another possible drive line vibe question

[DWiggles]

I think you're supposed to take that measurement on the face where it bolts to the driveshaft, and not the outer circumference.

This.

That, or the yoke should be keyed/marked to line up with the driveline, and the driveline would be counterweighted for the rotational mass.. . Do you see any clicking Marks? It's been a while since I had a factory driveline. But I don't recall any evidence of clocking. Could be wrong though.

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DZZ Build thread

 

[desertrunner]

This.

That, or the yoke should be keyed/marked to line up with the driveline, and the driveline would be counterweighted for the rotational mass.. . Do you see any clicking Marks? It's been a while since I had a factory driveline. But I don't recall any evidence of clocking. Could be wrong though.

sent from SPACE!
DZZ Build thread

ill take a look, i thought i remember some yellow paint on there somewhere but i have swapped so many parts around recently that i may be thinking of something else.

 

[desertrunner]

well there is a big yellow paint blob on the driveshaft and a yellow line on the yoke, no idea if those were lined up when i took it out but ill line them up and put the shaft back in and see if that changes anything. I swear if that was the only thing that was causing the vibe im gonna be pissed i wasted so much time checking everything else HAHA :doh:

 

[desertrunner]

This.

That, or the yoke should be keyed/marked to line up with the driveline, and the driveline would be counterweighted for the rotational mass.. . Do you see any clicking Marks? It's been a while since I had a factory driveline. But I don't recall any evidence of clocking. Could be wrong though.

sent from SPACE!
DZZ Build thread

Well you may be on to something here, I lined up the drive shaft mark with the pinion yoke mark and the vibration has definitely reduced. I can still get a really slight tickle in the floor board but my mirrors aren't all fuzzy anymore and it's not until I get to 70 now that i can hear the audible sine wave vibration. There was a mark on the t-case yoke too and like an idiot I didn't think about that until after it was already installed and it's not in line with the other marks so I'm going to line it up on all 3 and see if it helps. It's not totally gone but absolutely a step in the right direction. AMD at least can buy me some more time with the stock shaft until I can save for a 1350 and rear uppers

 

[DWiggles]

Well you may be on to something here, I lined up the drive shaft mark with the pinion yoke mark and the vibration has definitely reduced. I can still get a really slight tickle in the floor board but my mirrors aren't all fuzzy anymore and it's not until I get to 70 now that i can hear the audible sine wave vibration. There was a mark on the t-case yoke too and like an idiot I didn't think about that until after it was already installed and it's not in line with the other marks so I'm going to line it up on all 3 and see if it helps. It's not totally gone but absolutely a step in the right direction. AMD at least can buy me some more time with the stock shaft until I can save for a 1350 and rear uppers

Nice, if there is paint, and its OE paint, it's definitely clocked! If I were a betting man, I would think clocking everything up SHOULD resolve your vibration issue entirely. :thumb:

 

[desertrunner]

Nice, if there is paint, and its OE paint, it's definitely clocked! If I were a betting man, I would think clocking everything up SHOULD resolve your vibration issue entirely. :thumb:

welp i lined up all three marks and it didnt make any difference, still getting the same vibes. I am also not running my stock T-case so the mark on it is kind irrelevant. I guess i could clock it on the pinion yoke a hole or two over and just keep test driving to see where its the least but that sounds annoying haha.

has anyone had their stock rear driveshaft balanced? the only place in town here said they didnt have the fittings to do a double CV joint shaft and they dont know of anyone in the state that can. I find that very hard to believe :asshat:

 

[DWiggles]

welp i lined up all three marks and it didnt make any difference, still getting the same vibes. I am also not running my stock T-case so the mark on it is kind irrelevant. I guess i could clock it on the pinion yoke a hole or two over and just keep test driving to see where its the least but that sounds annoying haha.

has anyone had their stock rear driveshaft balanced? the only place in town here said they didnt have the fittings to do a double CV joint shaft and they dont know of anyone in the state that can. I find that very hard to believe :asshat:

Maybe ask a dealer? call up the service center and ask them if/where they get the shafts balanced or if they can recommend something? :idontknow: worst case, it may be time to get that 1350 you've always wanted? sometimes things just "work out"

 

[desertrunner]

Maybe ask a dealer? call up the service center and ask them if/where they get the shafts balanced or if they can recommend something? :idontknow: worst case, it may be time to get that 1350 you've always wanted? sometimes things just "work out"

Yeah before I spend money on new yokes or working on getting the shaft balanced I feel like if I'm going to spend money I might as well just upgrade.

 

[desertrunner]

So I ended up buying a set of Currie rear uppers. Gonna make the rear pinion angle dead on and see if that changes anything. I doubt it will with the stock drive shaft but I'm curious more than anything. I honestly don't want to spend any money on stock parts as far as balancing or replacing yokes so I'm sure a 1350 is in my future and I needed the rear uppers for that anyway.

 

[-AINOKEA-]

Damn I just regeared to 4.88 as well and hit my 500 mile mark. Was kinda hoping it would work itself out during the break in but it didn’t.... I have the same exact issues at the same exact speeds. FML


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[DWiggles]

Damn I just regeared to 4.88 as well and hit my 500 mile mark. Was kinda hoping it would work itself out during the break in but it didn’t.... I have the same exact issues at the same exact speeds. FML


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Yours has already likely been solved since you didnt mention anything about an aftermarket t-Case and t-case yoke. so yours should be a quick fix! :thumb:

 

[Samuelh3]

havent re measured yet BUT while i was out i hit a few parts stores and no one could even find the right part in their computers, i managed to find a rear pinion yoke on rock auto for $34 but they are out of stock. i even caved in and went to the dealership but they wanted $161 for the damn thing!!!! F that i would rather buy a new aftermarket shaft. Anyone know where to find a stock rear pinion yoke? or have one laying around after an upgrade?

