another possible drive line vibe question

BaddestCross said:
It's been awhile since I looked, but I'm fairly certain there are arrows stamped into the metal that should be lined up with each other.

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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
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Ok thanks. I’ll look again. If I can’t find anything I’ll call Adams tomorrow and see if they still mark it somehow. Worst case I’ll take it to a shop and have them check it. Either way with it pulled I still have vibes so I’ll keep working on it. Thanks again.

Edit: found it! There’s 2 punch marks on each end and they’re still lined up. When I looked before, they just so happened to be on the top and not obviously visible.

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Got my rear 1350 installed tonight and took it for a drive. Its definitely better but not 100% gone. Right now what im getting is right at 70 still the audible sin wave humm consistent to 80. It's very very faint though WAY less than it was when i started down this rabbit hole. I might try playing with the angles on both the front and the rear shafts and see if it makes any difference but for now I'm comfortable driving it at at least 65 for long distances. If adjusting the angles a little more doesn't help any I think I'm just going to live with it for the time being. With 4.88s and 33s maybe im just expecting too much to get it perfect.
 
desertrunner said:
Got my rear 1350 installed tonight and took it for a drive. Its definitely better but not 100% gone. Right now what im getting is right at 70 still the audible sin wave humm consistent to 80. It's very very faint though WAY less than it was when i started down this rabbit hole. I might try playing with the angles on both the front and the rear shafts and see if it makes any difference but for now I'm comfortable driving it at at least 65 for long distances. If adjusting the angles a little more doesn't help any I think I'm just going to live with it for the time being. With 4.88s and 33s maybe im just expecting too much to get it perfect.
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Lol. I have a slight vibe from about 75-80mph. I just use it as a reminder to slow down a little. 😎

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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
 
desertrunner said:
Got my rear 1350 installed tonight and took it for a drive. Its definitely better but not 100% gone. Right now what im getting is right at 70 still the audible sin wave humm consistent to 80. It's very very faint though WAY less than it was when i started down this rabbit hole. I might try playing with the angles on both the front and the rear shafts and see if it makes any difference but for now I'm comfortable driving it at at least 65 for long distances. If adjusting the angles a little more doesn't help any I think I'm just going to live with it for the time being. With 4.88s and 33s maybe im just expecting too much to get it perfect.
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Good to hear it’s a little better. I was just thinking about asking if you had an update on yours. I just ordered front and rear UCAs today. Hopefully it will help my situation. If not I’ll have to spring for a rear driveshaft as well. I just couldn’t drop another $800 for a driveshaft plus the control arms today. We hardly ever drive over 65 so if I can get mine tolerable below that speed I’ll be happy.


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BaddestCross said:
Lol. I have a slight vibe from about 75-80mph. I just use it as a reminder to slow down a little. 😎

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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
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All I want to do is drive 70 without feeling like I'm going to blow up my Tcase, the vibration is very very slight at this point and maybe im just not going to be able to completely get it to go away. And if I remember right your on 35s so yours is spinning a little slower than mine on 33s and maybe that's the 5mph difference. And maybe I'll just have to suck it up and drive 65
 
Correct me if I’m wrong but isn’t 4.88 a little tall for 33s? Maybe 35’s are in your future. Also when was the last time you had your wheels balanced? I just had mine done and the vibration is less evident.


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JMFK said:
Correct me if I’m wrong but isn’t 4.88 a little tall for 33s? Maybe 35’s are in your future. Also when was the last time you had your wheels balanced? I just had mine done and the vibration is less evident.


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Yeah 4.88s are a bit over geared for 33s but i have plans for 37s and didn't want to do it twice.
I haven't had them balanced since they were mounted but haven't payed them much attention since i didn't have the vibration before the regear
 
Quick question.... trying to make my driveshaft angles as perfect as possible and my front is 0.4* different than pinion and the rear is 0.6* different than pinion. I imagine that's about as perfect as I can get it but is it worth trying 1 more turn on the control arms to get it closer to 0?

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desertrunner said:
Quick question.... trying to make my driveshaft angles as perfect as possible and my front is 0.4* different than pinion and the rear is 0.6* different than pinion. I imagine that's about as perfect as I can get it but is it worth trying 1 more turn on the control arms to get it closer to 0?

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Plenty close enough. A little off actually helps the needle bearings stay lubricated.


