A comparison for coilovers vs rear cantilever from those that know.

Brute

Hooked
I actually considered a Genright Elite suspension for my JK6...it was down to either that or the EVO DTD ...I went with EVO after not getting much feedback from Genright in regard to me using Dynatrac axles...they were trying to convince me to use Currie axles. I've had several sets of Dynatracs before, always have been well satisfied with them...and I also never regretted the EVO suspension on the JK6
 

Irish JK

Caught the Bug
14" of wheel travel up front and 16" in the rear. Front 3 link binds less up front and rear is double triangulated which is ideal. I've been wheeling my Evo bolt on long arm kit for a while now and it gets the job done but has some serious limitations that I've found.

What are the serious limitations of the EVO bolt on long arm kit?


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RSQCON

Member
Brute they are now supporting the use of Dynatrac axles although it is limited to the XD60 front and 80 rear. I have been speaking with them at length trying to figure out if my PR60/60 setup is compatible. They recommend different width along with caster/pinion angles so I am working through that right now.
What are the serious limitations of the EVO bolt on long arm kit?
My rear lower arm frame mount constantly hits when I am trying to climb a ledge. I've spoken to Evo about running the high clearance arms they use with the cantilever setup and it's not recommended by them although many people have done it. Even then then GenRight setup bring the arms inboard of the frame and provide more clearance on the bottom of the axle tube than the Evo lever setup.

Black Pearl if you haven't purchased anything yet I would encourage you to call GenRight and speak to Andrew. They are offering 15% off for Black Friday which puts their kit including gas tank and skid plates very close price wise to the full Evo DTD.
 

Brute

Hooked
Brute they are now supporting the use of Dynatrac axles although it is limited to the XD60 front and 80 rear. I have been speaking with them at length trying to figure out if my PR60/60 setup is compatible. They recommend different width along with caster/pinion angles so I am working through that right now.

My rear lower arm frame mount constantly hits when I am trying to climb a ledge. I've spoken to Evo about running the high clearance arms they use with the cantilever setup and it's not recommended by them although many people have done it. Even then then GenRight setup bring the arms inboard of the frame and provide more clearance on the bottom of the axle tube than the Evo lever setup.

Black Pearl if you haven't purchased anything yet I would encourage you to call GenRight and speak to Andrew. They are offering 15% off for Black Friday which puts their kit including gas tank and skid plates very close price wise to the full Evo DTD.

I did talk to Tony P about it a couple years ago at EJS...he did apologize and wished they would have been more accommodating...funny thing was at last years EJS, he was running Terremoto right behind me with his new tire sponsor from Yokohama riding shotgun on Flat Iron Mesa...his tire sponsor told him that he thought my rig was his favorite rig at EJS...we both laughed at that...
 

RSQCON

Member
Well your rig is pretty unique even if you were running a Teraflex kit so I'm sure it had more to do with that than anything else.
 

black pearl

Hooked
I did read up on that kit a little bit and it does look great. I just can't get past moving the fuel cell. My garbage can muffler has taken a lot of hard hits, I'm just not sure about doing that to the tank.


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RSQCON

Member
That's why it comes with a skid plate. My factory fuel tank has taken many hits so why couldn't an aftermarket? It's the only way to get a double triangulated rear which is superior to a 4 link setup in many ways. As long as you've done your research and are happy thats what matter just want to make sure you know about all your options.
 

Brute

Hooked
I can understand the fuel cell issue...as well as having the weight of a full tank moved that far aft...for me, it wasn't an issue as I had already moved the tank (a Genright) into the bed...

I went with the EVO long arm bolt on for my Brute because of all the stull I would have had to move underneath for the EVO lever, otherwise I would have went with another DTD on Brute as well...
 

TrailHunter

Hooked
What happens if you break a rear arm on the trail with the Genright kit? Because I witnessed Moby break an arm and he drove off the trail no problem.
 

WJCO

Meme King
That's why it comes with a skid plate. My factory fuel tank has taken many hits so why couldn't an aftermarket? It's the only way to get a double triangulated rear which is superior to a 4 link setup in many ways. As long as you've done your research and are happy thats what matter just want to make sure you know about all your options.

Skid plate is definitely valid insurance. But still, that location takes harder hits (the rear always does (That's what she said)). Both mine and longarmwj's gas tanks have skids. They're bent up at least 4 inches in these pics. Sure it keeps the tank from puncturing, but still a horrible location IMO. Coming off a ledge dropping has more momentum than the side of the Jeep scraping similar to how a slider protects the Jeep.

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RSQCON

Member
What happens if you break a rear arm on the trail with the Genright kit? Because I witnessed Moby break an arm and he drove off the trail no problem.
Not sure what control arm he broke but as most of us would agree that is a very unusual circumstance. I would say that because the arms on the GenRight kit don't hang down as low as the GenRight setup that the likelihood of this happening is even less on the GenRight kit. With that said if you did break am arm you would be dear in the water. Same on a 3 link vs 4 but look at what most of the KOH rigs run...double triangulate. When I make the switch to the GenRight kit I will be running 2.5" OD 7075 aluminum links.
 

TrailHunter

Hooked
Not sure what control arm he broke but as most of us would agree that is a very unusual circumstance. I would say that because the arms on the GenRight kit don't hang down as low as the GenRight setup that the likelihood of this happening is even less on the GenRight kit. With that said if you did break am arm you would be dear in the water. Same on a 3 link vs 4 but look at what most of the KOH rigs run...double triangulate. When I make the switch to the GenRight kit I will be running 2.5" OD 7075 aluminum links.

I believe it was his lower rear... unbolted it and drove out.
 
Did I mention that GenRights kit includes an access panel to get to the fuel pump which makes servicing it much easier if the need ever arises.

I wouldn't pick a kit based on a 'what if something breaks' scenario.

You did feel inclined to mention a ‘what if something breaks’ scenario in your list of reasons why you would go with Genright. Just saying...
 
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