing on me but if your close to paying off or have paid off the jk you probably could build a badass jk.
 
devonn216

devonn216

Member
I’m looking for any pointers on the route I think I’m going to go. I’m thinking about the UD44 up front which is pretty much a complete deal. I am trying to decide if I should just run the factory E-locker that comes with it or swap it for an ARB right out of the gate. Going to go with 4.88 gears and re-gear the back obviously. Also going to put in an ARB locker in the rear. Haven’t decided if I want to upgrade the rear shafts now or wait until/if they break. ARB twin compressor. MCE fenders; the stock trimmed fenders really bug me. Probably the most hated thing on my Jeep right now. 37s all around. Either going to delete the spare or get a carrier. Haven’t decided that either. As far as tires I’m leaning towards the new BFG KM3s or Nittos.


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wjtstudios

wjtstudios

Hooked
I haven’t been around the UD 44, so i can’t comment on that, but for sure go with the ARBs especially if you are already planning on doing the rear. The ease of locking up whenever and wherever you are is well worth the investment.

To warn you, you will more than likely deal with bent rear axle shaft flanges sooner than later. I had good luck with revolution shafts that lasted longer than the OEM and are lifetime warranted.

Other things that you should plan on are the dynatrac big brake kit and a psc big bore XDllR to turn those wheels. Turning the 37s on anything other than pavement becomes a good arm workout.

Good luck with the build!


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WJCO

WJCO

Meme King
devonn216 said:
I’m looking for any pointers on the route I think I’m going to go. I’m thinking about the UD44 up front which is pretty much a complete deal. I am trying to decide if I should just run the factory E-locker that comes with it or swap it for an ARB right out of the gate. Going to go with 4.88 gears and re-gear the back obviously. Also going to put in an ARB locker in the rear. Haven’t decided if I want to upgrade the rear shafts now or wait until/if they break. ARB twin compressor. MCE fenders; the stock trimmed fenders really bug me. Probably the most hated thing on my Jeep right now. 37s all around. Either going to delete the spare or get a carrier. Haven’t decided that either. As far as tires I’m leaning towards the new BFG KM3s or Nittos.


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Click to expand...

The Ultimate Dana 44 isn't really that ultimate. It has the same tubes and Cs as your factory axle. I looked into this axle as well and went with Dynatrac instead. If you're spending that kind of money on an axle, why not get the best you can? The Dynatrac tubes are bigger and thicker than the UD44. They have a trail leader package that comes with a PR44 front axle and a rear locker with new shafts. Good bang for the buck for what it comes with.
 
13_gecko_rubi

13_gecko_rubi

Caught the Bug
WJCO said:
The Ultimate Dana 44 isn't really that ultimate. It has the same tubes and Cs as your factory axle. I looked into this axle as well and went with Dynatrac instead. If you're spending that kind of money on an axle, why not get the best you can? The Dynatrac tubes are bigger and thicker than the UD44. They have a trail leader package that comes with a PR44 front axle and a rear locker with new shafts. Good bang for the buck for what it comes with.
Click to expand...
I'd still recommend dynatrac or something else but the U44 has thicker tubes (5/16) and larger Cs (like the Recon axle).

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