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desertrunner said:
Quick question.... trying to make my driveshaft angles as perfect as possible and my front is 0.4* different than pinion and the rear is 0.6* different than pinion. I imagine that's about as perfect as I can get it but is it worth trying 1 more turn on the control arms to get it closer to 0?

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Yes, use this method:

download.jpg


Just kidding. Don't over think it. I think you'll be just fine.
 
WJCO said:
Yes, use this method:

View attachment 301366


Just kidding. Don't over think it. I think you'll be just fine.
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If I didn't still have a vibration I wouldn't touch them but I'm still trying to get it a little more smoothed out. Adjusted the rears another full turn and now both the front and rear are less than 0.5* different from the pinion. I'm calling it quits there. If nothing changes I'm just going to drive slower....

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desertrunner said:
If I didn't still have a vibration I wouldn't touch them but I'm still trying to get it a little more smoothed out. Adjusted the rears another full turn and now both the front and rear are less than 0.5* different from the pinion. I'm calling it quits there. If nothing changes I'm just going to drive slower....

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I actually got mine the smoothest by having the rear pinion pointing up about 1 degree further than straight in line. Maybe something to try.


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Speedy_RCW said:
I actually got mine the smoothest by having the rear pinion pointing up about 1 degree further than straight in line. Maybe something to try.


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I have new lug nuts coming on Wednesday so maybe when I take the rear tires off again to put thos in I'll give them another half turn out but I'm satisfied with the way it is now. Set 67 on the cruise control and don't feel anything so I'll take it. Its only when I get to 70 I can still get a very faint hum

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desertrunner said:
I have new lug nuts coming on Wednesday so maybe when I take the rear tires off again to put thos in I'll give them another half turn out but I'm satisfied with the way it is now. Set 67 on the cruise control and don't feel anything so I'll take it. Its only when I get to 70 I can still get a very faint hum

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Right on. So as I said before, you’ve been going through exactly what I experienced after my regear. Went through everything and never could find any thing wrong. In the end I played with pinion angles to get it to a minimum and then I installed one of the transfer case dampeners you’d find on older JK’s. That took care of what was left. Maybe give it a try. It was only like 75 bucks. My hypothesis is that some JK’s just experience a resonant frequency issue and there’s really nothing that can be done to remedy it. By playing with pinion angles you may find a sweet spot where the frequency amplitude is at a minimum. Let it ride there. I just did a 2000 mile round to trip to Moab running 80-85 a lot of the way and didn’t have an issue. I figure if my T-case was gonna blow up, it would have done it by now.
 
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Speedy_RCW said:
Right on. So as I said before, you’ve been going through exactly what I experienced after my regear. Went through everything and never could find any thing wrong. In the end I played with pinion angles to get it to a minimum and then I installed one of the transfer case dampeners you’d find on older JK’s. That took care of what was left. Maybe give it a try. It was only like 75 bucks. My hypothesis is that some JK’s just experience a resonant frequency issue and there’s really nothing that can be done to remedy it. By playing with pinion angles you may find a sweet spot where the frequency amplitude is at a minimum. Let it ride there. I just did a 2000 mile round to trip to Moab running 80-85 a lot of the way and didn’t have an issue. I figure if my T-case was gonna blow up, it would have done it by now.
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oh dang totally forgot that you mentioned that back in the beginning, and for 75 bucks it may be worth a try, hell i already dropped the coin on a 1350 rear driveshaft on a hunch haha. i have no reason to drive 85 on the highway but i wouldnt mind at least 70 without something in the back of my mind feeling like its not perfect. BUT considering the only thing that is stock in my entire drivetrain is the rear axle housing i am pretty damn pleased with its road manners and comfort.
 
Speedy_RCW said:
Right on. So as I said before, you’ve been going through exactly what I experienced after my regear. Went through everything and never could find any thing wrong. In the end I played with pinion angles to get it to a minimum and then I installed one of the transfer case dampeners you’d find on older JK’s. That took care of what was left. Maybe give it a try. It was only like 75 bucks. My hypothesis is that some JK’s just experience a resonant frequency issue and there’s really nothing that can be done to remedy it. By playing with pinion angles you may find a sweet spot where the frequency amplitude is at a minimum. Let it ride there. I just did a 2000 mile round to trip to Moab running 80-85 a lot of the way and didn’t have an issue. I figure if my T-case was gonna blow up, it would have done it by now.
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do you have a part number? my initial google searching isnt finding anything useful
 
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