5.13 & 37s VS 5.38 & 40s

dillard09

New member
I had this dilemma about 3 years ago.
I went with PR44 front/PR60 rear.

Not sure if what I say matters. But I'd go all out if I did it again. 60/80.
My budget couldn't do it then or now.

Good luck with the sale of your son!

So why would you do the 60/80? Please do explain!
 

2Cross

Caught the Bug
So why would you do the 60/80? Please do explain!

I think if you're going to go for it
GO BIG.... Or get a buggy if you want to do hard trails. I'll sell you my buggy if you want $16k.
LS3 to TH400 to Atlas II. D60s with 39" stickies. ImageUploadedByWAYALIFE1440730308.918925.jpg
 

dillard09

New member
I think if you're going to go for it
GO BIG.... Or get a buggy if you want to do hard trails. I'll sell you my buggy if you want $16k.
LS3 to TH400 to Atlas II. D60s with 39" stickies. <img src="http://wayalife.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=162175"/>

That's not a bad thought. I could buy a buggy for the price of axles. But then I would need a tow truck. Damn that's more than axles.
Sweet ride! I bet that thing is fun! I was working on a CJ7 project but I just stalled out on it. Had 3 jeeps at once so something had to go. Had dana 60 and dana 70hd stretched with 3 link and 4 link set up for 14" coilovers. 37's w/ H1 beadlocks. Didn't have a motor or tranny but had a dana 300 w/ 4 to 1. I actually gave the jeep to a friend of mine. No money down and no payments.
 

2Cross

Caught the Bug
That's not a bad thought. I could buy a buggy for the price of axles. But then I would need a tow truck. Damn that's more than axles.
Sweet ride! I bet that thing is fun! I was working on a CJ7 project but I just stalled out on it. Had 3 jeeps at once so something had to go. Had dana 60 and dana 70hd stretched with 3 link and 4 link set up for 14" coilovers. 37's w/ H1 beadlocks. Didn't have a motor or tranny but had a dana 300 w/ 4 to 1. I actually gave the jeep to a friend of mine. No money down and no payments.

Cool CJ7 project.
Like you said. Then you have a trailer queen and need a tow rig.

Thing about good axles is that they are like family heirlooms. 60/80
 

dillard09

New member
Cool CJ7 project.
Like you said. Then you have a trailer queen and need a tow rig.

Thing about good axles is that they are like family heirlooms. 60/80

And a place to park the CJ and the trailer in Socal. Not going to happen.
Yes the 60/80 would be the last axles I would need to buy prob 4ever.
 

dillard09

New member
IrishJK has a PR44 all tabbed for DTD for sale right now. Would save you some money. Just a heads up.

I did see that. And he is not to far from me too. Still confused on the different housing for what locker. I know IrishJK has rubi locker in his PR44 but if want to go ARB down the road. That's still possible correct.
Thanks for the heads up OverlanderJK!
 

wayoflife

Administrator
Staff member
Been on the road and just saw this thread and here's my 2 cents.

Being that you have a 3.8L motor, 5.38's is the ratio that would give you what you are looking for regardless of what setup you end up going with BUT, the pinion in a Dana 44 will be really small and will be a weak point. With a set of 37's and on a front axle, you may be able to make it work out for you and without issue depending on how hard and how often you push it. If it were me, I would stick with 5.13's in a Dana 44 but that's based on my personal experience.

Regarding rear axles, being that you will not be doing a motor swap, a full float ProRock 60 might still be worth considering. There is definitely something to be said about a high pinion setup as it will help keep your drive shaft sitting at a more shallow angle and help keep your pinion yoke out of harms way. Of course, you would be riding on the weak side of the ring gear but you might be able to make it last longer with a 3.8L. This is not to say that you couldn't break it as I have seen several blow even with a 3.8L motor and guys like Trail Bud and KenB1010 come to mind on this. If you play as hard as them, a ProRock 80 would be what I would recommend. I should note that Dynatrac didn't necessary come out with the ProRock 80 for guys doing motor swaps but rather, because they were seeing that guys were breaking their 60's just fine without a V8.
 

2011jk

Member
PR60 front and PR80 FF rear with 5.38 and 40s, PR 80 doesn't cost much more than a PR60 and you may want a LS someday.
I'd also get the brake upgrade on the front..stops my 6400lb JK insainly fast and doesn't require a MC change.
 

dillard09

New member
Been on the road and just saw this thread and here's my 2 cents.

Being that you have a 3.8L motor, 5.38's is the ratio that would give you what you are looking for regardless of what setup you end up going with BUT, the pinion in a Dana 44 will be really small and will be a weak point. With a set of 37's and on a front axle, you may be able to make it work out for you and without issue depending on how hard and how often you push it. If it were me, I would stick with 5.13's in a Dana 44 but that's based on my personal experience.

Regarding rear axles, being that you will not be doing a motor swap, a full float ProRock 60 might still be worth considering. There is definitely something to be said about a high pinion setup as it will help keep your drive shaft sitting at a more shallow angle and help keep your pinion yoke out of harms way. Of course, you would be riding on the weak side of the ring gear but you might be able to make it last longer with a 3.8L. This is not to say that you couldn't break it as I have seen several blow even with a 3.8L motor and guys like Trail Bud and KenB1010 come to mind on this. If you play as hard as them, a ProRock 80 would be what I would recommend. I should note that Dynatrac didn't necessary come out with the ProRock 80 for guys doing motor swaps but rather, because they were seeing that guys were breaking their 60's just fine without a V8.

That's similar to what I was thinking. As my rig is building my experience is too. I know that if I do go with a PR44 in the front I will stay with 5.13 just so I don't have the pinion as the weak point. I would rather have a shaft or u joint as the weak link.
So for the rear, a 60FF is 8 lug so a PR44 is out of the question unless i get a hybrid 44/60. But can that with stand 40s? If not than it must be a PR60 in the front.
How does a PR44/PR60SF hold up to 37's? Can you beat on them the way you can with a PR60/60 on 40s?
Did you have Moby on 40s with 5.38 and the 3.8L? Is so how was on the highway?

Btw What do you know your just a mall crawler, right?
 

dillard09

New member
^^^^this, buy once, cry once

I hear ya. That kinds the way im leaning but don't want to have to do the LS or Hemi swap to soon cause I can't pull a hill with the 40s, 5.38 and 3.8. Right now with the 37's, 5.13, loaded with gear, Ole Betsy struggles up some of the hills through Cali, Utah, and Colorado. Its so hard to swallow when you pushing 4000 rpms at 40 and getting passed by semis. I hate that worse than getting passed by a Prius.
 

Irish JK

Caught the Bug
That's similar to what I was thinking. As my rig is building my experience is too. I know that if I do go with a PR44 in the front I will stay with 5.13 just so I don't have the pinion as the weak point. I would rather have a shaft or u joint as the weak link.
So for the rear, a 60FF is 8 lug so a PR44 is out of the question unless i get a hybrid 44/60. But can that with stand 40s? If not than it must be a PR60 in the front.
How does a PR44/PR60SF hold up to 37's? Can you beat on them the way you can with a PR60/60 on 40s?
Did you have Moby on 40s with 5.38 and the 3.8L? Is so how was on the highway?

Btw What do you know your just a mall crawler, right?

You can get a two piece adapter for the PR44 front to match the 60FF rear.
 
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