For those of you running this lift, curious how much your front axle shifted with the lift, and what the castor and toe in ended up being before making necessary corrections.
Thx!
Caster can be corrected with either control arm drop brackets or adjustable arms
I just installed my 4in Enforcer and with the stock non adjustable track-bar the front axle has shifted left quite a bit. With the raised track bar bracket I'm having welded on tomorrow it should shift the Axle right again close to stock.For those of you running this lift, curious how much your front axle shifted with the lift, and what the castor and toe in ended up being before making necessary corrections.
Thx!
Correct but, I would not recommend drop brackets. Adjustable control arms (which come with the Enforcer kit) are a much better solution and one that won't lower a point that gets hit all the time. :yup:
As mentioned, toe will NOT change with the installation of a lift. Unlike the TJ before which had a tie rod connected to the drag link, the JK steering system was designed with a tie rod that is connected to the knuckles and independent of the drag link. As far as axle shift goes, you will see enough of one that a drag link flip/track bar relocation bracket will benefit your handling and correct your shift.
Curious why Evo wouldn't include the drag link flip as part of the lift kit?
You are stuck having do the corrections to the front steering and track bar angles so it should be part of the basic Enforcer.
The Currie kit is more money yet more complete. At the end of the day I've had to spend
Shocks basically $500 (Cheap Rancho 9000)
Raised Front Track Bar Bracket $125 (Synergy MFG)
Currie Currectlync Steering kit with flipped option $600
Welding or Front, Rear track bar Brackets and C-Gussets $300
On required shocks and required steering and track bar relocation
That alone is $1225 added to the price of the kit so It to me is basically a $2500 to $2600 kit before welding, a front drive shaft, spacers
and thats if you do the work your self. Yes you can cut the fat with getting the EVO flip kit then its sill about a $2200 to $2300 kit before
welding, installation, alignment. It's business plant the seed and get them on the hook for more:brows:
PHX
Appreciate all the information! Question, it's my understanding the stock front drive shaft can continue to be used, why does Evo recommend changing it? I'm about to pull the trigger on the Enforcer 3" lift and just trying to get all my proverbial ducks in a row so I have everything I need once I start the install.
Thx!
Appreciate all the information! Question, it's my understanding the stock front drive shaft can continue to be used, why does Evo recommend changing it? I'm about to pull the trigger on the Enforcer 3" lift and just trying to get all my proverbial ducks in a row so I have everything I need once I start the install.
Thx!
Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Depending if you are going to 37's you need a double jointed 1310 or 1350. I went with the Adams 1310Appreciate all the information! Question, it's my understanding the stock front drive shaft can continue to be used, why does Evo recommend changing it? I'm about to pull the trigger on the Enforcer 3" lift and just trying to get all my proverbial ducks in a row so I have everything I need once I start the install.
Thx!
Sent from my iPhone using WAYALIFE mobile app
Depending if you are going to 37's you need a double jointed 1310 or 1350. I went with the Adams 1310
I doubt I will go to 37s I'm starting to see 35's as the Sweet Spot. I Debated 3 in or 4 and I'm Glad I went 4in
because you still have to correct the Steering and get a drive shaft up front anyway. Every One thinks my lift looks Spot
on.
PHX
1000%Correct but, I would not recommend drop brackets. Adjustable control arms (which come with the Enforcer kit) are a much better solution and one that won't lower a point that gets hit all the time. :yup:
While a 1310 will work, the one u-joint that exists on a factory front drive shaft is a 1330. As in, it is STRONGER than a 1310. On a TJ, they are fine but on a JK, I personally would NOT recommend a 1310 and based on experience in seeing them fail. I have NEVER had or seen any of the 1350's I've run rub on trans linkage. Of course, that's just me.
The Nissan Titan has 1350's on the rear and I've seen them 4 in lift and 200k odo trouble free (I'm a master Nissan tech)
My 4wd shop talked me into ordering the 1310 over the 1350 citing it being the one the one he's had the best luck with in rigs like mine
application and rubbing issues. He Also Sold Me the Nitto Trail Grapplers over the Coopers I wanted. I must admit the Grapplers look and ride Awesome
Still Like the Coopers and the Jeep guys are Clamoring Over them. The woods web site talks about 1310 being better for the more mild rigs with v6s and 35 vs the V8 powered 40in rigs running 60's
My opinion well I decided to take an Experienced Jeep builders advice and save the $300 and go 1310 spicer solid on my Rubicon. If I have a problem I will go JE Reel and go 1350 next time. For even money I like the Idea of the 1350's dude I can sort out some minor rubbing. I'm gonna chalk it it as the $300 savings made the 1310s look good more than anything. Mt Sweetheart is starting to raise her eyebrows and the
money I've spent on a vehicle I've had for a month.
PHX:beer::beer::beer: