Coilovers or ori's ?
- Thread starter CanadianJK72
- Start date
CanadianJK72
New member
Anyone know what kind of maintenance a coilover needs yearly ?
It's not the time that you need to be concerned with, it's the abusive miles you put them through. If you just daily drive your Jeep or even just rock crawl, they'll last a long time without needing a rebuild. However, if you do a lot of bombing through the desert, you will want to have them rebuilt as needed. For us, that's about once a year. Of course, for us, 1 year is about 30,000 miles.
Hot94Z28
New member
Damn you put some miles on yours I thought I was bad at 15,000 miles a year.
Hot94Z28
New member
LOL!! And we work from home
Holy crap I drive 30 minutes one way to work. But the Fiat sees more of that duty now days I keep the Jeep in the garage.
CanadianJK72
New member
Finally someone with some first hand experience with the coilover's , that makes sense the more abuse you put them through the more maintenance they will need , currently my daily driver until the swap out , if you don't mind me asking what's a ballpark range for a rebuild?
jango
Member
Im part of a local club here in GA and have asked the same questions to the owners of those rigs. I learned that ORIs should really be used only for trail rigs for crawling in general. I think i saw Evo DTD's mentioned in here as well. The only real reason to run DTD's is if you're doing 55+ in the desert for continuous hours. I talked to a guy here in GA who had them and thought they were badass but went a different route shortly because he just had no use for a prerunnner suspension in Georgia. I would say Coilovers for sure since it sounds like your rig is used on the streets too
just-lift-it
LOSER
Heres some food for thought, unless you buy dedicated system like the evo one where they come tuned to a jk consider this.
Coilovers:
You will be swapping coils to get your ride right
You will be valving them to get yoru ride right
You will need tools to do such work
You need limit straps at each corner
You need bump stop at each corner
There loud as the coil retainer slides up and down the shock body
In our climate (im close to toronto) yoru coilover will get corroded as shit this isnt california where all these lucky wayalife members are with no salt and sand and -25c temps
Need rebuilding like any top quality shock does when they start to leak or get sloppy same for all toys (dirtbikes sleds race atv)
The ride height is adjustable which is great the spring rate can be changed as your jeep evolves, there tunable and rebuildable
ORI's
not street legal
SUPER EASY to tune you have two chambers of nitrogen, charge the lower chamber to 100-200psi this sucks it down to full bumps then charge the upper chamber until you get desired ride hieght.. and by changing the two pressure you change how firm or soft the ride is but one works together with the other so you change both! thats all you need.
need to have a tank of nitgron from a welding store
need the charge kit
make ZERO noise
they can only support 5000lbs per strut of sprung weight no JKU weighs 20,000lbs so your fine
built in hydro bump
built in limit
ZERO push off or unload unline any suspension setup that utilizes a spring at rest a coilover laying on the ground is at full extension because of the spring, this greatly affect handling and vehicle dynamics, an ori only extends as it is pulled open by the weight of your axle or if your hands pull it open...
no need for sway bars again because there is no push off effect when you go into a corner and you have that spring pushing always and the weight transfers over it wants to unload so the sway bar counter acts it... doesnt happen with ori
if you blow an ori seal your rig drops to the bump stop, same as if you broke a coil and about just as likely to happen...
price wise:
Per corner - Coilover, limit strap, bump stop (in toronto about $1200-1400 taxes in)
Per corner - ORI, just an ori... (in toronto (700-900 taxes in)
for a DD rig in ontario I would go coil and shock i wouldnt get a coilover or an ori because it will get destroyed... just go talk to staangs fab or tmr customs, both have built and wheeled tons of rigs in ontario and will have first hand experience how fast they turn to crap.
the Evo plush coils with a good resi or bypass shock and hydro bump will drive like a dream and last a long time in our climate dealing with winter and all the mud on our trails.
My jku is currently getting ori's but it is only a toy and only drives to the trail and back... i just took out a EVO 4" lift and i loved it for a DD smothest jk i have rode in
hope this kinda helps... I have a ton of pics of jks on oris and coilovers if you want anymore
Coilovers:
You will be swapping coils to get your ride right
You will be valving them to get yoru ride right
You will need tools to do such work
You need limit straps at each corner
You need bump stop at each corner
There loud as the coil retainer slides up and down the shock body
In our climate (im close to toronto) yoru coilover will get corroded as shit this isnt california where all these lucky wayalife members are with no salt and sand and -25c temps
Need rebuilding like any top quality shock does when they start to leak or get sloppy same for all toys (dirtbikes sleds race atv)
The ride height is adjustable which is great the spring rate can be changed as your jeep evolves, there tunable and rebuildable
ORI's
not street legal
SUPER EASY to tune you have two chambers of nitrogen, charge the lower chamber to 100-200psi this sucks it down to full bumps then charge the upper chamber until you get desired ride hieght.. and by changing the two pressure you change how firm or soft the ride is but one works together with the other so you change both! thats all you need.
