DRAG Link flip kit

[wayoflife]

I have recentered my axles with adjustable Trac bars. That and adjustable control arms have made a huge difference in handling on my jeep.

Re-centering your axle will have had NO effect in the way your Jeep handles. Your new adjustable front lower control arms can only be set at a minimum length of 23-1/16" and with the amount of lift you have, I would venture to guess that your caster is currently upwards of +5° or more (something I used to recommend). While that would have made a huge difference in the way your Jeep handles, it will effectively increase your chances of getting driveline vibrations and will lead to premature drive shaft joint failure. Just something you might want to be aware of.

 

[aaronstephen]

Re-centering your axle will have had NO effect in the way your Jeep handles. Your new adjustable front lower control arms can only be set at a minimum length of 23-1/16" and with the amount of lift you have, I would venture to guess that your caster is currently upwards of +5° or more (something I used to recommend). While that would have made a huge difference in the way your Jeep handles, it will effectively increase your chances of getting driveline vibrations and will lead to premature drive shaft joint failure. Just something you might want to be aware of.

My caster is right at 5*. I am currently saving to purchase a new front driveshaft. I've been going back and forth on Tom Woods or JE Reel...


Sent from my iPhone

 

[wayoflife]

My caster is right at 5*. I am currently saving to purchase a new front driveshaft.

Amazing how I would know that isn't it?

Like I said, I used to recommend 23" or even a bit more a back when the JK first came out because of how much it helps improve the way a lifted JK handles but now, only recommend it as a starting point. More times than not, I find that reducing that number to just under 23" is what is needed to still improve handling and keep your caster angle closer to stock (+4°) - that'll help keep driveline vibrations at bay and prolong the life of your shaft joints.

I've been going back and forth on Tom Woods or JE Reel...

So that you are aware, you are not experiencing driveline vibrations BECAUSE you are still running a factory front shaft which has an rzeppa CV joint at the t-case. Once you install an aftermarket double cardan u-joint style shaft as you should, proper caster angle will be critical in keeping vibrations at bay REGARDLESS of what brand shaft you choose to get. As far as shafts go, if you choose to get a Woods, make sure to upgrade the u-joints to Spicer or Neapco. I have seen a lot of problems with the Chinese joints he uses standard. JE Reel comes with made in the USA Neapco joints standard.

 

[aaronstephen]

Amazing how I would know that isn't it?

Like I said, I used to recommend 23" or even a bit more a back when the JK first came out because of how much it helps improve the way a lifted JK handles but now, only recommend it as a starting point. More times than not, I find that reducing that number to just under 23" is what is needed to still improve handling and keep your caster angle closer to stock (+4°) - that'll help keep driveline vibrations at bay and prolong the life of your shaft joints.



So that you are aware, you are not experiencing driveline vibrations BECAUSE you are still running a factory front shaft which has an rzeppa CV joint at the t-case. Once you install an aftermarket double cardan u-joint style shaft as you should, proper caster angle will be critical in keeping vibrations at bay REGARDLESS of what brand shaft you choose to get. As far as shafts go, if you choose to get a Woods, make sure to upgrade the u-joints to Spicer or Neapco. I have seen a lot of problems with the Chinese joints he uses standard. JE Reel comes with made in the USA Neapco joints standard.

So should I lengthen my upper ca's to get the caster back to 4*?




Sent from my iPhone

 

[wayoflife]

So should I lengthen my upper ca's to get the caster back to 4*?

Once you get your new drive shaft, I would definitely try. You should know that doing this will help correct your caster angle but your front axle will effectively be more forward than it was originally designed to be. Not really a big deal but, that will put the ends of your sway bar arm very close to the upper spring perches. More times than not, they will make contact with them. Also, doing so will cause your coils be misaligned a bit top to bottom. This isn't too big of a deal either but, your coils will bow and in some cases, enough to get caught up on your bump stop on the passenger side and make contact with your sway bar on the driver side. Ideally, if you have both adjustable upper and lower arms, you would want to use your lowers to re-position your axle under your Jeep to about the stock location and then use the uppers to set your caster. Unfortunately, with the arms you have, you will not be able to do this.

 

[rtguy1]

In all fairness, for the most part, you shouldn't even really notice a difference. Where you will notice it is in your handling and in sudden maneuvers due to it's improved roll center. Your steering geometry will essentially be like or be much closer to stock again and in my opinion, to have corrected geometry is worth every penny. Same can be said about long arms but, I'm sure some of the newer companies out there will tell you they're a waste of money too.

Lol...I do lots of sudden maneuvers these days:yup: I pretend I'm driving an M3 or something sometimes
I guess I should have said it is an improvement from my last suspension setup without the flip kit.:thumb: money well spent IMO

 

[wayoflife]

Lol...I do lots of sudden maneuvers these days:yup: I pretend I'm driving an M3 or something sometimes
I guess I should have said it is an improvement from my last suspension setup without the flip kit.:thumb: money well spent IMO

:cheesy: LOL!! Your Jeep is more of a glorified go-cart on steroids than anything :crazyeyes:

 

[rtguy1]

:cheesy: LOL!! Your Jeep is more of a glorified go-cart on steroids than anything :crazyeyes:

Lol. Thanks! I'm flattered:blush: it is fun as all hell. I've started my engine swap fund already. I need a couple hundred more horses. Won't be for a long time but it will happen.

