Dynatrac pro grip brakes

[WJCO]

Could be, but I,ve replaced all the calipers with new ones....Last summer i had a brake line failure near the steering box, rubbed thru,,,,since then the brakes have been fubar...As with all my jeeps, brtween 100k -125k I replace all brake /fuel components...

I guess it could be possible the new line could be sucking air, but no where is it showing external leakage...the solus pro did require a bleed down on the rightside twice both frt and rear.... I've bled just about a full gal thru the system the old school way, then a reverse bleed, hcu bleed with the solus then back to a maual bleed.. I'll find it one way or the other....

Thanks for the input....

I would spray soapy water on one connection at a time and have someone stand on the brakes and try to find the leak. Tricky thing is that you don't want ANY water to get in the brake system, so if you are sucking air somewhere, you don't want the soapy water solution getting in there.

If you are at a stop with your foot on the pedal for a long period of time, does the pedal slowly fade down.

 

[2nd.gunman]

Could be, but I,ve replaced all the calipers with new ones....Last summer i had a brake line failure near the steering box, rubbed thru,,,,since then the brakes have been fubar...As with all my jeeps, brtween 100k -125k I replace all brake /fuel components...

I guess it could be possible the new line could be sucking air, but no where is it showing external leakage...the solus pro did require a bleed down on the rightside twice both frt and rear.... I've bled just about a full gal thru the system the old school way, then a reverse bleed, hcu bleed with the solus then back to a maual bleed.. I'll find it one way or the other....

Thanks for the input....

I'd bleed everything individually starting at the master cylinder then HCU then work through the calipers. Where did the replacement line come from for the one that rubbed through?


When you say you replaced everything, Have you replaced the master cylinder?

 

[wayoflife]

Could be, but I,ve replaced all the calipers with new ones....Last summer i had a brake line failure near the steering box, rubbed thru,,,,since then the brakes have been fubar...As with all my jeeps, brtween 100k -125k I replace all brake /fuel components...

I guess it could be possible the new line could be sucking air, but no where is it showing external leakage...the solus pro did require a bleed down on the rightside twice both frt and rear.... I've bled just about a full gal thru the system the old school way, then a reverse bleed, hcu bleed with the solus then back to a maual bleed.. I'll find it one way or the other....

Thanks for the input....

You need to take your Jeep to your dealership or a shop with a scan tool and have them ABS bleed the system. Essentially, they will have your Jeeps computer use the ABS system to power bleed it.

 

[IgotaWoody39]

I'd bleed everything individually starting at the master cylinder then HCU then work through the calipers. Where did the replacement line come from for the one that rubbed through?


When you say you replaced everything, Have you replaced the master cylinder?

WJCO, yes down to damn nesr the floor....
2nd gunman, yes I did...the replacement line was a mopar line,,,across the frt to the frt right caliper...I replaced the MC with teraflexs unit...
EDDIE, I did a hcu bleed down using a solus pro, and then a manual bleed as is required after the hcu bleed....gonna spend some quality time on it this weekend,,,,I'll find it, one way or the other...

Thanks all for taking time for the replies...

 

[WJCO]

WJCO, yes down to damn near the floor....

Then you definitely have air in the system, an external leak, or an internal leak (possibly master cylinder bypassing internally).

 

[IgotaWoody39]

After a long summer of the jeep sitting I put forth the doe for the pro grips,,,,I've gotten the frts on with new Powerstop calipers...I have still to do the rears, but just with the frts, wow, what a difference,,,I can confidently drive the jeep again,,,

 

[wjtstudios]

How often has anyone had to replace the brake pads on the Pro Grips. I have less than 11k on them and my rear pads were shot and that's with a lot of highway driving! Fronts have a little life left. Is this wear normal? I'm running 37 BFG muds on Hutchensons with an automatic.

 

[cozdude]

How often has anyone had to replace the brake pads on the Pro Grips. I have less than 11k on them and my rear pads were shot and that's with a lot of highway driving! Fronts have a little life left. Is this wear normal? I'm running 37 BFG muds on Hutchensons with an automatic.