I may have one. I’ll check later this morning. Is it the same at the front? I know I still have that one.


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[desertrunner]

Damn I just regeared to 4.88 as well and hit my 500 mile mark. Was kinda hoping it would work itself out during the break in but it didn’t.... I have the same exact issues at the same exact speeds. FML


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Well I think next week I'm going to upgrade to a 1350 rear shaft I'll let you know if that fixes the issue.

I have read in many places online that the stock drive shafts aren't balanced for the rpms that they are spinning at when you upgrade to those bigger gears so even getting them re balanced doesn't always work unless the place that does it does a high speed balance.

 

[desertrunner]

I may have one. I’ll check later this morning. Is it the same at the front? I know I still have that one.


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The front and re pinion yokes are different. The rear pinion yoke is very similar to the transfer case yokes but still a little different. But I'm a big proponent of if im going to spend money I might as well upgrade so im going to buy a rear 1350 and see what it does so don't worry about looking for one for me, I appreciate the offer though.

 

[desertrunner]

Ok so I got the new Currie rear uppers installed and the pinion angle dead on straight. The vibration has significantly decreased. I now can only just barely feel it in the floor and seat at about 65. And honestly I'm probably the only one that would even notice it since now I am listening to every noise. The audible vibe doesn't come in until about 70. Still that same 1 second on 1 second off sine wave deep bass kinda noise and is the same up to about 80. But even then the audible vibe is about 50% as loud as it used to be.

I'm still toying with the idea of just going ahead and buying the 1350 rear shaft and seeing if that eliminates it completely or possibly stepping up in tire size a little sooner than I was planning since that would slow the drivetrain down a little. But for now it's a pretty decent ride at 65 and I'm much more comfortable driving it at that for a while. I just really don't want to end up blowing up a t case or pinion bearing because I failed to address the vibration.

If I do end up buying the new rear driveshaft and the vibe is still there then I think I eliminated everything possible other than the pinion and carrier bearings, which I really don't have the tools or the effort to pull the entire diff apart to check those.

 

[-AINOKEA-]

Ok so I got the new Currie rear uppers installed and the pinion angle dead on straight. The vibration has significantly decreased. I now can only just barely feel it in the floor and seat at about 65. And honestly I'm probably the only one that would even notice it since now I am listening to every noise. The audible vibe doesn't come in until about 70. Still that same 1 second on 1 second off sine wave deep bass kinda noise and is the same up to about 80. But even then the audible vibe is about 50% as loud as it used to be.

I'm still toying with the idea of just going ahead and buying the 1350 rear shaft and seeing if that eliminates it completely or possibly stepping up in tire size a little sooner than I was planning since that would slow the drivetrain down a little. But for now it's a pretty decent ride at 65 and I'm much more comfortable driving it at that for a while. I just really don't want to end up blowing up a t case or pinion bearing because I failed to address the vibration.

If I do end up buying the new rear driveshaft and the vibe is still there then I think I eliminated everything possible other than the pinion and carrier bearings, which I really don't have the tools or the effort to pull the entire diff apart to check those.

This is reassuring! I was waiting to see how the rear uppers worked out for you before I pull the trigger on mine. Shipping parts here is incredibly expensive. I think I’m going to order a rear 1350 at the same time as the front/rear UCAs just to help consolidate shipping costs. I will let you know if anything changes for me after I get those on.


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[desertrunner]

Ok well i pulled the rear driveshaft again mostly to measure for the 1350 but i took it for a test drive just to confirm what I felt last time I drove it with the rear pulled. And I'd say 90% of what i was feeling is gone. There is still a tiny slight vibe in the floor and maybe just barely audible vibe at 75. I really feel like I'm nit picking at this point and I'm sure I'm the only one that would even notice it. But I'm hoping by getting the new yokes and driveshaft will smooth everything out.

And if it doesn't well now I'll have a beefed up rear drive train to match the front and I'm really not upset by that Haha. Although I will say the ONLY reason I didn't do the 44/60 package was to avoid buying rear arms and driveshaft so now that I bought those I'm bummed I didn't just go ahead and buy the 44/60 pack from dynatrac and have no question on whether the rear was set up properly.... oh well such is life

 

[-AINOKEA-]

Alright so I finally got some time to turn some wrenches and pulled the front driveshaft (Adams solid 1350) and took it for a spin. All vibes are gone until about 55mph. But even when those vibes start, I can’t really feel it in my feet anymore but mostly in the seat and audible. I’ll reinstall and front and pull the rear when I get a little more time. I’m also wondering if the shop that did my gears separated the 2 sections of the front shaft and didn’t line the splines back up the way they were, thereby making it off balance...


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[BaddestCross]

Alright so I finally got some time to turn some wrenches and pulled the front driveshaft (Adams solid 1350) and took it for a spin. All vibes are gone until about 55mph. But even when those vibes start, I can’t really feel it in my feet anymore but mostly in the seat and audible. I’ll reinstall and front and pull the rear when I get a little more time. I’m also wondering if the shop that did my gears separated the 2 sections of the front shaft and didn’t line the splines back up the way they were, thereby making it off balance...


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The marks on the Adams shaft are hard to miss...

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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407

 

[-AINOKEA-]

The marks on the Adams shaft are hard to miss...

--
Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407

Did I miss something? I didn’t see any stamped marks on it or anything. Only the 2 weights on each section.


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