 

[aaronstephen]

Once you get your new drive shaft, I would definitely try. You should know that doing this will help correct your caster angle but your front axle will effectively be more forward than it was originally designed to be. Not really a big deal but, that will put the ends of your sway bar arm very close to the upper spring perches. More times than not, they will make contact with them. Also, doing so will cause your coils be misaligned a bit top to bottom. This isn't too big of a deal either but, your coils will bow and in some cases, enough to get caught up on your bump stop on the passenger side and make contact with your sway bar on the driver side. Ideally, if you have both adjustable upper and lower arms, you would want to use your lowers to re-position your axle under your Jeep to about the stock location and then use the uppers to set your caster. Unfortunately, with the arms you have, you will not be able to do this.

I'm thinking I may be able to go a smidge shorter on my lowers. Right now I have them set right at 23"




Sent from my iPhone

 

[wayoflife]

Lol. Thanks! I'm flattered:blush: it is fun as all hell. I've started my engine swap fund already. I need a couple hundred more horses. Won't be for a long time but it will happen.

God save us all!! :crazyeyes:

I'm thinking I may be able to go a smidge shorter on my lowers. Right now I have them set right at 23"

Really? I have always seen these arms as being advertised with a minimum length of 23-1/16". I just looked on their website and have verified as much. Just because you can see threads on the joint doesn't mean that the tube it's in is threaded any deeper. But, if you really can set them less, doing so to get your caster angle back to about 4° is something I would recommend especially after you get your new front drive shaft.

 

[aaronstephen]

God save us all!! :crazyeyes:



Really? I have always seen these arms as being advertised with a minimum length of 23-1/16". I just looked on their website and have verified as much. Just because you can see threads on the joint doesn't mean that the tube it's in is threaded any deeper. But, if you really can set them less, doing so to get your caster angle back to about 4° is something I would recommend especially after you get your new front drive shaft.

What they do is ship them at those advertised measurements. So they preset them to what they suggest the length to be installed on their suspension system. I immediately shortened them to the 23" as to your suggestion.


Sent from my iPhone

 

[wayoflife]

What they do is ship them at those advertised measurements. So they preset them to what they suggest the length to be installed on their suspension system. I immediately shortened them to the 23" as to your suggestion.

Okay, I could see how someone new to the JK suspension market would think that would be a good length to set their arms too. For your purposes, I would recommend that you set your arms to a length that will give you +4° of caster. What that ultimate length is should be determined from that.

 

[aaronstephen]

Okay, I could see how someone new to the JK suspension market would think that would be a good length to set their arms too. For your purposes, I would recommend that you set your arms to a length that will give you +4° of caster. What that ultimate length is should be determined from that.

I'll wait to shorten the LCA's for when I get my new driveshaft as everything seems to run great right now.

Thx Eddie. Once again, I didn't mean any disrespect.


Sent from my iPhone

 

[wayoflife]

I'll wait to shorten the LCA's for when I get my new driveshaft as everything seems to run great right now.

Thx Eddie. Once again, I didn't mean any disrespect.


Sent from my iPhone

It's all good and I would definitely wait on your new shaft to address your caster.

 

[mrmet1983]

Love when people buy things hoping they fix a problem it's not designed to fix!! If ur having ride quality issues than u probably need more than a drag link flip (shocks control arms alignment.....) the flip kit is designed to recently your front axle that's really it. Keep in mind when you lift a vehicle all stock geometry is off most of spend lots of time and money trying to get it back to normal it's never a quick easy fix but people r here to help u so don't bash a product or company when you haven't done your research.

 

[Skirmish]

Except the draglink flip does not recenter your axle. It raises the draglink to match a raised trackbar.

 

[deezus]

Question, I have a RK Xfactor 3.5" mid arm, fox shocks with res, 2013 jkur. Will the EVO drag link kit work with my set up? Ty.

 

[Heholua]

Question, I have a RK Xfactor 3.5" mid arm, fox shocks with res, 2013 jkur. Will the EVO drag link kit work with my set up? Ty.

Yes it will, but you will need to go back to your factory track bar. The RK track bar will be a little long for the track bar bracket that comes with the kit.

 

[lizard pizza]

Great... Fantastic discussion. Could anyone on the thread give me a short ... well positioned sound bite that I can use to explain to my wife why our credit card bill has the extra jeep related $$$. All ears

Mods for the sake of mods. Good enough for me!!! It's a jeep after all... Right?!?!?

Sell my wife on the drag link flip kit and I am indebted for life. Or at least a beer.

 

[deezus]

Yes it will, but you will need to go back to your factory track bar. The RK track bar will be a little long for the track bar bracket that comes with the kit.

What if I get this bracket?

http://www.northridge4x4.com/rock-krawler-jk-front-track-bar-bracket-rk04481k?