I got maybe close to 10k on mine and have tons of meat left. If yours are shot already you must be either doing a lot of panic type stops or something is up with your brakes to cause them to maybe drag and wear the pads down faster

 

[Ddays]

Yea like Steve said, somethings up if the rears are worn already. Mine have 20-25k on them and they are still over half left. How much left on the fronts?

 

[wjtstudios]

I got maybe close to 10k on mine and have tons of meat left. If yours are shot already you must be either doing a lot of panic type stops or something is up with your brakes to cause them to maybe drag and wear the pads down faster

Something got to be wrong, what adjustments are there?


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[wjtstudios]

Yea like Steve said, somethings up if the rears are worn already. Mine have 20-25k on them and they are still over half left. How much left on the fronts?

Fronts are over half. I don't have a spare set to compare them to but judging off the new rear pads, they are right where the should be.


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[cozdude]

Something got to be wrong, what adjustments are there?


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Fronts are over half. I don't have a spare set to compare them to but judging off the new rear pads, they are right where the should be.


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Your caliper slides and pad slides could be dry causing them to drag and stick is the main thing. Also your caliper could be stuck

Do you have pics of the old pads you can show me? I would like to see how they wore as to if it was even or if they wore on one side more than the other

 

[wjtstudios]

Your caliper slides and pad slides could be dry causing them to drag and stick is the main thing. Also your caliper could be stuck

Do you have pics of the old pads you can show me? I would like to see how they wore as to if it was even or if they wore on one side more than the other

Drivers side top, passenger bottom.





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[wjtstudios]

The wear on the drivers side was even, the passenger side had a bit of a tapper to it.

I cleaned everything throughly today, lubed it and installed the new pads. They were full of brake dust. every time I washed it, the water would be black running out of the wheels from the brakes.


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[wjtstudios]

Your caliper slides and pad slides could be dry causing them to drag and stick is the main thing. Also your caliper could be stuck

Do you have pics of the old pads you can show me? I would like to see how they wore as to if it was even or if they wore on one side more than the other

Posted a bunch of pictures up. They were bone dry. I don't know how much of a factor it is/was, but I replaced by rear axle shafts twice in that 11k too. The dirt roads in Michigan are relentless. Thank goodness for revolution's warranty!


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[WJCO]

Pump the brakes a few times, then jack up the rear wheels, turn them by hand and see if anything is binding or dragging. Those rear pads look really thin. This is a hydraulic system and there are no adjustments. Also, have you replaced the brake booster or master cylinder anytime recently?

 

[wjtstudios]

Pump the brakes a few times, then jack up the rear wheels, turn them by hand and see if anything is binding or dragging. Those rear pads look really thin. This is a hydraulic system and there are no adjustments. Also, have you replaced the brake booster or master cylinder anytime recently?

No, nothing was replaced, just the pro grip upgrade in August last year. After I replaced the pads and broke them in yesterday, I put it back up and it appears to turn fine. The only thing that I can figure was driving on the bent flanges for a number of weeks prior to replacement tapered the pads causing them to wear extremely fast. I'll keep watching it for the next few months and see what happens. It has a fresh set of revolution shafts in it, so it should be a fresh start. Thanks for the help!


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[DWiggles]

Pump the brakes a few times, then jack up the rear wheels, turn them by hand and see if anything is binding or dragging. Those rear pads look really thin. This is a hydraulic system and there are no adjustments. Also, have you replaced the brake booster or master cylinder anytime recently?

^ do this

does traction control interfere with your driving regularly? especially being the rear pads... this could be because traction control is activating if your spinning your tires often

 

[wjtstudios]

^ do this

does traction control interfere with your driving regularly? especially being the rear pads... this could be because traction control is activating if your spinning your tires often

Traction control rarely ever engaged, only when it should on wet roads or loose gravel. Never under normal driving. The brakes never felt abnormally warm and are always consistent with the front. I keep coming back to the bent flanges. That's the only thing that was abnormal.


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[jeeeep]

I've found the rear passenger tends to wear sooner than all the others, don't know why but it does.

my OEM inner rear pad wore completely down to the rivets while the outer had more than half left.

The ProGrip pads wore the same way except I checked as soon as I heard the squeal so they didn't get to the rivets, close though.

I replaced all wheels - looked very similar to the wear in the pic.