Dynatrac vs G2 vs Terflex axles

[wayoflife]

Fairly certain, here.
One of my sales reps got a set (JK application, no brackets) for a Commando project and he was telling me that the TransAmerica guys told him made in the USA.
That being said, I am not 100% surelikeI am on my Dynatracs.

It is tough to say and unless I get a chance to physically walk through their plant and see with my own eyes that they're made in the USA like I have with Dynatrac and Rancho, it'd be hard for me to say for sure. Two years ago, I was at SEMA talking to them about this and was shown a one of their gold shafts and it did have Foote stamped on it - of course, I have physically seen axles being forged at Foote and know 100% that they are made here in the USA.... but then, I went over to another display and, took a look at another gold shaft and saw nothing. This year at SEMA, everything had Foote on it.

 

[DynoMax Exhaust]

Yea, my guy saw them installing it in the city of Compton (sing that in a Dr. Dre/Tupac voice) but didn't mention WHERE the stuff was sourced.
:beer:

(Again for people confused I am Rancho too, one computer is logged in as DynoMax and is a little faster than the Rancho one, so when I hear a bing I answer it from the computer I hear it from)

It is tough to say and unless I get a chance to physically walk through their plant and see with my own eyes that they're made in the USA like I have with Dynatrac and Rancho, it'd be hard for me to say for sure. Two years ago, I was at SEMA talking to them about this and was shown a one of their gold shafts and it did have Foote stamped on it - of course, I have physically seen axles being forged at Foote and know 100% that they are made here in the USA.... but then, I went over to another display and, took a look at another gold shaft and saw nothing. This year at SEMA, everything had Foote on it.

 

[Tanner505]

I don't trust anything transamerican says lol

 

[DynoMax Exhaust]

:shock:

And all the smiles I can use.

I don't trust anything transamerican says lol

 

[rinkishjk]

:shock:

And all the smiles I can use.

Watched Colorado jkx this weekend again with friends .... Forgot how funny your karaoke was!!! :thumbup:

 

[Rancho]

It is pretty ridiculous... great time, that's for sure.

Watched Colorado jkx this weekend again with friends .... Forgot how funny your karaoke was!!! :thumbup:

 

[Dean454]

http://youtu.be/OSeiKAYneLQ. I have a core 44. Someone thought they may be made in Japan

 

[GCM 2]

It is pretty ridiculous... great time, that's for sure.

Like a Cowboy, on a steel horse you ride......

 

[MonkeyLeo13]

You're right, it really is and I can't really say it'd be worth getting just to run 38's. This is of course coming from a guy who runs a JK with 40's and a ProRock 60 up front and a ProRock 80 in the rear AND who also has a JK running 37's with a ProRock 44 up front and ProRock 60 full floater in the rear. For the most part, 37's are all that you really need and there are a lot of benefits to running a ProRock 44 such as it being lighter weight, provides more ground clearance and has much greater turning radius over a 60.

I never knew that ProRock 44 has greater turning radius over 60 but I wonder what abt new ProRock XD60? Probably too early to say since it not release yet?

 

[wayoflife]

I never knew that ProRock 44 has greater turning radius over 60 but I wonder what abt new ProRock XD60? Probably too early to say since it not release yet?

The knuckles on a ProRock 60 are a lot bigger. The new XD60 has better turning but you're still going to see the most out of a PR44.

 

[MonkeyLeo13]

Thank you! Sometimes I wonder if they're sort of going to replace tht 44/60 hybrid for a little bit better and better name that's for sure.

 

[mastrcruse]

So what's the reasons to go witha PR60 vs a PR44 up front? I have the "go big or go home" complex but, like most, my wallet doesn't follow. I want to comfortably run 37's and not having to worry about grenading on the trail. I need to do the front first because I have a sport. If I bought a PR60 I wouldn't be able to run it until I got the rear (right?) because I would have 2 spares with me.

If I went with a PR44 with either 4.88 or 5.13's, RCVs, dynatrac ball joints, and arb lockers--what is my weak point? Where do I want my weak point to be when on a trail?

If I ran a PR44, full float 60 rear, and 37's would I be wishing I went with 40's and 60's? I'd run the rear 44 until it exploded. My main goal is to apply for JKX one year and feel comfortable about not having inferior equipment and be "that guy" on trails with the "bigger" boys.

Upon further research...it doesn't look like I could do a full float at stock width. So again, it looks like I'd have to redo major pieces of the puzzle (front) to run a pr44 and a full float rear. It almost has to be a pr60 up front to run a full float rear. Am I confused?

