37's, Axles and upgrades

R

RedRocker

New member
Clearskies said:
Okay, let's say I waited to go to PR 60.... 40" tires. I'll need new beadlocks $3000...new tires...$2000-2500, excluding that, any idea what I'm looking at price wise????
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Don't forget hydro assist steering if you don't already have it.

Clearskies said:
And that is exactly WHY I asked here on Wayalife... I know there is a ton of experience here and it's a great resource.
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BaddestCross

BaddestCross

Active Member
C gussets, Chromoly Axleshafts with full-circle clips, don't drive like an idiot. That should be enough to run 37s on a Rubicon until you can afford to go bigger if that's what you want.

Your factory ball joints and possibly your unit bearings will wear faster depending on your setup, so just keep your eye on them and upgrade as necessary.

Like you keep saying, you're just getting involved in the sport... Wheel your Jeep and you'll find what you need to upgrade to accommodate what you do as you go along. Don't be one of these idiots that spend a shit ton of money all at once and then end up having to sell your Jeep once the credit card bills hit.

--
Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
 
fiend

fiend

Caught the Bug
Clearskies said:
Okay, let's say I waited to go to PR 60.... 40" tires. I'll need new beadlocks $3000...new tires...$2000-2500, excluding that, any idea what I'm looking at price wise????
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Realistically you’re looking at $17-20k all in for 40s. Figure $13k for Dynatrac hard core 60/60 axles. About $3-4 for new beadlock wheels and tires. About $1500 for drive shafts. About $2k for hydro assist steering. Tax, shipping and, unless you wrench yourself, labor on top of all that. That’s a lot of cheddar.
 
Clearskies

Clearskies

Caught the Bug
BaddestCross said:
C gussets, Chromoly Axleshafts with full-circle clips, don't drive like an idiot. That should be enough to run 37s on a Rubicon until you can afford to go bigger if that's what you want.

Your factory ball joints and possibly your unit bearings will wear faster depending on your setup, so just keep your eye on them and upgrade as necessary.

Like you keep saying, you're just getting involved in the sport... Wheel your Jeep and you'll find what you need to upgrade to accommodate what you do as you go along. Don't be one of these idiots that spend a shit ton of money all at once and then end up having to sell your Jeep once the credit card bills hit.

--
Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
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Good advice James... I know for sure at this point I'm going to keep using my 35's and decide what to do when I'm close to needing to replace them. I don't need a 3rd set of partially used tires in my garage!!!

And I don't use CC's. If I don't have the cash, I don't do it!!
 
Clearskies

Clearskies

Caught the Bug
fiend said:
Realistically you’re looking at $17-20k all in for 40s. Figure $13k for Dynatrac hard core 60/60 axles. About $3-4 for new beadlock wheels and tires. About $1500 for drive shafts. About $2k for hydro assist steering. Tax, shipping and, unless you wrench yourself, labor on top of all that. That’s a lot of cheddar.
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Thanks, That's pretty much what I was thinking...

I'm already into my Jeep for almost 65k....
I want to go bigger, I'm just trying to weight all my options and have a plan for the future..
 
TrailHunter

TrailHunter

Hooked
I think Dynatrac came out with 60’s that use standard bolt pattern... (to save guys money on buying new wheels) but maybe thats ok for 37’s and not so much for 40’s....
 
fiend

fiend

Caught the Bug
Personal opinion with which others may differ, but I see little point in a SF60, and especially for going 40s.
 
wayoflife

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Clearskies said:
I've been thinking about the possibility that eventually I'll end up with 40's and then I'd have wasted money on the PR44's but I've been seriously Wheeling for about 6 months and loving it, but to me, going to 40's is a huge step.... I may end up wasting money but I'm just not ready to pull that trigger.
I think I'm inclined to go the next step, get the 37's, wheel until I'm close to needing to replace them and make the decision then on 40's. Maybe I'll be happy with 37's... And it's still a DD....
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Hey Don, being that you're just now getting into all this and have only been wheeling "seriously" for the last 6 months, may I suggest you not let all the 40's hype run you over and just slow things down a bit. Thanks to the JK, 40's are all the rage but really, most of the guys I see running them are posers who end up getting themselves into trouble and in a way that an experienced driver running 35's would never. Also, unless you're willing to spend big money, you better be ready to break a lot of shit with 40's - that is, IF you really play hard with them. Sure, I run 40's but this is what I do for a living and it it weren't, I'd still be running 37's. The later really is the perfect size for a JKU. Of course, I'm new to all this Jeep stuff and this is all just my opinion.

In this series, Rubicat was still running 37's. The LJ was running 39's and Currie was running 39 stickies. On obstacles like Rock Chucker, the final climb out of Metal Masher, the Creek Climb on Cliff Hanger or even the double bumps, I think you'll see we did alright with just 37's.

 
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