need to have a tank of nitgron from a welding store
need the charge kit
make ZERO noise
they can only support 5000lbs per strut of sprung weight no JKU weighs 20,000lbs so your fine
built in hydro bump
built in limit
ZERO push off or unload unline any suspension setup that utilizes a spring at rest a coilover laying on the ground is at full extension because of the spring, this greatly affect handling and vehicle dynamics, an ori only extends as it is pulled open by the weight of your axle or if your hands pull it open...
no need for sway bars again because there is no push off effect when you go into a corner and you have that spring pushing always and the weight transfers over it wants to unload so the sway bar counter acts it... doesnt happen with ori
if you blow an ori seal your rig drops to the bump stop, same as if you broke a coil and about just as likely to happen...
price wise:
Per corner - Coilover, limit strap, bump stop (in toronto about $1200-1400 taxes in)
Per corner - ORI, just an ori... (in toronto (700-900 taxes in)
for a DD rig in ontario I would go coil and shock i wouldnt get a coilover or an ori because it will get destroyed... just go talk to staangs fab or tmr customs, both have built and wheeled tons of rigs in ontario and will have first hand experience how fast they turn to crap.
the Evo plush coils with a good resi or bypass shock and hydro bump will drive like a dream and last a long time in our climate dealing with winter and all the mud on our trails.
My jku is currently getting ori's but it is only a toy and only drives to the trail and back... i just took out a EVO 4" lift and i loved it for a DD smothest jk i have rode in
hope this kinda helps... I have a ton of pics of jks on oris and coilovers if you want anymore
Back when we were still in SoCal and could just take our coil overs to King, I think it was something close to $100 a piece. Being that we're further away now, we'd have to account for shipping as well.
You remember their turn around time on them? I'm at 40k and starting to notice a difference. Not sure if it's time yet but if so I want to plan accordingly.
**nevermind just spoke to them and they are at about 4 weeks now. they said $120 per shock unless they find other things. $15 per baring and $65 for shafts. **
Last edited:
OverlanderJK
Resident Smartass
Mtg said two weeks rebuild time and a week shipping time I think. Just take your wife's coilovers and put them on your jeep while you wait.
Hahaha doesn't help me on the fronts :cheesy: I'll probably send them in after the wayalife moab trip.
David1tontj
New member
I didn't realize the article I had read was from 2006. I guess they must have gotten a LOT stronger!
Yep, that sounds about right. Well worth it though and being that you're at 40k, probably about time for it.
David1tontj
New member
I am truly asking this out of curiosity, because I was considering them for my jeep... Where are you finding this 5,000 pounds each? The most I could find on ori's site was 1900 each.
just-lift-it
LOSER
sorry i fawked up dont know what why i typed that haha the seals can handle 5000 lbs the strut can handle 1900 my bad! still who jku sprung weight is 7600lbs! My buddies V10 ford excursion on one tons and 44" boggers with fullsize spare and tools weighs 9700lbs I cant see a JKU every reaching 7600 ob sprung weight... you cant put the weight of axles and tires into it because thats unsprung weight... if you search around the web on other forums youll find many guys with good success with both coilover and ori they both have their place and both have pros and cons life is to short just build a jeep and wheel it! haha
CRAZYCASEY
New member
There is a lot of Misinformation about ORI struts. ORI struts are nothing like an air shock. There is an upper and lower chamber to charge and they are super easy to adjust and make changes, way easier than a coil over. They also have fluid in them. I will tell you that on a 5500# jk it takes a little more pressure to get them to work as intended and that will create a bit of a rough ride on the street. That doesn't keep me from driving mine on the street, I still love to drive it to work once in a while, but if I had a 30+ mile drive it might get old.I have them on my 4 door and love them. If I was going to drive my jeep to work everyday I would have gone coil overs for sure, but for rock crawling I prefer the ORIs.
olram30
Not That Kind of Engineer
Would you mind sharing some info? I would think the costs to have struts installed would be a little higher. Unless someone worked at a shop, what exactly goes into these? Labor cost, wider axles to outboard them? I'm curious on these.
just-lift-it
LOSER
You can mount them the same way as coilovers mount, a shop in toronto did a build last summer using synergy rear coilover mount and front artec weld in mount and just bolt them in same as you would a coil over then just adjust ride height, would be even less labour because you dont need to install limit straps and bump stop cans!
on my jeep im going to notch and outboard the rear oris and front will be same as everyones setup the put a bolt in the top and bolt in the bottom charge em up bam done