Evo 3 inch lift opinions?

Benito

Benito

Caught the Bug
Mike_JK_Houston_711 said:
I have EVO bolt ons. They’re definitely noisy. I put agm sliders on the rear to silence them a little bit, but they still make more noise than your shock and spring set ups. That said, i kind of like the noise. Reminds you that your Jeep is working hard for ya.
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Where yours noisy from the getgo? When i did the install it says to rotate the springs 180* from each other at the slider and that’s the way mine currently are and they don’t seem to make very much noise (yet)
 
Clutch

Clutch

Caught the Bug
VMSHack said:
I am curious, this may be a silly question, but with that set up what it the height from door to ground? I am getting up in age and slight back problems. Want to know if a 3 inch will be too high with 35’s.
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You’ll definitely want some grab handles. I have 2” budget boost and 35s, young and fit. I use grab handles and depending on how much stuff is in my pockets it can be a touch challenging.


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Mike_JK_Houston_711

Mike_JK_Houston_711

New member
Benito said:
Where yours noisy from the getgo? When i did the install it says to rotate the springs 180* from each other at the slider and that’s the way mine currently are and they don’t seem to make very much noise (yet)
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Yea they were noisy right out of the gate. I never tried rotating the springs though. You’re saying to rotate the top and bottom rate springs away from each other 180 degrees?


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Skeeterbait

Skeeterbait

New member
VMSHack said:
I am curious, this may be a silly question, but with that set up what it the height from door to ground? I am getting up in age and slight back problems. Want to know if a 3 inch will be too high with 35’s.
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Ground to bottom of door is 28 inches for me.
 
Benito

Benito

Caught the Bug
Mike_JK_Houston_711 said:
Yea they were noisy right out of the gate. I never tried rotating the springs though. You’re saying to rotate the top and bottom rate springs away from each other 180 degrees?
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Have the tail ends of the coils sit 180 from each other on the slider, on mine the King stamp on the coils lined up

IMG_4695.jpg

The tail end of the bottom spring is circled in red and the tail end of the top spring is on the opposite side
 
MericaMade

MericaMade

Active Member
Well all your guys help paid off. I just purchased the EVO Enforcer 3 inch Stage 2 drag link flip kit, 35 BFG KM2 to mount on stock rims, with the 1.5 inch Spridertrax spacers. I am waiting on a quote for the King 2.5 front and rear shocks.

Is there anything specific I need to buy or mod for the king shocks to mount, or will they bolt right up?

I am doing some research now on drive shaft but wanted to know if they sell a standard length drive shaft for a 3 inch lift or will I need to measure to get the correct length?

Any tips or ticks would be great.
 
DWiggles

DWiggles

Caught the Bug
MericaMade said:
Well all your guys help paid off. I just purchased the EVO Enforcer 3 inch Stage 2 drag link flip kit, 35 BFG KM2 to mount on stock rims, with the 1.5 inch Spridertrax spacers. I am waiting on a quote for the King 2.5 front and rear shocks.

Is there anything specific I need to buy or mod for the king shocks to mount, or will they bolt right up?

I am doing some research now on drive shaft but wanted to know if they sell a standard length drive shaft for a 3 inch lift or will I need to measure to get the correct length?

Any tips or ticks would be great.
Click to expand...

Shock Relocation brackets, to pull the bodies of the shocks further from the frame since you are going with 2.5s Evo should have them. They may come with the shocks if you are ordering Evo Spec Kings.

you will probably need to rig up some way to keep the shock bodies from rotating. I dont have 2.5s so I cant really comment on how, but I know guys around here were having issues with the upper shock body rotating causing the reservoir to rub the tire when turning & flex. Something as simple as a ziptie works IIRC

If your factory axle is still on the jeep, standard drive shafts will work. The general consensus is either coast of J.E. REEL Drivelines are good.

For the control arms, Do them last. put your jack under the pinion before dropping the lower control arms, then set your pinion angle/caster using the jack, Line up your new adjustable control arms. Should be smooth sailing after that, just make sure you check the toe and recenter the steering wheel. :thumb:
 
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MericaMade

MericaMade

Active Member
DWiggles said:
Shock Relocation brackets, to pull the bodies of the shocks further from the frame since you are going with 2.5s Evo should have them. They may come with the shocks if you are ordering Evo Spec Kings.

you will probably need to rig up some way to keep the shock bodies from rotating. I dont have 2.5s so I cant really comment on how, but I know guys around here were having issues with the upper shock body rotating causing the reservoir to rub the tire when turning & flex. Something as simple as a ziptie works IIRC

If your factory axle is still on the jeep, standard drive shafts will work. The general consensus is either coast of J.E. REEL Drivelines are good.