 

[MICP3309]

Hey guys, I have my PR44 front coming, and need to decide on the rear now. Can you all help with what is the difference between the Trail60 and Pro60? (I have a 2013 JKUR on 37s) I just can not seem to find the true differences besides the cost and the shape of the diff housing. Thanx!

 

[Benito]

Hey guys, I have my PR44 front coming, and need to decide on the rear now. Can you all help with what is the difference between the Trail60 and Pro60? (I have a 2013 JKUR on 37s) I just can not seem to find the true differences besides the cost and the shape of the diff housing. Thanx!

I think the trail 60 is a semi float only and is standard JK width. the pr60 can be configured as either full or semi float and is ~3" wider.

 

[wayoflife]

So what's the reasons to go witha PR60 vs a PR44 up front? I have the "go big or go home" complex but, like most, my wallet doesn't follow. I want to comfortably run 37's and not having to worry about grenading on the trail. I need to do the front first because I have a sport.

You can comfortably run 37's with a PR44.

If I bought a PR60 I wouldn't be able to run it until I got the rear (right?) because I would have 2 spares with me.

This is not correct. You can run wheel adapters in the rear so that you can run the same wheels front and back. Your factory rear axle will be on the narrow side anyway and the adapters will help make your stance be similar to up front too. I have run this set up in the past.

If I went with a PR44 with either 4.88 or 5.13's, RCVs, dynatrac ball joints, and arb lockers--what is my weak point? Where do I want my weak point to be when on a trail?

With 37's, you'd want to run 5.13's. With this setup, your weak point will still be your ring and pinion. If you're looking for a weak point, I would put them on the axle shafts and just run a standard set of chromoly with full circle clips rather than RCV's. RCVs have super strong joints and they will just put your break inside your axle which really sucks.

If I ran a PR44, full float 60 rear, and 37's would I be wishing I went with 40's and 60's? I'd run the rear 44 until it exploded. My main goal is to apply for JKX one year and feel comfortable about not having inferior equipment and be "that guy" on trails with the "bigger" boys.

If you're wanting to run 40's someday, you definitely want a PR60 up front. 37's a great tire size to run and that's what I have on my dozer JK now. But, if you go on the JKX, you will find that most of the guys are running 40's and you'll most likely have tire envy.

 

[wayoflife]

Hey guys, I have my PR44 front coming, and need to decide on the rear now. Can you all help with what is the difference between the Trail60 and Pro60? (I have a 2013 JKUR on 37s) I just can not seem to find the true differences besides the cost and the shape of the diff housing. Thanx!

The Trail 60 can be had in a factory width and with a 5x5 bolt patter just like stock. The Trail 60 will have a standard differential instead of a high clearance one like the PR60 and it will have axle tubes that are a bit thinner. Of course, you can have a Trail 60 custom made to the point where it is essentially a PR60.

Among other things, a ProRock 60 will come with thicker tubes, a proprietary high clearance differential, bigger brakes and can be had in a full-float configuration. You can only get these in a 5x5.5 or 8 lug bolt pattern and only in a full-width length. If you go this route, you will need to run wheel adapters on your front axle and new wheels.

 

[13_gecko_rubi]

A great in between option is to get the trail 60 and just add the prorock housing. I think it was a 350-400 upgrade when I did it last yr. You then get the high clearance of the pr60. Considering it also comes with the HD pr60 diff cover vs a standard stamped d60 cover its a pretty reasonable upgrade. My friend and I both got ours that way knowing with what we do a full blown pr60 was overkill for us.

 

[Dean454]

Just for info purposes I just added a core 44 front axle, 4:88, elocker, chromoly shafts and synergy ball joints for $4300. I already have the big break kit

 

[MICP3309]

Thanks Eddie, and guys. I knew there had to be a difference and was afraid id order the wrong one. Also wanted to have a base of info before I called Dynatrac. Thanks again!:thumb:

 

[blackops]

I would also recommend dynatrac. I had the tera crd 60 in the front of my TJ and while it was one of my favorite mods it wasn't witout issues. The coil springs would not fit on the "perches" with the bumpstops installed without modification. The brake pads weren't centered on the discs and they had about an eighth of an inch overhang where the pad didn't contact the disc. Also, even though I ordered it for their 6 inch lift it barely aligned within acceptable range between the pinion angle and caster angle. Now all of these were small issues but I think show some lack of attention to detail.
The pr44 I just installed on our jk however fit perfect except for the off road evolutoon trackbar bracket, hardly dynatrac's fault as this was due to the larger axle tube.