Ball joints

VeruGE*144

VeruGE*144

Caught the Bug
jesse3638 said:
I have no experience rebuilding them, and while I don't doubt their quality, the price point for the ball joints and the rebuild kits was a bit higher than I cared to spend right now. Also I don't think I'd be able to tell the difference in new ball joints whether it be oem, synergy, or prosteers. Any new ball joint will be better over my worn ones...[emoji6]

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Dynatrac released a video on how to rebuild their ball joints about a month ago.
https://youtu.be/xL4axrsb1k4
 
jesse3638

jesse3638

Hooked
OverlanderJK said:
It’s easy to rebuild a brand new ball joint. How about ones with 80,000 miles?


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Additionally me being a numbers weirdo it would take the initial purchase of Dynatracs and 3 rebuild kits to break even on 5 sets of synergy or crown ball joints. At say 35k per replacement or rebuild that's 140k miles. With my annual mileage that's another 28-35 years...haha.



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BaddestCross

BaddestCross

Active Member
Seahawkfan said:
I notice on the lower joint has a regular zerk fitting. (Nipple type) Any concern of breaking that off? Could it be replaced by a needle type or flush. Or whatever they are called.
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It's angled and inside the C, not on the bottom. The worst part is actually getting the grease gun in there. I finally saw someone talk about using a needle point instead of the special "hard to reach" attachment that was recommended and it's perfect.

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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
 
jesse3638

jesse3638

Hooked
BaddestCross said:
It's angled and inside the C, not on the bottom. The worst part is actually getting the grease gun in there. I finally saw someone talk about using a needle point instead of the special "hard to reach" attachment that was recommended and it's perfect.

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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
Click to expand...
Yeah Bubba suggested to make sure it's facing forward so it's easy to access it. He also said it may hit the c and if so I could grind it out a bit. I know what you're talking about using a needle fitting on a regular zerk. I have to do that on the rear u-joint of my rear drive shaft. The regular fitting feels like it goes on bit not quite all the way. I ended up piling a ton of grease all over the joint because I couldn't see it..haha.

BTW what's a good interval to grease them? I do my oil changes every 4k miles would that be sufficient?

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BaddestCross

BaddestCross

Active Member
jesse3638 said:
Yeah Bubba suggested to make sure it's facing forward so it's easy to access it. He also said it may hit the c and if so I could grind it out a bit. I know what you're talking about using a needle fitting on a regular zerk. I have to do that on the rear u-joint of my rear drive shaft. The regular fitting feels like it goes on bit not quite all the way. I ended up piling a ton of grease all over the joint because I couldn't see it..haha.

BTW what's a good interval to grease them? I do my oil changes every 4k miles would that be sufficient?

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Every oil change should be fine



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Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
 
Seahawkfan

Seahawkfan

Hooked
BaddestCross said:
It's angled and inside the C, not on the bottom. The worst part is actually getting the grease gun in there. I finally saw someone talk about using a needle point instead of the special "hard to reach" attachment that was recommended and it's perfect.

--
Build Thread - Adventures of Fiona - https://wayalife.com/showthread.php?t=47407
Click to expand...

Thanks I think I'm going to go with these when it's time. Keep us up to date on how they hold up. :thumb:
 
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