For the control arms, Do them last. put your jack under the pinion before dropping the lower control arms, then set your pinion angle/caster using the jack, Line up your new adjustable control arms. Should be smooth sailing after that, just make sure you check the toe and recenter the steering wheel. :thumb:
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Awesome, thank you for all that. This is a big help.!!!
 
V

VMSHack

New member
Skeeterbait said:
Ground to bottom of door is 28 inches for me.
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Thanks I just got around to measuring mine and it measures about 24, I do light off-roading with the wife so I may look into a step instead of my stock rock rails. I really like the looks of the 3 inch with 35’s. Anything funny with the install on a Rubicon, with the e-disconnects?

Thanks again for the help, most everyone on here seems extremely helpful [emoji16]


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V

VMSHack

New member
Ok sorry for the newb type questions, I had a 2007 with a 4 inch skyjacker ( sorry I was new to jeep) my rear drive shaft boot started ripping so had to replace it. On the evo 3 inch it says drive shafts recommended. I’ve seen on here and other places you just need the front. My question is, is that something I will need to plan for on a 3 inch? If so, which one, or is it both?

Thanks in advance [emoji16]


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Skeeterbait

Skeeterbait

New member
VMSHack said:
Ok sorry for the newb type questions, I had a 2007 with a 4 inch skyjacker ( sorry I was new to jeep) my rear drive shaft boot started ripping so had to replace it. On the evo 3 inch it says drive shafts recommended. I’ve seen on here and other places you just need the front. My question is, is that something I will need to plan for on a 3 inch? If so, which one, or is it both?

Thanks in advance [emoji16]


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Click to expand...

The install is rather straight forward.
You should change your front driveshaft. The boot will eventually rip, puke its grease everywhere and then fail.

The instructions for the lift covers most of the install. On Eddies Project-JK site there are write ups for setting up control arms, installing extended brake lines and a list of all the torque specs.

Nothing special on the sway links. You install new ones on the rear with the lift and take the old ones off the rear and put them on the front.

-I did the work by myself over two weekends. Wheels, brakes and fenders one weekend and the lift over a 4 day weekend. But that was not a sunrise to sunset effort.
-PB blaster all the nuts and bolts on the jeep the day before.
-Make sure you have jackstands tall enough to hold the frame up with the suspension drooped.
-Jackstands to hold the axle as you work on it.
-EVO draglink flip? 13/16" drill bit. Dont forget, was hard to find in my area. My wife brought back a 3/16" when I asked her o grab one.
-Torque wrench(s) to hit all your numbers.
-Paint pen to mark all you bolts when you put it back together. Also helps to keep track of what has been torqued back.
-The instructions make it seem like you torque the suspension bolts when it is drooped, it should be done at ride height.
 
V

VMSHack

New member
Skeeterbait said:
The install is rather straight forward.
You should change your front driveshaft. The boot will eventually rip, puke its grease everywhere and then fail.

The instructions for the lift covers most of the install. On Eddies Project-JK site there are write ups for setting up control arms, installing extended brake lines and a list of all the torque specs.

Nothing special on the sway links. You install new ones on the rear with the lift and take the old ones off the rear and put them on the front.

-I did the work by myself over two weekends. Wheels, brakes and fenders one weekend and the lift over a 4 day weekend. But that was not a sunrise to sunset effort.
-PB blaster all the nuts and bolts on the jeep the day before.
-Make sure you have jackstands tall enough to hold the frame up with the suspension drooped.
-Jackstands to hold the axle as you work on it.
-EVO draglink flip? 13/16" drill bit. Dont forget, was hard to find in my area. My wife brought back a 3/16" when I asked her o grab one.
-Torque wrench(s) to hit all your numbers.
-Paint pen to mark all you bolts when you put it back together. Also helps to keep track of what has been torqued back.
-The instructions make it seem like you torque the suspension bolts when it is drooped, it should be done at ride height.
Click to expand...

Thanks for all of the info...I am not too mechanically inclined lol I may have to take it some where to be installed since this is my only vehicle and daily driver [emoji16]seems pretty straight forward though. Actually would love to give it a shot on my own. Would need it to get to work though [emoji53]


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MericaMade

MericaMade

Active Member
Quick question I installed my kit this weekend.

What are the starting point measurements for the rear upper arms?
 
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